I machined my heads to take .530'' seals on both sides.
Shoud I put seals on both intake and exhaust?
I was going to get some stock replacement viton "race" valve seals. No teflon I need some thing that can sit awhile and be good as new after 6 months incase I have to go to war some time or some thing. Or even worse, go over seas to some country that has stupid laws (like the one I'm in now!!!!) and won't let me take my car and I'll have to let it sit for 1yr+ at a time before any one touches it for up to 4yr total (wecome to my h3ll ).
I'm not useing that stupid cup on the exhaust valve spring.
Or should I put new seals on the intake and put little cuts on the exhaust seals so they leak some oil and don't let the valve sieze?
I was thinking puting little slices, take out little "v" chunks of seal around where the valve seal meets the valve or both.
I know some turbo engines get ruined by seized valves, but luckly there mostly imports with little 5/16'' or less exhast valves that don't conduct heat that good.
The valves are stock SS relaped into there seats.
I'm going to get a Duel 700-1700*F EGT gauge and mount the sender before turbos so I don't unknowingly burn any thing I hope.
My V6 will make a lot of exhaust heat when the turbos go on so I have to be carefull with, well every thing. I can't leave any thing over looked or it will bit me in the a$$ later.
I wanted to make about 14psi through the mid range and back it off some on the higher RPM's down to about 10psi at 6000 after it is tuned right.
I will get forged pistons and use wide ring gaps, modified sm. jornal forged 327 rods and more before I start runing 23psi at 100% rpm's.
I don't think I can run just no seal because that will kill my O2's. If it was carbed with no O2's it wouldn't be a big deal.