Front brake hose or line?
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Front brake hose or line?
Recently I got my car inspected by a friend of ours (I helped him do the inspection) and my driver side brake hose looks to be cracking on the outside. I'm referring to that about 5 inch long piece that connects to the caliper inside the wheel well.
I am not sure what I am asking for at the auto parts store. I don't need a brake line becuase that would be the entire line correct? What is that piece called? And if anyone has a part number that would be awesome!!
Thanks in advance. If pictures are needed and you don't understand let me know and I will snap one.
Edit: And since I'm going to have to bleed the brakes I'm going to replace the other side as well.
I am not sure what I am asking for at the auto parts store. I don't need a brake line becuase that would be the entire line correct? What is that piece called? And if anyone has a part number that would be awesome!!
Thanks in advance. If pictures are needed and you don't understand let me know and I will snap one.
Edit: And since I'm going to have to bleed the brakes I'm going to replace the other side as well.
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Re: Front brake hose or line?
Originally posted by WWasem
Recently I got my car inspected by a friend of ours (I helped him do the inspection) and my driver side brake hose looks to be cracking on the outside. I'm referring to that about 5 inch long piece that connects to the caliper inside the wheel well.
I am not sure what I am asking for at the auto parts store. I don't need a brake line becuase that would be the entire line correct? What is that piece called? And if anyone has a part number that would be awesome!!
Thanks in advance. If pictures are needed and you don't understand let me know and I will snap one.
Edit: And since I'm going to have to bleed the brakes I'm going to replace the other side as well.
Recently I got my car inspected by a friend of ours (I helped him do the inspection) and my driver side brake hose looks to be cracking on the outside. I'm referring to that about 5 inch long piece that connects to the caliper inside the wheel well.
I am not sure what I am asking for at the auto parts store. I don't need a brake line becuase that would be the entire line correct? What is that piece called? And if anyone has a part number that would be awesome!!
Thanks in advance. If pictures are needed and you don't understand let me know and I will snap one.
Edit: And since I'm going to have to bleed the brakes I'm going to replace the other side as well.
RBob.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 581
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From: Leesburg, VA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: 700R4
The rubber ones cost more? I replaced mine with the Earl's lines and I thought I could sense better braking but that is the seat of the pants meter. At that same time I had replaced the rear shoes and front pads so that could have been it too. Earl's does claim on the back of the package that on their test vehicle that they did stop quicker. The braided lines are less likely to swell or expand like traditional rubber hoses can.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: The Nest
Car: 1985 GMC Jimmy/1998 Chevy Malibu
Engine: 3.2L turbo Hybrid/bone stock 3100
Transmission: T-5 soon to be 700R4/4T40E
I refer to these hoses as "flex hoses" In this case "Front flex hoses", but if you say anything remotely close to describing what it is, I would hope that the person behind the counter would know what you are talking about. 
I used front braided hoses on my Skyhawk a while ago, and I did notice an improvement in pedal feel and more stable/consistant braking.
I used front braided hoses on my Skyhawk a while ago, and I did notice an improvement in pedal feel and more stable/consistant braking.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
where could I go about finding these Earls lines? Any specific auto parts store? The rubber hoses are like anywhere rom 15-33 bucks as far as I saw on carparts.com.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
i paid $6 and some change for each one of mine...
3rdgens have 3 flex lines... 2 to the front wheels, one to the back axle..
if one looks bad, its probly a good idea to replace them all.... you have to bleed the brakes anyway.....
3rdgens have 3 flex lines... 2 to the front wheels, one to the back axle..
if one looks bad, its probly a good idea to replace them all.... you have to bleed the brakes anyway.....
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 830
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
I found them on summit.com with the P/N EAR-28A180. They look really nice so I went ahead and ordered myself a set! Thanks again!!
Edit: I will be sure to check for the "seat-of-the-pants" difference in braking when I get them installed.
Edit: I will be sure to check for the "seat-of-the-pants" difference in braking when I get them installed.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
See if you can find a pair of these at the local parts store; I paid $7 or $8 for a package of two. They were made by Lisle; could probably find them online or something, too. Part # is 22850, and they're not gray, they're red:
<a href="http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/tuneups/tuneup.htm#22850" target="newwin"><IMG src="http://www.lislecorp.com/images/specialty/catalog/tuneup/22850l.gif"></a>
It'll help keep you from draining out the master cylinder when you unhook the hose from the caliper.
[edit] Damn I'm getting rusty; took me twice to make that picture clickable! 
<a href="http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/tuneups/tuneup.htm#22850" target="newwin"><IMG src="http://www.lislecorp.com/images/specialty/catalog/tuneup/22850l.gif"></a>
It'll help keep you from draining out the master cylinder when you unhook the hose from the caliper.
Originally posted by TomP
We should have ALL replaced our front brake hoses at least once by now!!!
A lot of things kill hoses... heat, stress, mileage, but one thing our cars can't escape is AGE. Rubber deteriorates no matter what.
Change both front brake hoses. Be sure to pick up the "crush washers"- 2 copper washers for each hose. The hose ends at the caliper have metal rings on each side, as does the caliper; these rings "bite" into the copper and seal off the connection.
Why change both? 1, safety. 2, both are old. 3, you might fix the one side, and then have the same problem on the other side.
Tip Sheet!
