Alright, not like many people seem to care, but I'll post anyway.

Done:
3.4 block is in
smog pump bolted back up
new timing chain in
brass plugs in
new water pump on
all 3 sections on intake polished up inside best I can
egr blockoff plates made, and in place
crank pully swapped
17lb injectors in a 2.8 rail with CSI
DIY AFPR made, and on
1.6 sbc rockers in the seat
3.1 intake converted to 2.8 with CSI
TB bypass re-routed with no "loop"
ground strap made just for ign coil

Waiting on:
crane studs due to arrive thrusday
Heads, waiting on a call any time now (see previous threads by me), has crane springs, retainers, 3angle, 24 new seals, inside polished.

Need:
3.4 head gaskets
head studs
oil pressure sensor ( broke it)
more money and hours


:lala:

 

definite on the heads. sounds like a sweet setup.

 

I agree, supreme on the heads... do you have any 1/4 times of your swaps?

 

Don't loose that base manifold hardware. All of it is new, cost me like $50 from dealer. All new except for studs coming from head, didn't/couldn't remove those (If I remember correctly)

 

They can be... two nuts pops them off nicely.

 

Yes, supreme on heads.

No 1/4 times on any car I have ever drove, never raced anything in my life, except ******** drivers on the roads

Project, every nut, bolt, is bagged, labeled, and sitting on the shelf next to the radio, except the ones to the alt bracket. Every stud on the heads came out fine, even that one you had to cut off to fit the distrib in. Little grind here, little grind here, pb blast it, then vice-grip it out.

 

which one was that? Or is that the one in the back of the head?

gimme a pic plz

 

didnt take pic of it. But its the lower intake, right rear stud. The 4 cornors were studs, rest were bolts. This one has to be shorter due to the distrib its right in that area, and the base hits it.

 

pic

 

purty, but it still looks like a 6

 

damn strait, I dont need the high insurance, or gas prices of a v8.

Gas bill is enough with a s/c 6 Luckly found a station that sells 93oct at 87oct prices on mondays.

 

Send that gas station out to Los Angeles
Tell him to sell me gas on Monday at 2002 prices!
Lucky you got a decent engine bay going there!

 

Update here

Got heads finally, after 3 weeks to the date.

Got them on.

Go to bolt up left manifold, it wont bolt up, exhaust is hitting the 3.4 oil pan, and I mean just ever so slightly, but enough it wouldnt bolt up

1.6 roller rocker setup I planed on using is to wide, wont fit.

Missing some bolts

Intake is on.

I gave up tonight after 3.5 hours tonight,, will resume saturday.

 

Wont bolt up??????? wtf???? the 2.8 T-pipe, after post fire adjustment , bolted up. hrmmmmmm

1.6 rockers to wide. You have the narrow body ones, right?

How much did the head work ultimately cost?

 

what rockers did you use???

 

yep, y-pipe is about .375 to "short".

I bought proform rockers, they to wide.

Also forgot, the threads on the OPSU are different from 3.1 to 3.4. So now I gotta see if the plugs are the same, and see if the place will exchange them, or if their is a fitting I can buy to correct it.

 

the oil filter adaptor thing on the 3.4 is from the 2.8. If that helps any.

 

I noticed that, but I used the one from my old 3.4. Its shorter so that it would be easier to change the oil.

 

Fitting found, OPSU is in :rockon:

Step 1 of adjust rockers done :rockon:

Distributor stabbed

Idea thought up for exhaust, this requires bfh

3rd source found on rockers, but wont be anytime soon

Its friday, time for some :beer:

 

 

Distributor stabbed into engine block.
Yet, I am having fun figuring "OSPU" & what "fitting" it requires....

"Obscene Sexual Position Umbrella?"

 

or

Oil Pressure Sending Unit

Personally, I'd locate & drop distributor in engine, but I only have 1 vehicle w/a distributor, & wife says not to mess w/the Blazer

 

you always crack me up!!!

projects right, oil pressure sending unit.

and distrib stabbed means its in, and "hope" its in right postion. Myself and distribs dont get along!

Got stage 2 of rockers done, valve covers on, middle intake on. Still looking for coil bracket bolts

First thing in morning is fuel rail

 

I had this problem also with my swap. I ended up using the oil pan for the 2.8L on the 3.4L. It is almost the same but different enough to make a difference. Or you could bend the Y-pipe just enough to clear but not too much so you don't mess with the sealing areas for the exhaust manifolds. Did you put a cam in this motor?
And a side not, I bought the Crane Gold Racer rockers for my 3.4L. They were expense but they are narrow enough to fit in fine.

