Ok project gave showed me the pic of where the vac lines go but i was thinking, my car has no smog pump so i wanna toss the egr switch thingy and block off the egr, and toss the canister too. I know, but thanks to a friend i could basically do anything to my car and it'll get passed so inspection isnt a problem.I know i'll probably get a erg code,thats no biggie. My question is what do i do with all the vac hoses going to the egr switch thingy and the vac canister. Block em off?

 

Smog pump has nothing to do with EGR. Removal of either component will not help your power output at all. Heck, disabling EGR will hurt your highway milage... so.. why?

 

My car didn't come w/a smog pump, and evap cannisters are there for a reason. EGR block off could possibly make car run lean, but O2 sender should cpick that up.

Plus, if you ever decide to sell the car, you're gonna have to find that which was tossed.

Which is more a hassle: hooking ack up what is there, or figuring out how to remove what's there & still have engine run right?

 

egr was blocked off when i removes the plenum when i replaced the head gasket so i asume the prev owner already blocked it off and i didnt get any codes. The evap canister is beat up pretty bad and i dint see the point in replacing it since it only vents the gas tank. So My question is what do i do with all the vac hoses going to the egr switch thingy and the vac canister. Block em off?I know the obvious vac lines need to stay, like the fuel pump reg line and the brake booster etc but what about the ones going to the egr thingy and the canister?

 

I don't exactly know how to answer your question, but I do know that the smaller line coming off of the PCV vent pipe in the rear of the intake manifold connects to one of the evap canister lines. And once you get rid of the evap can, you have to find a way to plug the gas vent hose for good otherwise you can end up in a sudden explosion. The EGR switch has to stay connected so the ECM knows how much vacuum there is in the lines and can adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. From what I have read about what you experienced when you removed the EGR/plenum pipe, you should have no problems if you remove the EGR valve, since it probably no longer works anyways. You just have to find a way to cap the extra vacuum line and to block off the exhaust manifold connection.

Basically I am saying to keep the switch, lose the valve, and use your own judgement for the EEC canister.

 

ok, if I get the jist of this I will state what I have to say, take as you will...

1. The EGR actually helps the engine on a multitude of levels.
It lowers the combustion temp to aid in prevention of detonation.
It increases fuel mileage
It increases power by helping the overal stability of the A/F
Yes it can be a pain, but once working correctly, it's a big overall help

2. As far as removing vac lines, they are there for a reason. Yes you can "reduce" them by running a sinle larger line and split off of it, but to actually block them off would not be an overal smart thing to do.
They control your fuel regulator, your MAP signal, your coal can fuel recirculation (spelling?), your timing, and a few other things.

SO, if you were dead set on reducing them, you would have 2-3 larger lines, instead of 7-8 small lines.

And keep in mind, that if your freind gets like this with too many people, he will lose his certifacation, and then your up the creek with hitting the yards for these parts.

 

If i dump the lines i have like two lines left. The egr was already disabled.The vac from the manifold does not control the fuel regualtor, the vac from the throttle body does,How the hell does the vac have anything to do with timing?Im not talking about dumping every vac line in the car, im blocking off the lines going to the egr thingy and the egr also the lines going to the evap can.To say they are there for a reason doesnt answer my question, a cat is their for a reason isnt it? So is a smog pump, doesnt stop people from removing them does it? And how many people take the hose coming from the pvc valve off there throttle body air inlet hose because they are tired of the oil mist inside there plenum and tb? Basicaly after i trash the evap can ill have a vent line from the tank left. So i either vent it someplace with a filter on it or block it off or (as i saw someone post it) Vent the gas cap. Im not about to spend money on a evap can. Much easier to delete it now that the lines are not their anyway.

 

Yeah, but what are you going to do when your buddy ends up leaving his work for some reason? We had a mechanic just up and have a stroke on us and he never went back into the business. Then you have to put all of the stuff back in again. Why don't you just leave the stuff in place so at least it looks like it is working but disable it instead? Some places, as long as you have the crap, they could care less (like the shop I go to) whether it works or not (unless you have the emissions ***** on your butt during inspection). That way you don't have any problems with it, and you don't have to maintain it because it isn't being used.

And as for the gas tank vent, why don't you tie that into that extra end of the PCV hose? It may allow for a helping hand during starting (gas vapor burns just as good as gas) and that way you can lose the can or whatever.

 

I dont think getting the car inspected will ever be a problem. The egr will still be installed, just disabled. The canister is trash. Thats a good idea you have about the vent tube! I"ll try that. I think people thought i wanted to do this because i had some stupid idea that i'd gain hp from removing this crap, that isnt the case. It's just much easier to no have all the vac lines and my canister is wrecked anyway. The egr isnt an issue because since i had the car it has been blocked. I heard its a good idea to keep the ecm plug connected to the egr thingy so i'll do that.

 

from what I remember last time I went through replacing vacc lines, there is a line that goes from top of TB that then goes to a line that is connected to the fuel pressure regulator and the smog pump.