1. Do one side at a time.
2. Soak the hard-line-to-brake-hose nut (12mm) with a penetrant like Liquid Wrench.
2a. Compress the caliper piston as if you were doing a brake job.
[edit!! 2a was part of step 4- that was a mistake. Gotta compress the piston -before- you do step 3!! Otherwise it won't compress!]
3. Use hose-crimpers, or a pair of vise grips, to squeeze the hose shut. Squeeze it shut as close as possible to the hard-line connection.
4. Unbolt the caliper from the car, and Undo the hose from the caliper. (note the way the crush washers are assembled around the banjo bolt (11mm) and fitting.) Install the new hose to the new caliper.
5. Install the caliper/new hose to the car. Make sure you insert the "middle" fitting properly into the strut bracket; it only fits one way. Don't "twist" the hose. Most hoses have a painted line down one side to make sure you don't twist the hose as you install it (twisting=stress=hose failure).
6. Break the connection between the old hose and the hard line. Use a backup wrench on the hose fitting so you don't mess up the hard line.
7. Be quick! Loosen the tube nut all the way and remove the old hose, let it fall to the newspaper. Thread the new hose onto the hard line. Brake fluid will pour out as you do this, so be quick! (Thus the reason for doing this step last.)
8. Tighten the connection up. Bleed that side.
9. Make sure you torque the caliper back to spec.
10. Remember that the front brakes are served by the half of the master cylinder reservoir that's CLOSEST to the FIREWALL. If you think you're running low on fluid, check the correct (rearmost) section of the reservoir!! If you get air in the system you're going to go thru hell.
We should have ALL replaced our front brake hoses at least once by now!!!
A lot of things kill hoses... heat, stress, mileage, but one thing our cars can't escape is AGE. Rubber deteriorates no matter what.
Change both front brake hoses. Be sure to pick up the "crush washers"- 2 copper washers for each hose. The hose ends at the caliper have metal rings on each side, as does the caliper; these rings "bite" into the copper and seal off the connection.
Why change both? 1, safety. 2, both are old. 3, you might fix the one side, and then have the same problem on the other side.
Tip Sheet!
1. Do one side at a time.
2. Soak the hard-line-to-brake-hose nut (12mm) with a penetrant like Liquid Wrench.
2a. Compress the caliper piston as if you were doing a brake job.
[edit!! 2a was part of step 4- that was a mistake. Gotta compress the piston -before- you do step 3!! Otherwise it won't compress!]
3. Use hose-crimpers, or a pair of vise grips, to squeeze the hose shut. Squeeze it shut as close as possible to the hard-line connection.
4. Unbolt the caliper from the car, and Undo the hose from the caliper. (note the way the crush washers are assembled around the banjo bolt (11mm) and fitting.) Install the new hose to the new caliper.
5. Install the caliper/new hose to the car. Make sure you insert the "middle" fitting properly into the strut bracket; it only fits one way. Don't "twist" the hose. Most hoses have a painted line down one side to make sure you don't twist the hose as you install it (twisting=stress=hose failure).
6. Break the connection between the old hose and the hard line. Use a backup wrench on the hose fitting so you don't mess up the hard line.
7. Be quick! Loosen the tube nut all the way and remove the old hose, let it fall to the newspaper. Thread the new hose onto the hard line. Brake fluid will pour out as you do this, so be quick! (Thus the reason for doing this step last.)
8. Tighten the connection up. Bleed that side.
9. Make sure you torque the caliper back to spec.
10. Remember that the front brakes are served by the half of the master cylinder reservoir that's CLOSEST to the FIREWALL. If you think you're running low on fluid, check the correct (rearmost) section of the reservoir!! If you get air in the system you're going to go thru hell.
Last edited by TomP; Jul 31, 2003 at 02:59 PM.
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I replaced my front lines not too long ago.
lines are 20 something a pop, and you might want to do both at the same time, for equailtys' sake. Equal pressure on both sides.
Took me about 45 minutes to do both sides. Most of it was getting the tires off!
lines are 20 something a pop, and you might want to do both at the same time, for equailtys' sake. Equal pressure on both sides.
Took me about 45 minutes to do both sides. Most of it was getting the tires off!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
I got my Earl's hyperfirm lines installed!! Wow what a difference in braking! I replaced the pads and such not too long ago so I didn't have to do that job, which would have been easy since i took the rotors off!! 
But none the less I am very pleased with the performance of these new lines.
My brake now feels much more firm and responsive. Before it felt "mushy" for lack of better words. I highly recommend these to anyone replacing their brake lines.
TomP - Thanks a lot for that article you posted! Very helpful!!
I'm going to snap some pictures of the new lines when I get a chance!
:hail:
But none the less I am very pleased with the performance of these new lines.My brake now feels much more firm and responsive. Before it felt "mushy" for lack of better words. I highly recommend these to anyone replacing their brake lines.
TomP - Thanks a lot for that article you posted! Very helpful!!
I'm going to snap some pictures of the new lines when I get a chance!
:hail:
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,937
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Make sure you out the clip back in that goes by the strut mine fell out and it rubbed against something and it rubbed down and put a hole in it and i lost my brakes at least i was in the drivethrough line. If it was 5 mins erler i woulds been screwed i was havbing fun on the freeway at 2 am.
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