wut do i need to do to change my camaro over to carburator can i get this from the junkyard i have a 3.1 v6

 

intake manifold and a carb. now your engine is carbed i dont know if the v6 fuel pump will feed the carb though. carbs run low fuel pressure and the FI pumps run high pressure so you may need to swap it. ive done the tpi to carb swap. its really simple and you can toss half the stuff under the hood after. and if your car is automatic, there are kits available to maintain your lockup converter and eliminate the computer, so you can be totally wire free. if you do kill the comp, make sure you unplug your dummy light or it will never go off

 

oh thanks, but am i going to need a NEW intake manifold, if so wut kind?

 

its up to you what kind you want. 1st you have to find one that will fit your heads. im a v8 guy and have no idea about the v6s. in the v8s there is early and late style heads so there are 2 different kind of manifolds. the difference is the 4 centerbolt holes on the manifold. all you gotta do is look around, maybe call up jegs or summit see what they offer for the motor you have. then select a carb to fit your engine size. id also ask jegs or summit tech line for help on that one. you dont want to go over kill on the carb because you will be eating gas and loosing power. i stick with holly carbs myself, some guys like the edlebrok though. both are good carbs but holly seem to pump more HP then the edlebrocks. welcome to the world of custom engines

as for getting a NEW manifold, thats also up to you. you can go to some local junkers and take a look or post a wanted ad in the classifieds. my buddy had an 84 with a carbed v6. after 84 they pretty much went to FI in most v6 modles. in the v8s, 86 was the last year and some early 87s. if you could find a v6 bird, you could take the carb and manifold right off and bolt it up to yours. but then you would need the ecu since they were computer controlled. i would get an aftermarket manifold and manual choke carb, but thats just me

 

Edelbrock makes an aftermarket manifold. You need a base (which is basically the manifold (P/N#3785) Then you have your choice of top. You can go for the stock 2 barrel (P/N#3787) or a 4 barrel top (P/N#3789). Edelbrock recomends using a 390 cfm carb (Holley #0-8007). As long as you are at it they make a matching cam for this setup (P/N#3790)
If you look these P/N# up un Summit Racing just put EDL- in front of the part numbers.

 

You will have to bypass your Anti-theft

You could prob get a low fuel pressure TBI pump for a 93 s10 2.8, and drop in the tank, as I installed a camaro pump in an s10. Basicly direct swap.

You will then need to wire up a fan system to turn your fans on as you wont have that anymore.

Blue89rs use to have that eldabrock intake forsale, not sure if he still does, along with the matching cam.

Depending on how clean your intake, TB, fuel rail, etc is, I might be willing to buy them off you after your done.

 

What CC_Hotrod said. That is the manifold that I have used for several years now with great results. Plus there is the "wow" factor when you pop your hood: "Hey cool, you've got a tunnel ram on this thing?"

I would highly recommend going with the 390cfm 4bbl Holley, don't even think about a 2bbl carb setup. Your tuning options are considerably broader if you go with the 4bbl.

If you go with this manifold, I do have one word of caution for you: tighten your bolts ONLY to the specified torque. There isn't a whole lot of extra material on the top side of the manifold, and it can crack easily if overtorqued. Yes, I am speaking from experience, but I was lucky enough to be a metalworker at the time and able to fix my stupid mistake.

 

you do not need to wire up a switch for the fans. you can maintain the stock relay and keep the fans on a thermo reading. you can also maintain your VATS system if you have one. there are tons of posts about these topics. if you do a search you will find the answers you need for maintaining the 2

 

Dont change the Fuel pump, buy an adjustable fuel pressure reg with a return line. Adjust it down to whatever the carb likes, all the exess gas gets sent back to the tank, no strain on the fuel pump at all.

 

Kontrax, I know all that stuff needs to be dealt with in some shape/form or fashion, I didnt know how, but I know it needs attention to do that.

The search button can be your friend, and sometimes its not

 

What stock relay? 90-92 fans were ECU controlled. I mean, I understand the idea of keeping the ECU in there, but it's really counter productive.. if I were switching to carb, I'd want to be able to get all that bloody stock FI wiring harness out of the engine bay... plus, does the edelbrock manifold even have provisions for a CTS? Is there a block plug in the fan relay position of the 3.1's passenger side head?

