I just put in a new cam and i'm putting in a new timing chain....
The gears are probably less than 2 degrees off, and the chain doesn't seem as tight as it should be ( although I don't really know since I've never done it before), its a cloyes double roller.

Is this 2 degree thing a big problem, and why does the chain seem loose..

P.S. when o was pulling off the crank sprocket (for the second time) i sorta screwed up the threads in the crank...so i had to tap the crank and get a different bolt....that couple minute thing i had planned to do after school had suddenly turned into a couple hour thing

It should be tight, I had to fight to get mine on. But I also left mine at 0deg.

k...i have the marks just about exactly right, and the chain is a bit tighter. When you move the chain (into the center or outward) it moves like maybe .5cm.
Am I good to go now or should it be tighter?

You DID change BOTH GEARS?
Nah it should be really taught
AND lined at dot to dot.
You may have SOME how created a situation where engine won't start, as something is off.

It happened to the shop that once did my timing chain.
I'd make sure you have everything position in correct postion.
Really from what I know there isn't any chain for a 60* that can be assembled advanced or retarded
I use the cheapest 60* chains & they were always dot to dot.
V-8s chain can be altered up or down or right on.

ked85, cloyes can be advanced/retarted 2 degrees.

My chain wont budge a bit.

did you need some kind of tool to get the chain that tight....i thought i was gonna cut holes in my hand from the cam sprocket.

The less than .5 cm of movement comes from the side to side motion where that thing between the sprockets used to be.

The dots are lined up right, through 2 full rotations so...

THANKS FOR THE EDUCATION!
Wish I knew that
If I bought one, I'd have advanced it the 2*

So I found that I have the crank sprocket on so it is retarded 2 degrees, what problems would I have with this if I didn't move the sprocket onto the 0 degree keyway and can I fix it with the ditributor?

You want to advance.
ALL FACTORY GM cams were designed to be "retarded" for low end torque & lower emissions.
So told me by the TRW engineer that designed my "1970 Corvette/Z-28 350 LT-1" from their parts catalog.

so just advance it with the distributor or do I need to move the sprocket?

SINCE the sprocket is accessible,
it is advisable to adjust the gear.
Then by being at 10* setting on balancer, you're running great!

yeah, i did that, thanks kinda sux tho..i had the chain cover and water pump on already, but hey might as well do it right.

The increased pep is worth the gasket set.
BESIDES the ECM may not "read" an advanced distributor timing setting very well.
At the crank (gear positioning)-NO ONE KNOWS!

Ignition timing and camshaft timing are two seperate entities.

Advancing or retarding the camshaft changes the occurance of valve events during crankshaft revolution.

Distributor, or spark advance merely changes the occurance of the ignition spark during crankshaft revolution.

you can advance the spark timing and see performance gains simply by starting the combustion process a little early. The valve events don't change, just the spark.

Watch camshaft timing on motors with big lift or fast ramp cams. Piston to valve clearance can become an issue.

I think the last time someone had to worry about factory cams & valves bumping the pistons
was maybe the 60's & EARLY to 1971 vehicles.
Think
Hemi's, ZL-1, ZL-2, 1967 Z-28, 1969 Boss 302.....
413, 406, 409, 348........

I wasn't referring to stock cams. But thanks just the same. It's actually still quite a problem with smaller L4 motors. pop a timing belt on one and you'll see