Hello. I am wondering can give me some pics of 3.1 CAI made from PCV or any material.

I have started work on my car for a PCV Cai.

Just looking to ideas, I saw the article how to on this site but I believe it could be improved.

Also, Does the Airflow Sensor need to be within ___ inches of the filter element?

Once again, Hello everyone

Any comments welcome!

 

Search on CAI, alot have been made and posted.

We have an IAT (hes a 3.1 folks), it just has to be in the stream of air, no set distance. However, closer to the TB, the better.

 

Also as far as I've seen, the IAT doesn't have to be in the DIRECT stream of air.. Seeing as it's only a temperature sensor, as long as the air temperature that the sensor is exposed to is the SAME as what is going into the motor, you'll be good! I taped mine right near my air inlet and the car ran just fine. 1 or 2 degrees farenheit will not make a noticeable difference...if that sensor is that sensitive, which I doubt...

 

Yep, what he said.

Or find the TPI style intake off the 2.8 - it's the best stock one you can run!

 

Well, When I finish with the building of my CAI by the end of the weekend. I will post pics. Tell me your thoughts then.

The car has 170K and I replaced :

Air
Fuel
Cap
Rotor
PCV
Trans Flush
Rear end flush
T-Stat
Water Pump
Cooling System flush
Alignment
Tire balance
Ran 2 cans of Seafoam through gas
Ran 2 cans of Seafoam through Oil


Runs absolutely flawless. Took it from NY to Colorado. Not a single glitch.

Now will finish CAI and see how she runs. Really pulls .. Feels much stronger then alot of similar cars ive driven with the 3.1

Anything im missing here?

 

Ac Delco Spark plugs.

 

Welcome to the forums, Rio! That's a great list; glad to see you started with a tuneup! A HUGE thumbs-up for changing both the trans fluid and the rear's fluid!! You're the first guy I've ever seen who did that from the beginning! Along with the spark plugs, you might also want to:

1. New plug wires! Aftermarket = less resistance per foot of wire than stock wires. Example, Accel "Super Stock" = 3000 ohms/foot, MSD 8.5mm "Super Conductor" wires = 50 ohms/foot, stock wires = 15,000 ohms/foot! Plus, aftermarket wires are usually cheaper, check out http://www.summitracing.com for more info. To find exact part numbers using the web, go to the manufacturer's website. (Accel = mrgasket.com , MSD = msdignition.com). When you get the part number... say MSD's 8420, go to Summit and put in MSD-8420. Or ACC-accel#. Etc.

2. Check the timing with a timing light.

3. Clean out your throttle body and intake plenum and IAC motor/passageway (Idle Air Control system) with a can of "Throttle body and intake cleaner". (Carb cleaner is more harsh to the fuel injection system.)

First clean the IAC system. Motor off. Throw keys far away. Remove the throttle body hose. Disconnect the IAC sensor (uppermost passengerside of throttle body, 4-pin plug.) Remove IAC from throttle body. Hold IAC with the pointed pintle facing down, spray the cleaner at the pintle only!! Don't spray the spring or the motor itself. That's why we hold the motor with the pintle facing down, because if the cleaner dripped into the motor, it could ruin the windings.

Now that the IAC pintle is clean, clean out the IAC passageway. Look at the TB where the IAC motor was. You'll see a tiny hole. This hole runs to the front of the TB and exits at the notch on the passenger side of the front of the TB. Spray cleaner into that little hole inside the hole where the IAC motor was. (You'll see what I mean when the IAC's out.) Carbon will run out of the front of the throttle body.

When that's all clean, let it air dry (takes a minute) and screw the IAC motor back in. Reconnect it's connector. Leave the throttle body hose off, and follow the directions on the can to clean the throttle body and intake plenum- motor off, remove throttle body hose. Start engine, spray cleaner into the throttle body while working the linkage by hand. Only spray for about 20 seconds and then wait about a minute so you don't overheat the catalytic convertor. The car may stall, but work the throttle to keep it running. Be careful not to rev the motor above redline! Keep doing this until the whole can is used up.

4. Get an alignment; the car will go faster "easier" if the front wheels are straight. Also check the tire pressure since the season is changing.

