I have an 83 carbarated 2.8l can i get rit of my smog pump and egr valave?? will it mess with the computer?? Im in the middle of rebuilding the motor i threw a rod oops! thanks for the help

 

Yes, you can get rid of both. However, there's not really a point in doing it. Granted, getting rid of the smog pump will reduce engine clutter, but the smog pump has a point. It pumps fresh air into the catalytic converter to aid in the catalyst reaction and make it operate more efficiently. And the EGR system decreases emissions and increases gas mileage, and doesn't leech performance at all because at WOT, the EGR system is disabled.

You can disable the smog pump stuff without any sort of check engine light as far as I'm aware. EGR, it might throw a light, it might not. I'm not sure. It'll run fine, but you'll probably notice the car gets rougher on decelerations and it might jerk going from part throttle to no throttle.

 

i thought you got better gas milage with out the egr and when u take the smog pump off it helps ( not much but we need every thing we can get out of my 2.8) with horsepower tq>??

 

Here's my opinion on smog pumps- They cause more drag on the motor, thus causing less gas milage- less gas milage equals overall more fuel to be burned and more waste and polutants.

Take the smog pump off and the motor will have better power and better milage due to not having to turn another accessory that loads down the engine. Yes the overall exaust gases MAY be slightly more polutant AT TIMES, but overall you will burn less fuel. As long as there is a good catalytic convertor on the car (2-way, no 3-way needed) the car will burn clean.

As for the EGR? here's another B.S. product. Block it off. Ciylinder temps will be raised slightly at cruising (big deal- plus hotter cylinder tempsand exhaust gases burn more hydrocarbons anyways) but at WOT the motor is the same because the dam thing is suppose to close off at heavier throttle loads (heck, or foots are completely into these little motors always anyways because they aren't very fast) I disabled the EGR on my car here recently and have to say I definately notice a better responsive motor off the line- this motor has always had just a slight hesitation when revved- not anymore. Mind you, My car is perfect. Engine have less than 30K, and ignition is better than anyones on this board- yet the car always had a SLIGHT hestitation at first until I finally disabled the EGR altogether- Why didn't I dso that years ago, I wasted my money on at least 6 new egr's over the years.

 

Curious as to why you say you have a better ignition than anyone on the board?

 

As far as I've seen- others have SOME equal parts, not not all that I have done combined.

I ONLY run A/C Delco modules- they are the best out there(work horses)

I have customized the mount floor of the distributor for cooling the module, and my motor running temp is 172* not the 225* that evenone else reaches that cooks modules heat kills electric peformance.

I run Talyor 10.4 wires with additional Firesleeves to control heat.

I run a 53,000 volt coil- Stock is 38,000.

I run AUtolite double platinum plugs.- app43's

New distributor and pickup coil has only aprox 25k on it- less spark scatter at higher r's because the bearing are still very good.

Coil is sheilded with additonal heat wrap also.


This car is put on a scope every once in a while (aprox every 2 months to check up on things) because I have access to my neighbors shop for free. This coil "never breaks a sweat"! Runs cooler than anyone here- I guarantee it (unless you have done the same to control heat?

 

Just to put my .02 in....

I disabled the EGR on my Mustang and felt no operating differences, nothing good anyways. Cruising at part throttle got more irritating because if I let off the pedal, instead of coasting down smoothly, the car would kind of jerk and there'd be a loud rush of exhaust through the pipes, similar to the sound of an exhaust leak. No EGR made my car more prone to backfires as well.

 

The heat control mod is Very easy to do, my car also runs at 175. As far as your ignition system, i dont see how its much better. Everything you did is very easy to do and im sure someone has done more then you. Not trying to bash on you or anything.

 

Wel, no trying to argue with you. Just going to simply ask what more can be done?( and don't tell me to add a crappy MSD box-6al. They don't add anything to an igniton module car. Thats redondancy. For your info, I used to be given MSD products free from my sponsor years ago and have tried just about evey one of there products, They are only beneficial in older vehicles, and even thats questionable at times based on what other componants are run.) The plug wires and coil alone are the biggest asset. Those wires are so incredibly efficient (Lack resistence) that they easy release and deliver the full charge of the coil to the plugs will not in the least causing any heat buildup in the coil. Evem 8.8 wires still have sprak resistence that cause heat, my wires have only a 50ohm max resistence.

If you can understand this then I don't know what else to tech you- coil heat kills the level of spark provided. On hot days, and/or over long durations of driving (that can be 10mins+) the coil heats from resistence and you WILL lose some spark power.

What do you have done to run your car at 175*?

 

agood, can you take a picture of how you wrapped your coil.

I understand that heat will lower the spark. However, wouldnt wrapping it in something keep the heat it makes inside and "heat itself"? Any way to let it breath, but prevent heat back.


IMO best would be to relocate it, however then you have a longer coil wire, along with longer wires to the coil. All that would possibly kill the spark worse then letting it be on its own.

Were way off orginal subject.

I still have smog and egr on my camaro. S10 had smog removed, did cause a few issues, one being really rich smelling exhaust. Or was that the cat removed

 

No way to get a picture of the underneath of the coil. The coil is not wrapped, I said I "shielded it" (not wrapped it) with heat wrap on the underneath side with some adhesive heat wrap before I installed it into the stock bracket location. I had to squeaze it into there but it worked. Just helps guard against the heat rising off the manifold under it.

It would be best to relocate it entirely- however, I like the cleanliness of the bracket and the EGR solinoid setup. That bracket has to stay because of the other goodies on it so I just sheild the coil and replaced it into the stock location. Also didn't want to start drilling holes in the wheelwells or firewall.

 

sO SHOULD I REMOVE Y EGR AND SMOG PUMP OR NOT??

 

Personally, I say no.

agood, thanks for "visual" on coil. Kinda gives me thoughts.

 

ID leave it alone