man guys im hitting my head against the wall trying to make my bird faster. just went ot the track wen night and ran a 17.8 at 76mph and a 17.7 at 76mph. i have no idea why its running so slow. those two runs however i ran leaving it in drive. where it shifts out of first at 4600rpm. normally i manually shift it to get 5k out of first and i shift from 2 to d at 5k. i still dont know why its running so slow. i have a hypertech 160* thermo, asp crank pulley, no cat, full dynomax 2 1/2" catback, custom cai, accel 8.8mm wires, accel cap and rotor, splitfire platnums.the owner before me said the motor was rebuilt and bored .040 over with a blue racer cam. i have the receipts to prove it too. ive also took the back seats out, cleaned all extra crap out. i ran 40psi in the front tires and 35 in the rear. the onlt thing i havent touched is my timing. the car runs and drives very well. i have also adjusted my tps sensor to stock settings. when i first got this car i figured it would run low 16's. any ideas
oh yea i also put a used but good trany from an s10 pickup in it with the 200rpm stall converter a kds .500 boost valve and a b&m servo. seen no improvements

 

also i was told it had some minor head work done some porting and polishing and on the intake plentum as well. when i very first ran the car with the crappy stock int pipe and a cheap turbo muffler and two people in the car it ran a 17.7 at 77 mph. i lost the riders and practiced more and got it dropped to a 17.5 them put the dynomax catback on it and ran a 17.2 and my best ever with the car was a 17.17 at 78 mph. now i was watching a all stock newer s10 blazer wen night at the track and he ran a 16.88 at 78 mph. how is that possible i ran what i did and he ran what he did with the same trap speeds? i need to break 16's 2marrow night

 

Have you ever had it scanned to see what the running temp is/ basically I would heck the air/fuel ratio to see if you are not running lean. I don't have much more done to mine than yours (other than a fully built and lightened drivetrain) and I am running 1 1/2secs faster. My fuel pressure is bumped up though just a tad and am running a much more powerful Vette metal A/C Delco fuelpump (My neighbor diacom scanned it awile back and took care of the fuel psi for me with a different FPR (I was running lean mostly). I am shifting at about 5200 rpms. I do also have 1.52 roller rockers.

 

What elevation is your track at?

 

last time i had it on the snap-on scanner it said it was running lean. also my fuel pressure is stock. what can i do to improve. i also have my stock ign coil relocated away from the heat. and i have a set of 3.4 injectors. will they help any?

 

What are the cam specs? That seems about dead on for a 3.1 with an Auto (disreguarding cam). WHat rpm is it shifting in 1st to 2nd? And yes, Elevation is a big issue. WHat was your 60' and 1/8 mile times?

 

Personally, I think I would try popping in the 3.4 injectors (17lbs) and leave the fuel pressure alone. I have 19's, but no 17's- this is why I opted for leaving the 2.8 injectors and bumping the fuel pressure. The 19's will go on the new bigger motor.

Coil heat isn't going to hurt you at a drag strip. the car will not be running long enough to build up any heat to cause a voltage drop. So whether it is relocated or not, no matter here. Running in the heat of the day for a duration will show a very minor fatigue level on a coil in power. