Car overheating
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z / 1992 Corvette
Engine: 305 TPI / LT1
Transmission: 700R4
Car overheating
My car has been over heating. Only on my way home from work, not on the way to work. (Outside temp. difference is about 20-30 degrees higher on my way home.) After driving 17-19 freeway miles (@ 60-65mph) my temp light comes on. I have plenty of coolant in the radiator & the coolant is circulating through the system. No leaks, cracked hoses ect. The coolant temp sensor was replaced about 2-3mo ago.
Also last week I had to replace my + battery cable. It was corodded almost to the starter. I would have to mess around with the cable to get it to start. And if I turned my air conditioning on shortly after starting, my ‘check engine’ light would come on. (Code 21)
If I waited 3 or 4 miles then turn the air on it was fine. No check engine’ light.
I had the carb rebuilt about 9mo ago. And tuned up about 2mo ago. Plugs looked great.
Does anyone have any idea what could make it overheat?
Also last week I had to replace my + battery cable. It was corodded almost to the starter. I would have to mess around with the cable to get it to start. And if I turned my air conditioning on shortly after starting, my ‘check engine’ light would come on. (Code 21)
If I waited 3 or 4 miles then turn the air on it was fine. No check engine’ light.
I had the carb rebuilt about 9mo ago. And tuned up about 2mo ago. Plugs looked great.
Does anyone have any idea what could make it overheat?
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,141
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From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Car: 1991 T/A - Sold (sniff) 1980 T/A Pa
Try a couple things..
1 replace the thermostat. It's cheap, takes a couple minutes.
2 Make sure there is nothing in front of the radiator
3 make sure your rad dam isn't broke or missing
4 worst case, replace your water pump. I've noticed a major difference in my stuff since I replaced my with the "high performance" one from autozone. Car stays cooler longer.
GL!
1 replace the thermostat. It's cheap, takes a couple minutes.
2 Make sure there is nothing in front of the radiator
3 make sure your rad dam isn't broke or missing
4 worst case, replace your water pump. I've noticed a major difference in my stuff since I replaced my with the "high performance" one from autozone. Car stays cooler longer.
GL!
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,965
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From: Philly
Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Is it actually hot? I had a problem with my coolant temp light comming on in my car. I checked and i had coolant. It also didnt feel all that hot to me(the upper rad hoes) turned out the coolant temp wire had a slice in it and it was touching the motor grounding it out and making the dummy light come on
I also replaced all my factory fan crap wit a hayden adjustable fan switch and a new relay. With this setup and a lower temp thermo the car runs much much cooler.
I also replaced all my factory fan crap wit a hayden adjustable fan switch and a new relay. With this setup and a lower temp thermo the car runs much much cooler.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z / 1992 Corvette
Engine: 305 TPI / LT1
Transmission: 700R4
Im replacing the t-stat now > also chking the rad cap. I got some pipe insulation @ hm depot. I read here somewhere, that there should be a gasket (don't remember if that's the term) btween the condenser & radiator.
It did't over heat driving to or from where the mechanic lives (about 15 mls). Drove freeway there & drove thru town back.
When i went to hm depot, didn't over heat. So when I got off the fway, about 1/2 ml from home, I turned the air on & the check engine lgt came on. Code 21, high voltage at TPS. Chking $ on that. But I'm not going to try & replace that myself, beyond my ability (confidance).
It did't over heat driving to or from where the mechanic lives (about 15 mls). Drove freeway there & drove thru town back.
When i went to hm depot, didn't over heat. So when I got off the fway, about 1/2 ml from home, I turned the air on & the check engine lgt came on. Code 21, high voltage at TPS. Chking $ on that. But I'm not going to try & replace that myself, beyond my ability (confidance).
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From: High plains of NM
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Run some flush through there that has oxyilic (<sp?) acid in it, it will eat all the rust and lime deposits out of your engine.
Make sure there isn't tons of leaves and junk between your raidator and condencer.
Check your thermo stat, you can do that by puting it in a pot of water on the stove, I do it to save tax payer $$$ when I work on diesel engines.
I didn't know auto zone had a high pro pump for our cars, cool I want one.
Make sure you have a radiator shroud if you ever had one to start with.
Make sure there isn't tons of leaves and junk between your raidator and condencer.
Check your thermo stat, you can do that by puting it in a pot of water on the stove, I do it to save tax payer $$$ when I work on diesel engines.
I didn't know auto zone had a high pro pump for our cars, cool I want one.
Make sure you have a radiator shroud if you ever had one to start with.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 372
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z / 1992 Corvette
Engine: 305 TPI / LT1
Transmission: 700R4
Got it fixed (I hope, drive home from wk today w\ac on will be the true test).
Replaced t-stat & chked H2O pump & hoses (good).
Replaced the TPS. Car doesn't idle too high anymore.
Thank you everyone for your help, as always it's greatly appreciated!!!
Replaced t-stat & chked H2O pump & hoses (good).
Replaced the TPS. Car doesn't idle too high anymore.
Thank you everyone for your help, as always it's greatly appreciated!!!
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