don't know if this one's come up yet, do remember once seeing something or another about using a 5.0's system, and it adapts very well and easily, but here's another one i saw on hawks.

NOS (no, not naaas, the real deal, NOS)

as the link shows, apparently good for 2.8's and 3.4L systems, 600 bux 100 horsepower reliably (150 wouldn't try, i'd blow my motor right up) , doesn't seem like a bad deal, might have to do that instead of wheels....neway, just handed stuff out.

 

Hmmm. Im kinda worried about it bein for 85-88, as I have a 92 3.1, do you think it'd matter?

 

Could be only for MAF cars.

Matt

 

Yep, I've given that part number out before... I never understood why you'd convert a kit for another car, when NOS already made a kit for our motors. But supposedly the other kit was cheaper...

 

yeh Tom,
i think the other kit was definately cheaper, would the MAF system a have much affect w/ the way the fuel sylonoids (sp) would be actuated or anything, especially since the nitrous plate is mounted aft the MAF sensor. Cause the way i'd picture it, arming the system and firing the nitrous sylenoid would also activate the fuel sylenoid so that pressure is increased in the fuel system so your engine doesn't run lean and fry pistons and this would mean that nothing would change w/ the MAf system, so i'm confused on the why question myself, best bet i guess would be to call NOS and ask em.

 

But when ya hi the NOS the car is gonna suck more air so the MAF would have some notice???

 

If it's a wet system, it shouldn't really matter for the MAF... the gas is inserted with the 'air' (N2O)

If it's a dry system, I'd definetly advise some sort of fuel metering, for when the nitrous is activated!

 

hhmmm, boost a 150ish horsepower car to as much as 300hp...doesn't seem to healthy for the daily driver but really cool. I wonder how much metal would come through my new hood!!!

 

The one for our cars is a dry system with a return line cut off thingy ma bob. That blocks of the return line and raises the fuel pressure when ya hit the button. I just assume it for MAF only.

That guy who use to post had his stock 2.8 on a 100 shot for like 5 years with a 5.0 ruststang kit.

Matt

 

according to the site, the lil' dry shot is good for a 100-150 hp adjustable. If you're running 100 hp or stock internals can be used, w/o any problems so that puts ya at 235-240 hp. if you crank it up to 140-150hp shot, then you should look into modified internals, cause it'll break a stock motor, an that'd put your output to 280-300hp, not bad off a lil v6, and good for 13 second times.

 

When do you actually hit the button for nitrous. Say your running a quarter mile...

Do you hit it once you hit overdirve? what gear do you race in? DD D 2 1??? Do you keep the petal down? How does it work? Is it like the movies where you hit it when your doing speeds of 85mph (where my guage stops)???

 

You'd never reach overdrive at the racetrack; if you did, it's much longer then a 1/4 mile!

A dry shot is much safer then a wet shot for our fuel injected cars; our intakes are dry, and only meant to flow air. Wet shots can cause fuel to puddle inside the plenum, and if there's any backfire, your plenum will blow sky-high. Wet shots are better suited to carb'd or TBI injected cars- unless you're doing direct port injection into the runners, which I doubt any of us would put the cash up for on a v6.

The safest way to activate a nitrous system is by using a microswitch placed on the throttle linkage. Adjust the microswitch bracket so that the linkage closes the switch ONLY at wide-open-throttle. The "push-to-go" button is dangerous, because if you're not at WOT, you can scatter your motor.

If you run a manual trans, you should install a rev-limiter in case you miss a shift. You might also want to install a rev-limiter with an automatic trans; in case your trans ever blows, you don't want to be replacing the motor along with it.

The MAF would have a bit of a fit with the extra air flow, BUT, our computers go into PE (power enrichment mode, thanks GlennL98TA) when the TPS voltage is high enough. PE mode changes the car to run in open loop mode, and it doesn't check the oxygen sensor anymore. So basically you're going to run a bit rich- which is great, because when you run lean, that's how you burn a piston. (Burning a piston means melting through the center!)

