These look pretty nice too.
Forged connecting rods.
Too bad they are $1300 lol!

 

SBC 267's come with 3.5" pistons. And there are more than likely alot more performance pistons for that engine than for our V6's, retard.

Pre-1967 V8 connecting rods will work, with a little modification. But they are not as strong as Crower sportsman rods.

"According to Chevy, production V6/60 nodular iron crankshafts with 67mm main bearings are extremely durable and have performed without failure in many racing applications. Only minor modifications are required to
prepare a stock crank for competition." - not really a need for an aftermarket crank, the stock one should work fine, for even more stregnth you can get it hardened for around 200$

So basically, the engine block and heads are the main thing holding this engine back from making 400+ hp.

The Alumuminum bowtie block is stronger than the iron one... dont know about the heads yet.

And who said anything about 28psi of boost? LOL, that would be murder.

 

ok I'm sorry to say it but that was a childish remark
it seems you have a lot of bickering to do and your calling me a retard isn't that great of an option

as far as the 267
yes they have a 3.5 inch bore and I missed that one

but I guess missing something in your eyes makes me a retard.

but please if you are going to resort to name calling on the boards you might wish to stay off the boards
most anyone here doesn't take well to it.

I for one don't

other things to think about
whats the deck hight of a 267 vs the 2.8?
piston compression distance?
pin bore on the piston?
and stroke?

I am guessing that piston still wouldn't work being that the 267 uses a 3.48" stroke
but being I'm a retard just ignore that information as it is prolly incorrect.

with the 28 psi that was someone else saying it
sorry if you had that confused with a question aimed at you

I have my doubts in most of the motor
crank might be able to take it
but the rods, block, heads and most everything else I wonder about

also what is defined as competition use? 200-250hp?
that still way below your goal

 

Personally, I'm beginning to think Lee7's just jealous. With techsmurf on the hunt for an external wastegate, it looks like I'll be the first to claim a turbo 2.8 FBody. It's a freakin shame, too, since you can bet your bottom dollar if I find anything I think would help TechSmurf out, I'd be the first to PM him with the info.

You're being plain childish. *I* am the only one that really cares that I'm the first to do this, everyone else on here just wants to see it DONE, after ALL the talk that gets done about it. I'm awaiting my mandrel bends to arrive, so I can get down to the dirty work. I still have to get the chip, and injectors, too.

As for the block, the Bow Tie is one option. I've seen one turbo 2.8 that was pushing 500+ hp on the stock block (at least, I think it was stock).

There are forged pistons for the 2.8/3.1. Just use them. I'm going to end up with a 3.1 Turbo system, much like the turbo GTP of '89.

please, everyone, I'm trying to keep this sane, and use this thread for updates. Lets just all leave the bickering aside. When the turbo is actually plumbed in, then we can bicker on what needs to be done!

 

I wish I had a 2.8 F-body beater....so I could be the first one to have a turbo 2.8. Can you say electric leafblower, Optima dry-cell battery, and super-duty alternator? :lala:

 

Optima? Out of business, according to my MECP friend. He was shocked to find that out, too. They were bought out by (chills down spine) Exide!! Yep, the maker of the cheapest, lowest amperage, most re-labeled by chain stores, batteries is going to put out Optimas.

So much for Optima being a good name. I hear Rockford's making a hell of a battery, though.

 

I really dont know the exact details but...one of the guys ive seen with a prelude had done this because it gave him better times at the track...im guessing in the track since you run only high rpms and dmp the clutch at high rpm at start you wouldnt actaully need the low rpm band ....if you shift in the powerband then it would bejust fine...i guess..
(incidentally the 2003 VFR 800 Bike has VTEC on it...its a V4 just like mine ..almost same block but its injected and has VTEC...unlike other 4 cyl inline bikes mine doesnt lack the low end torque...makes me wonder why would honda put VTEC on the bike...its already waay too much power..lol)

 

sorry but still don't understand why unless he changed to non- vtec cam


if you run into him again please find out how or why



only thing I could think of is vtec is comming on too late.... but they make vtec controller for that

 

Are you serious Tom?? Well crap. Not that I had any planned use for an Optima battery....but still..

 

I will definitely ask him when i see him at the track maybe this weekend or next....he did not change to a NON VTEC cam...well according to him he just disabled or locked the high end cam profile...

I would guess probbly the VTEC engaging late could be a potential problem...

 

Well, if you want rights on the first turbo via the leafblower route (which I've already followed up on and deemed impossible, high output alternator or not.. you'd need a second alternator running 140 amps just to begin to dream of it), then I could claim first dibs based on already having a boost-producing system IN my car, roughly equivalent in output to a leafblower... in fact, when I'm done with it, I'm probably going to make it a leaf blower.. we could use one. However, a leaf blower is *not* a turbo, and has nowhere near the required boost potential to even begin to count. But if it counts to you, so be it. I've got .5 psi. I win.