Also, 60 degree V6s don't have to worry about heads.. 82-95 RWD v6 heads are all the same style.

 

i didnt know is was a 90-92 car. i know you can do swaps and maintain the factory fans and relays so you dont need to run a switch. i was going to do the same but decided to go with a bigger fan and i like the switch panel since im running more accesories then just the fan. i also know you can keep the VATS system. ive seen it all done, just unsure of where.

speaking of switches, anyone run their lights off a switch? i want to do this since i broke the panel behind the dash while running my choke cable. now the lights cannot be turned off with sticking your hand behind the panel for support

 

smurf, 3.1's just use a pipe plug in the right rear head. So I guess a cts could be put in their if threads are same.

I'm with you, why keep only half the ecm stuff. An aftermarket fan system can be had for 20-40 bux, and alot less wiring.

 

how do u go bout bypassin the whole computer???? sounds like sumthin nice though

 

you dont bypass, you just take it out. some cars (like mine) came with a computer controlled carb which i though was pointless. when you go carbed, you can ditch the computer since it runs its own air/fuel mixture and doesnt need to computer to calculate. computers also run the sensors which set off the dummy light when they are running lean/rich. comps can be your best friend (lt1/ls1) or your worst nightmare (electronic controlled carbs) basicly if your running an aftermarket carb, there is no need for a ECU. but they are a must for FI controlled cars

 

doesnt the computer control other stuff in the car though, will it get rid of the governor wen i take this off too?

 

yes it will get rid of the gov. the comp senses the amount of air coming in the engine and calculates how much fuel to mix with. im sure youve seen the electronic FI decals on cars. the sensors, like o2 sensors, are wired into the comp and when one isnt sensing right, it will trigger the check engine light. way back when, cars didnt even have computers. just a carb sitting on a nicly cubed engine. FI came along for better economy (gas milage basicly) carbs are basicly an easier route to power and easier to work with IMO but you sacrifice gas milage in most cases. a properly tuned ECU with a nice FI system can also pump out extreme power, but it costs a lot more to build a serious FI engine then a carbed engine. ever seen how much the FI kits go for in some of these catologs like jegs and summit? 2k and more? id rather have a carbed engine and spend the 2k on a 6-71 blower

basicly it comes down to this: if you want to ditch a hell of a lot of wires and make easy power and have less clutter in your engine bay but sacrifice a little gas milege...go carbed. if you want the most gas milege you can get out of your engine and dont mind working with wires and ECU/ECMs and dont mind paying a bit more for parts, stay FI

if ive missed something or am not quite correct with the FI, please correct me

 

Back in the day i added all the crap together that it would take to go carb. It was somthing like 500-600. For that much i could get a good running 3.4 which would boost power much higher than the carb conversion.

 

3.4? pfff... the carb convert isnt expensive unless you go all new parts and such.

 

true, im going to find as much of this at the "pick n' pull" as i can. all im gunna need is a radiator, carb, and intake manifold right?

 

no need for radiator unless your going bigger on the engine size. radiators are fairly cheap anyways so you could do one if you wanted. you'll need the carb and manifold definetly. and if your auto tranny, youll need a kickdown and throttle bracket. they are cheap enough. bolt it all up, time, and crank her over and see where you are after that. sometimes there are a few misc. things youll need because you always forget about small things. your gonna have a lot of fun chasing wires

 

don't forget about the vacuum advance distributor! i'm considering trying the edlebrock setup on my car to see what it does for me. i've got almost all the parts already, mainly just lacking a AFPR w/ return line. need to rebuild the carb too probably. you need about a minimum of a 4" hood scoop too, don't you? i did some 'rough' measuring one day and that's what i came up with.

 

dont need a vacuume advance dist. really. i have one with a 700 cfm doublepumper ontop a duel plane street avenger intake. it clears the stock hood (just barely) with no air cleaner on it. but then again i have a 362 under the hood and not a v6...i would also run an msd ignition when going carb. made everything simpler for me

 

yea, the v8 manifolds are typically a little more compact than this v6 one is, unless you've got a tunnel ram or something. i've already got msd on my car so that's no worry here.