And to further avoid burning a piston, you should also install a fuel pressure gauge. When you're on the juice, if you notice the fuel pressure dip suddenly, shut the motor down! They also sell fuel pressure safety switches that will kill the engine if fuel pressure drops to an unsafe level for the motor... yet another good idea. It'd also be a good idea to only install a nitrous system on a fuel pump that's working at it's best. A dying fuel pump will slowly drop pressure until the car doesn't run anymore... ex, your pump might be dying and it might be only running at 33 PSI, but the car runs fine.

So in my opinion, the safest system would be:

1. Dry shot of nitrous
2. Rev limiter
3. "System armed" toggle switch
4. "System activated" WOT microswitch on throttle linkage
5. Fuel pressure gauge
6. Fuel pressure safety switch

 

TomP, Where an you get all of these things and about how much would it cost? I might decide to do this when I rebuild my 2.8.

 

http://www.holley.com/nosnitrous/index.html for part information

Take those parts, put a "NOS-" in front of them, and look up prices at http://www.summitracing.com .

 

rebuild it with some firged pistons and throw a 150 shot at it (stock motors already have forged connecting rods, and 300hp is not going to hurt a cast crank)

oh, and our engines already have a rev limiter TomP... or at least my 89 does.

EDIT: actually i wouldnt throw a 150 shot on your engine if you are still running stock injectors, IIRC they are either 13 or 15's, which is very small in either case.

 

would change the pistons if i was running that 150 shot, as stated before, also would think of upgrading to ford 19* injectors, that should keep ya from leaning out. I personally think the 100 shot would be nice to have, and like i said before, if he grab 235-240 hp, that's good enough to let us all run with stock 350 Tuned Ports, and to take 305 TPI motors, would be a nice enough to make people go, "wow, that was a v6?" and it'll keep imports off your back. just don't think like them, and believe you cna put a 175-200hp shot on a stock motor....hehe, watched a guy here at my school removing the heads from his lil' civic for doing just that.

 

Matt and Tom, I retract my previous statement - didn't realize the dry system increased the fp to compensate for the nitrous!

Still... given a choice of replacing a blown intake, or a set of melted pistons/block/bottom end... I'd go the intake

Tom... extremely nice setup for the nitrous listed there!

My problem with 'just run bigger injectors' is the fact that when you aren't using the nitrous, you're running rich. No good there, either...

 

a lil' rich never hurt anybody a lotta rich definatly has though so what's all this add up to?

Give to the poor


Gumby i was pretty surethere were people on the board running ford 19lbers w/o any trouble. Now to be honest i'm a little bit ignorant on the fuel injector stuff too, if we up to 19 lb inejctors instead of 13 lb like we have stock, will the computer realize the difference in injector size and then open the injectors for shorter periods of time, or will the computer have no clue, and leave the injector pulse exactly the same causing the super rich mixture? just a little curious as to how stupid/smart our lil ECMs are, also if the O2 sensor realizes that we're running excesively rich wouldn't it tell the computer to lean the mixture out anyway, causing us to run back the way we were running before? butthe 19 lbs would have the ability to flow more than the 13s when necessary, just not all the time? me feel so confused, someone straighten it out pleaze.

 

ha... nope. You'll simply run really rich, and the computer will through a code saying Running Rich (don't remember which code that was... like... 23?)

 

No kidding; I never read anything about that in my 1986 GM service manual... you sure you're not talking about the speed limiter?

 

to my knowledge we don't possess a rev limiter, this is based on my experience with the engine running well past eh, 6k once when the tranny didn't shift....that can be a scary thing, i'm sure eventually things will simply break internally, but i don't think that the computer will shut down the engine's revs. however, newer GM vehicles do come with a rev limiter, my friends 97 lumina and his mom's 03' impala won't rev past 4k unless the motors under load, if you ease on the gas nice and peaceful like all the way to 4k it still won't break through.

 

RPM limited to 6300 by the stock ECU in my '88 Camaro. I tested it out.

 

yeah, thats about where mine kicks in too.

 

huh, akward enough, wonder if the ole' 85 has the same feature, i'll have to test it out by accident some time, i hate the thought of taking it up , and it not stopping, and my new motor going bye bye. Although that would give me a reason for an Ls1 swap, huh....nevermind, i need the transportation.