Another update, I *may* be able to swap the BOV I have for a Delta II wastegate... muahahahaha... would end up replacing the BOV with a vacuum actuated unit anyway, so I'm more than willing to give it up.

 

Wellp, the BOV doesn't fit into the guy's plan, so I'm still hunting. Oh well..

On the bright side, it the exhaust planning has come to a stage where given that the material for the flanges appears (need to hit a welding shop and see if they have some 1/4" steel scrap), the custom manifold should take all of a few hours.. found a decent welder who's done some work with custom turbo manifolds.. another guy, who recently finished turbocharging a 2002 mustang v6, is coming in for some fabrication on the exhaust and oil side. I think I'm keeping the intake setup for myself.

Does anyone know the diameter/thread pitch on the oil pressure sending unit, or if there's a filter relocation kit available for our cars?

 

Ha ha...... So an electric leaf blower wouldnt make enough boost? I got one that's supposed to push 150+ mph at the peak point...wonder how much boost that'd make in a 2.5-3 in. pipe. Not that I care. I'd only be dumb enough to try that if I owned a Honda that I didn't care about.

 

The one I was looking at was rated at 215 mph, but the question lies not in how fast the air is moving, or in how much air it can move, but in how efficiently it can pressurize that air.. if you can cap off the output of that leaf blower with your hand, and it doesn't give you a run for your money in keeping your hand there, then it's pretty useless for compressing anything. On the other hand, a leaf blower isn't exactly horrible, since it is of a semi-efficient compressor design. It at least stands a chance of producing a couple psi.

The drawback stands in its 12 amp 110vac requirement.. which even with a modest 13.8 nominal voltage would require 95 amps from the car.. and that's not accounting for inverter losses.. or finding an inverter rated at 1320 watts, which in itself is a monumental task. I do retract the 140 amp alternator statement, though.. an extra 108 amp *should* suffice, with your existing unit (hopefully itself a 108) taking up the slack.

The other drawback stands being your friends laughing their butts off when they hear it under your hood.. leaf blowers are very distinct.. and they don't silence easily.

 

Oh yes....they're loud and irritating. But hey....if I had some junker Honda Civic, I wouldn't really care! I'd do everything in my ability to blow that motor up in a very cool and dramatic way. [Dream Sequence]
Why NOT throw a leaf blower on it?? And while I'm at it....hack the exhaust off....cut the hood out and make a ram air setup....remove all the weight I can....then do 6000 rpm clutch dumps all the way down the street until something fails. And if THAT doesn't work (I hear Hondas are tough)...I don't think any Honda can wishstand 7000 rpms for 10 minutes straight.
[/Dream Sequence]

 

Look up the article Sport Compact Car did on putting a ***** into the 14's.

Great stuff

 

Common guys a leaf blower.
If your gonna be ghetto scrap that and install a real piece of street home improvment high performance. 2hp shop vac would probably have some nice power adding potential. Just cut a hole in the bottem slap it on the TB run the hose to a cold air source and vroom.


But for real I want to see this going here! I was tinkering with a turbo 2.8, an old S10 engine sitting on the floor but the carb makes it hard to induct.

 

JFS&G a commercial gas powered leaf blower could effect some boost for sure.

 

***A REAL UPDATE***

[update]

The mandrel bends have been shipped. Picking up the 10' stick Friday. Boost gauge to be ordered Friday (not gonna be in stock till then)

A Pillar Pod is backordered too. I may have to ghetto-rig the boost gauge until they get it back in stock. Injectors are on their way to Rich now.

I have the weekend off. Hoping to get the exhaust done up next week.

[/update]

 

Ghetto-rigged boost gauge? I think you know naught of the concept. My current idea of a low-cost alternative to a true boost gauge, since I am doing my project in a manner as to have the lowest $$$ figure possible with success, is a autozone-style vac/boost gauge of the diagnostic variety, mounted externally.. though extra vac line could lead me to mounting it internally if I become so inclined.. still a diagnostic vac/boost gauge.

 

Ha ha ha! Hey...if it works.....

 

LOL! Wow... no, I'm going to have a 2 1/16th" gauge mounted on my A Pillar.

 

Makin it look nice and sexy eh, man?

Imagine people riding shotgun..glancing over at that little boost gauge and looking at you funny....
"Is that real?"
"Wanna see how real it is?"

