75 shot of nitrous
hypertech coil
accel wires
delco plugs
still undecided as to cap and rotor
flowmaster cat back 2.5"
exhaust cutout
underdrive crank pulley
high flow cat
CAI
timing at 8* due to nitrous
A/T
i think its a 3.42 posi rear out of a 90 formula 305 AT
and i need a guess at a time for the car with street tires and with Drag radials.

also i plan on doing some low cost stuff like wonderbar, box LCAs, box panhard stuff like that
and im undecided as to gut the cat or get high flow
and im not sure if its worth it to get a shorter belt and not use the AC or smog, if anyone has seen a gain without ac or smog, lemme know (asside from clean up the engine bay and lose some weight)

 

Is this on a 3.1? If so, depending on tune, I'll go out and say a 14.3

2.8? 14.7!

Hi flow cat > gutted cat

 

Anytime you remove drag from the crank pulley, you gain hp. That read end could have either 3.42s, 3.27s or 2.73. If its the 9-bolt, its 3.23s. Just a thought, don't use Accel wires. I had them on my car and I had problems. I switched to MSD wires and the problems went away. I would guess a time but you haven't said what motor you have or the gears.

 

Gutting the cat and leaving it hollow is actually worse. Either do a high-flow, or totally remove it and have a pipe welding in its place.

The empty cat plays with the air-flow/turbulance.

Being his screen name is "92RS" I would assume 3.1

140hp/180tq stock.

 

I think itll explode

 

I'll go with Doward's answer, but tack on a few tenths...just so you won't be dissappointed.... Sounds fun though, I'll have to get me some spray.

 

wish i had some nitrous, it would be cool to see how much a 2.8 could handle before it blew. I already have a 2.8 to try it on

 

thanks guys im really happy you guys are giving me serious answers and not tellin me to get a 3.4 or a v8 or something.

its a 2.8, but its been rebuilt andi think taken over to 3.2

ok, so its decided, highflow cat. which ones a good one and about how much od they go for?

75 shot should be totally safe on the motor right?

and the underdrive pulley is a go,
and msd wires not accel right?

 

what person would put a 2.8 in a 92 RS that doesnt make too much sense i think u mean 3.1?

 

blew up the 3.1, we had a 2.8 bored to 3.2 with 10K sittin on the shop floor, guess where that went, so it makes sense if ya know the history of it. besides, what do you think ill run?

 

not to much faster.

 

na i was asking him what he thought id run. i know there wont be much of a difference with a 3.2 sorry i think i worded it wrong.

 

3.2, eh? Exactly how much did you punch the block? How much reinforcement on the cylinder walls?

At any rate.. that depends entirely on how it was built if it were punched that far.. titanium sleeved, low 14s... anything else, high 25s coasting most of the track, once...

 

Just tell us that you had the block resleeved instead of boring it. Those cylinder walls aren't thick enough to bore and then spray.
Can you say "boom"?

 

see now its this **** that pisses me off. the guy who got the engine done,. does not know a *** damn thing about it. he TOLD us it was bored to max and rebuilt. but knowing the history of this clown, iunno. its like i ask him, did you buy the engine new or have it rebuilt, hes like iunno i just threw it in there, besides, whats the difference.

im gonna go scream at him in a half hour.

 

SO i was right the first time

 

difference between a 2.8-3.1 is the crank, not bore.

Plus 5hp and 20tq

 

Well, since you're unsure of the specs, here's the gory details.. if it's a 2.8 block with a 2.8 crank, bringing it out to a 3.2 would involve a *minimum* of a .200" overbore, which is absolutely unheard of.. normal max overbore is .060"

 

i think if its bored out to the max and u dont have forged anything sumthin is gonna blow... sorry just personal opinion no actual knowlege.

 

Forged components have nothing to do with the cylinder walls being too thin and blowing out.

 

sorrry like i said no actual knowlege...but yea the cylinder walls. but with only 10k it might be ok.

 

Milage has nothing to do with it either. 1/10 of an inch off a cylinder wall is alot. Let's say there's 1/2" of wall between each cylinder.. sounds like alot (and it probably is a little high) .. now let's look at the #1 and #3 cylinders specifically for example.. you bore the #1 cylinder .200" over.. that's 1/10" off the wall thickness all the way around.. now instead of .5" separating 1 and 3, there's only .4"... now bore #3 the same amount.. only .3" separating the two cylinders.. that's almost half of the original wall thickness gone... and as I said, I think .5" is a little high (no block laying around to measure, too lazy to search it up)... factor into this the wall thickness separating the cylinders from water jackets and the crankcase, and it's a recipe for disaster.

 

thx for educating me tech i now know more but yea ive never heard of .2 bore on a car.

 

Hopefully he's just an idiot and it's a plain-jane motor. Or a light boring. Somebody ought to tell him boring is for repair not for power.

Well, it's either blow or go. Either way, get it on video. I'd love to see.

Oh and regarding your first post....."still undecided as to cap and rotor"....come on man! It's not that hard! Lol, just get something that matches and has either copper or brass terminals. It's not rocket science!

 

like you have many avalible anyway

 

CAP AND ROTOR = MSD p/n 8430 please don't try to tell me that the 4.3 one won't fit. i have this one on my car. that p/n does say its for a 4.3 but it WILL WORK on the non-carb'd 2.8, 3.1, and 3.4s.

 

thank you, a part number was all i needed.

well i did some talking to him today, some yelling rather. and i found out some info...its a jasper rebuild.

so we are gonna call up jasper and see if they have the specs for it. if they dont, we are gonna have to find the reciept and hope they have something on there. id rather not take off the heads if i dont have to.


keep the comments coming, ill have to let ya guys know come monday or tuesday

mike

 

I highly doubt Jasper would "bore it to the max". That's just something stupid people say to make it sound better. You're probably ok....

 

If you can, with your unique combo, replace converter with a straight pipe. You will be farther ahead. A company on ebay that advertises from time to time has straight pipes for our v-6's.

 

so does most any auto parts store. Cut the cat out put the pipe in.