Am not completely positive, will have to look again, but I thought there was a line to the distrib?, if not then there is not.

My point of saying the stuff is there for a reason, was this...

IF the egr was working correctly, I bet you would see better performance.
IF you want to remove the smog pump, as I did, you gain a whoping 2 HP...and have to spend 35-40 on a new serpentine belt. and find a new belt routing to make sure everything has enough surface contact not to slip.

 

My smog pump was gone when i got the car and i dont have serp belting. Just an alt and the power steering pump is all now.

 

Why is the canister "trash"? What happened to it?

Just get one from a junkyard for $10. I wouldn't disable either; in fact, I'd re-enable the EGR.

 

Yep, ditto.

I have done the EGR removal thingy and my car ran better overall with it hooked up.

I can understand why you would want to but
Ive been there, done that and put it back.

 

When i got the car everything looked good except the canister was cracked basicaly in half. The egr has been blocked off since i got he car also by the previous owner i asume. The car has always ran fine, quicker and better than i guy i used to work withs car, he has a 2.8 camaro with everything still in working order. (egr,smog pump, evap can etc) I don want to spend money (or be out in the cold weather working on the car any more) on crap i really dont need. Besides, it's all together now. The heads done, the egr, and the evap canister are still under the hood with the computer plugs plugged in, but they are dissconnected from the vacume lines. Only vac lines i have connected are the line to the tb, from the tb to the fpr and the heater control line along with the brake booster line.

 

I really didnt notice anything by blocking my egr off expect the lack of the exhaust leak.

This is my 3rd one that has blown/broke in the SAME exact spot, and I am tired of coughing up 200 bux each time one blows.

I removed the charcole canister in my s10, I did notice some rougher idle, more of a fuel smell, and when I pulled the fill cap off, I got a huge sucking noise. Installed it back, all that went away.

 

Do it right.
Ya spent the effort to make car operate correctly.
Go get the parts & ya be rewarded with a better performing vehicle.
Use 5/16" Windshield Wiper Hose for the vacuum hose routing lines fix. Big $2 investment
Go get a NEW EGR valve (only $30).
Wrecking yard parts are easy to score & I believe for 1985 ya can use the V8 TPI part for this application.
1985 MPFI (besides being a one year hose routing design) set up is the most simple of all MPFI years. And MANY V8 TPI parts will fit & work correctly. Including Corvette parts, too.

 

Too late, i already have the car together and the lines disconnected. Maybe later i'll reconnect them, but for now im done working on this car in this freezing weather.

 

Even though you're done with the job and everything, I still wouldn't attribute the guy's car being slower with him having all the smog equipment on there. It probably just needs a tuneup, or it has something else wrong. If this was smog equipment from the 70's, yeah, I could see a problem, but our stuff (as we've all said) doesn't hurt power.

 

I've said before i did'nt disable the stuff for power. I was saying my car was quicker than that guys because someone said my car will not run right without the stuff and i was giving an example that it already did. I came on here asking a simple question I know im not gaining any hp. I want to disable it because im done freezing my *** off. I do not have a garage or even a drive way like some people on here do. I'm one of the unlucky city people who have my car parked at the curb outside my house in the 28 and below degree weather we've been having.

 

I've been there (in cold) too which is why I moved out West.
Problem is generally the stuff/hoses there are left intact & connected.
Any way ya can make loops of vacuum hose & "design the air way"?
See if using the diagram helps ya figure which ones to connnect to each other.
Perhaps will get ya going.
OR spend the time in a wrecking yard or just phoning around wrecking yards for the part. I know of a Corvette yard in Philly area that should have that part ya seeking. Out by Levittown. I recall several on Route One going toward Levittown, too.

 

The way i have it now the hoses are looped back into eachother on the egr thingy. The line that went from the throttle body to the vac can i looped back in to the rubber plug that goes no place thats in the throttle body. So if i reconnect it all with a newer canister it'll be pretty easy. I know what junk yard your talking about ked, i go to the shooting rang right by it. Also, today was the first time i started the car since the head gasket blew. Took awhile to start because stupid me forgot to bleed the air out of the fuel lines It smoked a little from the head, probably from the paint on it and new gasket. Idles sooooooo smooth. Better than it did before. Tomorrow i need to adjust the timing and i want to change the oil once more just in case. thanks again to all the help guys. taking your motor apart and putting it back together and it working better than it did before gives you a good feeling. Thought i was done working out in the cold weather, turns out my sister just bought a small pu from someone who pulled the dist and didnt know how to put it back correctly. Guess who has to fix it.

 

PS
In cold weather, Brandy HELPS!
This sounds like an airline sized bottle mission.
Major congrats on the re-ignition!

 

:shrug:

I took the can outta the loop on my iroc. Now I have a dead steady idle, more stable O2's an more space now for that nitrous fuel cell



Kat