I let the engine warm up.Turned car off.Disconnected the EST bypass connector.Put car in drive with brake up( per specs. in VECI).Connected timing light on number 1 plug.Turned distributor to get the base timing to 10*.Cut off car.Disconnected battery negative battery terminal for 30 seconds.Re-connected EST bypass connector.NOW.....from this point on I thought the ECM might need to go into idle re-learn mode.So I started the car and put it in drive until the cooling fan would kick in.The car cut off a couple of times before the fan kicked in.Finally, after it did, I stopped the engine for a minute and cranked it back up and let it run for another 5.I did'nt cut off that time.Any ideas what may have made it cut off? I drove it to town and felt a major difference between the 10* and the previous 4* setting.Seemed to drive fine.Its just the cutting off part that had me concerned.Anyone go thru this?........and one other thing.ALL HAIL THE MIGHTY DISTRIBUTOR WRENCH.The sockets and stuff did'nt do it for me.Got a Snap-on 15 mm distributor wrench off Ebay for $18(hehe).Any input on the cut off thingy is greatly appreciated.How about setting timing on 12*?

-Ken
3.1 V6

 

The cut-off during idle learn is normal. Sometimes they do it, sometimes they don't. As long as it is OK now, then all is well.

RBob.

 

Agree
All cars "stumble". Your engine is aged. As long as OK now, you're good to scoot.
Does the timing mark on balance "jump/jittery"?
If so engine could need a new timing chain.
Who set it at 4*?

 

Well..this engine only has about 60k on it.Its not the original engine.I had a dealer mechanic who does stuff on the side put it in.He probably did'nt set the timing just to make some fast cash.I am going to check the timing again to see if it moved any after i tightened the bolt down.I'm thinking it may have fouled the plugs after being retarded for about 3 months.I put a set in thinking that was the problem all along and even new cap and rotor button and wires.I had also put on new ignition coil and module.It will still burn the tires off the car, but I want everything to be OK on the get go.I will look around the distributor area to make sure nothing has came loose and stuff.


-Ken

 

Simply hook up tming light & shine at the timing mark.
IF the mark is jumping/jittery, the chain is probably stretched, that's what I am meaning.
Help you better?
Timing "moves" IF the distributor is not tightened fully.

 

I drove the car around for a day then re-checked the timing.It seems that te car was kinda at 12* rather than 10.Evidently, ny car did'nt like the 12* setting all that much.I reset the timing back to 10* and did the idle learn stuff over.It seems to be back to normal now and now I'm doing the gas mileage thing.I filled up on a Thursday and come Saturday, the fuel gauge is just now getting to the full mark after going 54 miles.I'm hoping it will do alot better on gas.No telling how much it was drinking on the 4* timing.After I run the car low on gas'I'll post the mileage I got from the change in timimg.ZZZZEEEEYYYYAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Ken

 

Also make sure you have the CORRECT spark plugs for your car.
Not concerned about the brand (that's your call) the wrong "heat range" can also affect the quality of the ride.
When I installed my 3.4 into my Firebird, I had one persistant problem. Engine knocking up a hill.
Ran great, but....
Eventually discovered the 3.4 had the wrong heat range plugs in there (they were ones for a 2.8).
Changed to correct plugs & that problem disappeared. Another clue for ya.