 

EXACTLY!!! :sillylol: :hail:

 

Hey, it's not that I want a ghetto lookin car.. but I can't afford a triple gauge pillar pod at the moment, nor digital gauges to inhabit it.. and when I can afford it, I'll have a nice diagnostic gauge to put in my roll-out.

 

No need for a triple... Summit sells a single for $28

 

I want me a double on the A-pillar holding two Air/Fuel gauges, one per oxygen sensor.....muahaha.. I've got this running rich problem....and if something broke, like a fuel injector in one bank, that oxygen sensor would read rich while the other would read normal, so I could isolate the side!

 

Nixon, thats why I'm debating on the a/f meter. this new engine in truck runs dual O2's, this could get expensive for me.

 

Yeah,they're about $50 a piece. My Mustang runs one O2 sensor per downpipe. I would only buy one if the sensors were past the X pipe, but they're before, so each bank would give a different reading. Ford O2 sensors are freaking expensive too. My Camaro's O2 sensor was $20. The Mustang ones are $40 each...so that's $80 for the pair. Talk about a kick in the nuts.

 

Couldn't you have one A/F guage and have some sort of switch to switch between the two of them? I don't know a whole lot about aftermarket guages and such, but that's just my thoughts. Unless you want to be able to monitor both of them at the same time all the time. Just my 2 cents.

 

You know I'm not really sure...I think the O2 sensor is only a single wire connector.....maybe that COULD be done..with one of those A/B/OFF type switches.... Never thought about that.. Good idea man! Still, a dual A:F gauge setup would look very cool.

 

No, I need a triple. When I do begin to put money into this project, Boost, Fuel Pressure, and an A/F gauge are all priorities for me to make sure the motor's okay.

 

Good idea..

 

I like that swap back n forth idea. since mine wont be where its visibal while driving, I could possibly do that

Thanks for idea. Now if the guy will finish building mine....

 

http://www.ufba.org/forum/index.php?...d=3476;start=0

 

WTF?

 

It could work on a V6, snipets of important info below.
Good deal really.

"New LT1 Camaro Turbo Kit
« on: May 20, 2003, 09:09:21 pm »



Looking for a couple guys to try out 'pre-release' turbocharger kit for LT1 Camaro. Will have full factory support. Looking for before and after results, any installation issues, and testimonials. For more information please email. STSTurbos@hotmail.com"



"Re:New LT1 Camaro Turbo Kit
« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2003, 10:04:37 pm »



Prototype is black '93 Z28 with purple flames on front. Sounds like alot of you have seen or heard of the car. Car was at UVSC carshow along with a few of our trucks. Turbo mounts in rear on all our vehicles which raises some eyebrows and always draws in a few sceptics. Our system works real well and has several benefits that come from putting the turbo that far back. First is that this kit installs in about 2 hours and anybody can put it on without hacking up your ride. Second is that our turbo temps are about 500 F cooler than those on underhood applications and that means less heat put into the air charge and lower underhood temps. Plumbing charge to the front provides a very efficient intercooler without the typical pressure drop accross conventional intercoolers, Won't go into the rest right now. Prototype did pick up 14 mph in quarter mile and car ran 13.0 at this elevation at 111 mph with moderate 7 psi on street tires w/ 2.73 gears and automatic (car is totally stock other than our system). Engineer from Garrett came up last week to check out our systems and was very impressed with all aspects of the kits. Said our Camaro was one of the fastest cars he'd ridden in. Everyone is concerned about turbo lag with turbo so far back. Not the case, our system is designed to operate with turbo in this position and has hardly any lag. Will break the tires loose at about 40 mph. Have car set up to run 10 psi w/ water injection at the flip of a switch. Did dip into 12's but mostly just spins tires real bad. Just got some drag radials and ordering set of 3.73's w/ converter and shift kit. Car should hit 11's easy. Anyone interested is welcome to come by the shop. We are in Orem."

"Re:New LT1 Camaro Turbo Kit
« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2003, 09:28:49 pm »



Cool we got lots of interest in the Turbo Camaro. It is way fun to drive. You guys can call me and come by the shop if you'd like. We are just off 8th north and the freeway in Orem. Like to see some of your stuff.

As far as big time lag, you have to understand how turbos work (not that you don't know how they work) but there are lots of things going on besides just hot exhaust going real fast. First of all, if you took a turbo off of a conventional system and put it in the back you would definately have big time lag, mainly because the turbo is sized for the volume of exhaust gas produced by a specific engine size at a specific exhaust gas temperature. Our turbos are sized to operate with a different exhaust temperature (about 500F cooler) So, turbo housings are smaller - which increases the velocity of the gases. Cooler gases are denser-driving the turbine wheel more efficiently. Extreme example would be trying to drive a fan with air under vacuum (real thin) with lots of slippage vs. driving a fan with a water stream (real thick) with very little slippage. Or, imagine an airplane propellor (prop pushing air is alot like air pushing prop). At 20,000 feet the propellor is not nearly as efficient and has to spin lots faster to produce the same results that it more efficiently produces at sea level. Geez, what was the question again?