5. If you love the corners, buy two sets of Energy Suspension's ENS-9-8117R - that is an end link set for our sway bars. Do the front first. It may be a pain because the center thru-bolt can rust to the center sleeve; you'll have to destroy the old ones to get 'em out. But man, what a difference! (Oh put that part # into http://www.summitracing.com or just click here: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...NS%2D9%2D8117R ) Now supposedly the local stores also carry poly end links for super cheap; you may want to check it out. Both the front bar and the rear bar will need an end link set with "2 1/2 inch sleeve length."

Past that, keep us posted on the cold air system! Do you have a Camaro or a Firebird?

 

I have a Firebird. I am almost finished with the CAI system.

Just geting the pipes together

Also.. I am wondering.. The "Canister" next to the stock air filter.. I cant recall the exact name. Its an emissions thing. If I take out just the sensor part and just lay the sensor on the ground, Is that going to mess anything up. Ive heard its fine as long as you cap the vac lines that were connected .

Also, Few other questions .

Even tho I am in NY, I get "special" inspections..

So, In light of that. Everything in relation to the emissions system can be removed.

I removed the canister, caped the ends and ran the car. Ran fine. Just wanted to double check before I go with that route.

Also, AS it sits the air sensor is laying next to the filter , Which the wires will be stripped, and it will be tapped right next to the TB basically.

The vent on the pass side valve cover is just free flowing right now.

I plan to attatch a standard breather filter to both that, and the PCV and cap the pcv system off going into the IM. Need to do more research on removing EGR and all the emissions crap and unneeded vac lines.

BTW, All those sugestions. I forgot to mention, I did do plugs with Delco's and the wires are MSDs. Alignment is coming tomorrow.

 

thats your charcoal canister, you can remove it with no ill effects , its strictly for emmisions purposes

 

I removed it and caped the vac lines just now, But.. With the sensor unplugged.. It wont rev past 4k .. it gets stumbly. with the sensor only connected. runs fine.

Can anyone explain this to me,

Also, No CEL

 

the computer is used to having it there, without it it notices the change and can't compinsate

 

Ok, So just leave it connected and dangling there?

What about when I want to remove everything and just cap the wires to clean up the engine bay a bit.

And will be removing things like EGR and all that BS thats there..

Will I need a custom computer chip to allow me to do so without having problems?

What other tips do you folks have,

Now I understand according to dale the closer to the Air sensor is to the TB the better, Correct?

Get back to me

 

well i don't know the exact protocol for removing emmisions things on a computer contrlled vehicle, and yes the closer the better

 

Well, After reading a bunch of stuff about the ASP crank pulley and the noticable performance increase and MPG increase, I have decided to go that route. I went ahead and ordered it from Summitracing.

Hope to see the type of improvements you all saw. Note the car has 170K and running mint

Note : My CAI setup is almost complete, need a few days to post pics and such. But everything is going along good.

Ive been reading for the past 5 hours on EPRom programming.. and it looks like something I can really get into. The charcoal canister sensor and EGR along with other emissions equipment can easily be turned off in a custom chip. Which will mean I will be able to remove all this equipment without any adverse affects.

Just wanted to give everyone and update.

 

One more thing.. Of the CAI setups ive seen in different pics, I really like how this one is coming along. Gets rid of the stock rubber from the TB.. Nice clean cut setup. For all of those who are scared to make something I will be offering this kit for sale for a reasonable kit. It will come to you fully assembled with instructions . Let me know your thoughts suggestions when pics get posted.

Would anyone be interested in a premade kit like this ? Let me know..

best regards,

Austin Duncan

 

I see no point in removing the charcoal canister; it doesn't hurt performance. Same thing with the EGR; EGR doesn't affect performance.

Actually the closer the air temp sensor is to the intake might confuse the sensor- it might pick up heat from the engine. The air should heat up so slightly (maybe 1/2 degree) between the air filter and the throttle body that I'd rather see the air temp sensor mounted as close to the filter as possible.

In fact the reason the MAT was called a Manifold Air Temp sensor was because on the V8's, the sensor was installed on the manifold. So when the engine heated up, the MAT gave a false reading because it was "feeling" the heat of the motor, not the heat of the incoming air.