 

Interesting, others had issues w/the 3.4 erl pan & the t-pipe fitting but me, & Karl swapped his for the 2.8 pan also.

Makes me want to go

cain you give us some pics of where it's hitting???

 

Yea, havent went out yet, so I'll snap pics. I now wish I would have used the 3.1 pan, but no way in hell I'm pulling that motor again!

I wish I would have went with the crane rockers, I was trying for a cheaper alternative. Not going to happen that way Rockers cant be more then 1.28 wide I'm figuring.

Off to install fuel rail, coolent hoses, t-stat,, upper intake, belt, and anything else to make it run :lala: :lala:

 

Let me clarify...
for my platform swap situation, I have TWO 1985 vehicles.
My desire was to retain 100% of whatever I could reuse off the 2.8 engine.
My swap plan was also to be 100% lazy & not break a factory seal on the 3.4!
For my two 1985 vehicles, I HAD to reuse the 2.8 oil pans, as the original vehicle pulley systems would not "cooperate at all" with the 3.4 stuff, as my 3.4 upgrade engine was designed for 1995 vehicle platforms.
Yes, several others were able to keep the 3.4 oil pan & timing chain cover set ups & the 3.4 engine swap "worked" under their vehicle hoods.
I "recall" those people had 1987 & later F Body vehicles.
1985 (& earlier) vehicles also have the orignal 60* oil pan/timing chain design. The chain cover & pan are retained by two 8mm fine machine thread bolts. I hear, the later year 60* engines, are not adhered (pan/chain cover) together this way.
By reusing my 1985 2.8 "stuff" on the 3.4 long block, everything fit 100% easy simple under my 1985 hood.
Everything mated/matched up/fit without a problem.
I (when asked) always strongly suggest ya simply reuse everything ya can or need off your original vehicle engine & place it on the 3.4 long block.
It's the 100% lazy simple way of engineering this 2.8->3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie!

 

hey dale did you buy the narrow body centerbolt sbc rockers or the regualr sbc roller rockers?

 

614, I bought regular SBC rockers

Have only found 3 brands of SBC center bolt, non-self aligning, and they are not cheap!

vac hoses on, fuel rail on at 50psi, but leaks down fast, ac back on, tensioner back on, car on ground, upper intake on, bat hooked up, and cranks!!!:lala:

Time for food

 

Yesterday I installed my starter on my Blazer project (again!).
Charging battery for more testing & such,
Glad ya inspired me Dale!

 

Good deal, so all you have left is adjust rockers?

Mines running :lala:

Had a few setbacks.....
Distrib in 1 tooth off
1/16 inch spacer in regulator is 50psi, and to much, and floods the engine.
Think 1 or some of the injectors are leaking.

Got it running, timing set, clack clack clack worse and worse by the second

Rocker studs must be torqued in to 50psi!!! Lesson learned! 1 hour from start to back together. Talk about cranking!

Transmission is slipping I can tell. I have feeling it will soon fail.

 

your tranny or mine, err, your other one??

 

mine that had been rebuilt @1.5 years ago.

 

I'll be, again, starting Blazer next week.
I give up on valves, I'm gonna adjust the messy way, with engine running.
My Blazer is a carb'd version engine, so I need not worry about the MPFI intake "stuff" in way.
Just sucks I gotta mess up a clean painted engine.
I may lay ALOT of aluminum foil over the engine bay & do engine valve adjustment that way.
Sorry to hear about the tranny.
On my Blazer, I stuck in a tranny freshly rebuilt, hoping no worries on that detail.

 

What problems are you having with the valve adjustments?

 

My method is adjusting valves using a compression gauge to "inform me" when I have tighten valves too tight, thus keeping valve open during compresison stroke & cylinder receiving no compression which equals no start/igniting fuel in the cylinder.
That's all!
On my Blazer, I'm adjusting valves the old Chvey Small Block way, engine running.
I want my Blazer back again.
Once past this valve adjustment stage, a minor electrical glitch to be solved then reattaching the intake manifold smog stuff.
Off to CA Smog test, then, for clean air bill for registration.