As far as long intake tube, if you look at the length of tubing it takes to go from turbo down and around in front of the radiator and through a large intercooler then back around and up to the throttle body, it isn't much different than our systems. You also need to look at the volume of air produced by an engine making lots of horsepower. Good generic formula is HP/10=Lbs/Min of air. So an engine making 400 HP moves about 40 pounds of air per minute. When you send that much air down a 2 1/2" pipe it takes a millisecond for it to travel 10 feet.

Hope that answered some questions. Sorry to bore you with the essay. Speed safely!

Rick @ STS 801-979-6554"

"Re:New LT1 Camaro Turbo Kit
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2003, 07:23:18 pm »



Hey Guys, I'll try to answer a few more questions. We are usually at shop 8-5or6 but won't be back in till Tues.

As far as exhaust goes, stock works great. We can work with aftermarket if we need to. Our systems don't run mufflers. Your car will be real quiet if you combine the turbo with a "flowmaster" type muffler - you will end up with a car that sounds stock.

As far as clearance goes, all tubing is up as high or higher than OE equipment - which isn't overly high to begin with.

As far as LS1, we have looked at 1 car to get an idea of routing. If there are several guys that want that kit we could build it, but we would probably need deposits in order to bump that kit ahead of a few others that are scheduled to be built first.

Have a 95 coming in for a kit next week.

Kit price is $3500. We will probably do 2 or maybe 3 prerelease kits at about $2300.

Talk to you guys later, Rick"

http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html

 

But still a gas powered toro leaf blower with a variable speed trigger that is ran off the O2 sensor [meaning it would give as much air as the car can handle until it reads lean automaticaly] spend about $400 doing a real nice job and be mr hoopty craft 2004.

or spend about $2300 and get a test system for your V6 from these guys.

Matt

 

That setup looks really sweet, but my only concern about it would be that you can no longer run a muffler and how can you have an air filter back there and continue to use the car as a daily driver (rain) or would it be strictly a race car, which is fine with me, but those questions just came to my mind. I didn't get a chance to read the link you posted yet, so perhaps they are answered in there.

 

Here you can learn a little background on turbos....

I just read through that a bit, and in case there are any novice turbo people (like myself) that want to gain a basic understanding, that's a good place to start!

 

Whoa....

 

glad to see someone actually doing this...

 

Thats what I wanna know

 

Well crap, there ya guys go now who has the $$$$ to get it?
Only problems I see are the intake duct and the feed tube. Duct isnt a problem at all but would need to be fitted NOT A PROBLEM Feed tube would have to be reduced in size for ground clearance and brake/fuel lines would need to be covered in a heat shield probably $50 of heat tape would do it.

FREAKING UNIVERSAL 3-4th gen TURBO SETUP!


EDIT: No muffler needed, the extra pipe (feed tube) reduces the sound big time, cat converter could be retained since its not in the way. The air cleaner isnt a biggie, they have half covers for that type of filter that would keep 90% of moisture out plus what did get in would evaporate before it even got close to the engine.
All problems solved someone buy the kit.

 

Hmmm... Well if the motor can take it I might

 

i love howstuffworks.com i learn so much

 

Two things wrong with the fu(ked up turbo setup pictured above-

1st off: The boost pressure compressed in that looooooooong tube from rear to front would cause such a drop in boost pressure its not funny.

2nd- If I knew where that guy lives or parks his car, with the help of a battery powered sawzall, that turbo would be in the wrong hands in about 3 minutes

Terrible setup.

As for the leaf blower idea- I once put a smog pump off of and old buick onto a VW motor and geared up the pulley slightly- made about 3-5 psi boost and ran off the crank via fan belt. It was genious

 

You read my mind on number 2. The boost pressure would just take a bit longer to come up, vs. having the turbo mounted up front. I don't think it'd really cause a drop in PSI. Just increase lag.

 

Shouldn't be a problem for a T5 owner should it? I mean you launch at a certain RPM (say @ the 3000RPM) getting the turbo spinning and boosting. Is it really that bad? seems to me better than nothing.

 

If they can get it to show some performance on a LT1.
It should be plenty on a 2.8

Matt

a easier trick is the drive shaft swap. Finda sweet ride and 4 quick bolts and you got a new shiny drive shaft. Much quieter than hacking up some exhaust work.

Put me down for a carbon fiber one.