Yes it is me again.

Two issues this time it appears.

One, my alternator is apparently NOT strong enough when the AC is running. Its the um...78 Amp one I beleive for the 84 2.8L firebird. My question is this...What other high output amps can be used on this car? It is a 1984 2.8L firebird. No amps, no neon, nothing other then AC that seems to be robbing the power.
And yes, I see my voltage slowly drops to about 12.3V when at (around 550RPM) idle for stop lights with the AC on. With the AC off it is (around 900RPM) idle with 13.3V.

Second, when I take fast left hand turns, my oil pressure drops off and the car stalls...Are there not suppose to be baffles in the oil pan to prevent that? Does anyone make an after market pan to stop that?

 

Think you can use a 110 amp alternator, as far as the oil goes, no clue.

 

Not sure on them fangled cc carbs, but I believe you should have a dashpot to raise the rpms at idle when the a/c is switched on. It will mechanically raise teh idle by pushing on the throttle lever.

As fas as the erl pan goes, stop taking fast left had turns for now, check the erl level, and no baffles. You might be able to find an aftermarket universal kist for baffles or widage tray to help it a little. Maybe even replace the sender.

 

Okay so I should be able to use the same 110 alternator that the fiero uses right? My housemate has a fiero thats how I know they have a 110

As to the oil, the fast turns means anything over 10 mph. So I cant stop taking them.....Beh on the baffles...have to keep looking for a universil kit then...

Ill check the dashpots, I know there are 2 of them, vacumm contriolled I think. But I know I need an all over carb rebuild...jus cant get the bugger OFF the car...whoever said they needed 135ft/lbs of torque in the GM manual is a twit...

Opps forgot to add, I have been checking the oil....Replced the sender when I got the car as it was bad, no oil pressure readings at all....and I am only a half quart low...so it shouldnt be the level.

 

Well for the Alt. the best n cheapest route is the AutoZone 108 AMP upgrade Alt. for our cars. But the case is wron and you must spin the back plate. Don't worry, just be careful and only pry it apart just enough to spin the case and the brushes wont fall out.

Good part is Autozone is dumb and doesn't do it for you and will keep replacing it until you get it right. I have done it many times in the past but when I forst got mine I had to do it twice but when my Alt. died a few months ago, it was a one shot deal.

Just gotta barley get it apart enough to spin the back case so the stuff lines up right.

In the old days they would do that for you.

Its the best as its super cheap. Anything bigger than the 108 amper is $150+ the 108 is $60.

It sounds more like a fuel pick up issue than oil pressure. It can not drop off that fast, unles you talking a long lazy sharp curve for a min or two. mine under a 1/4 of a tank will hick-up witha fast left turn.

Sounds gas related, not oil. ?

Matt

 

Actually, check your float in the carb... if your fuel is sloshing from the bowl, then your engine will starve, and stall.

 

If you are driving the car hard into corners ALL THE TIME, then you should overfill the oil pan by 1/2 quart max. At the least, keep it on the full mark. Oil pan is cavitating and oil pump is starving. Overfilling it slightly will help prevent this. I run mine 1/4-1/2 quart overfilled always because of the g's I pull.

As for the stalling- this is unrelated to the oil- It definately is a fuel starvation thing. Now whether it is the floatbowl problem (that Doward suggested) or its a fuel cell cavitation only on 1/4 tank or less mostly (mine will cavitate at just under 1/2 tank with the very hard g's I pull- 1.07g's). Fill the tank, if it still persists, then its the carb.

 

Well I am not really pulling Gs but I BET its the carb...miserable thing needs a rebuild, and I dont have the 400$ for it right now, guess its something I have to live with.

And I was figuring oil related as I see the oil pressure drop, and it happens on a full tank as well as 1/4 of a tank...so I was ruling out the carb too, ah well.

Need to find a REAL carb mechanic in Sacramento, though they dont seem to exist...

 

aren't cards considered taboo in Cali, ya know, all that smog & crap they put in the air good luck on that carb, ever though t about buying the rttenchester book & rebuild it yourself?

 

Heh I had thought about that, but when I tried to get a carb off from a PickNPull junkyard...well lets say it wasnt fun, and I could not even get the 4 torx/hex/allen <Whatever they are> bolts to break free...you know, the ones that hold down the carb to the intake.

Was a hour or more wasted :/
Wonder how they manage to get em off at the shops..beh I need a second car to put this one up for a week to work on it.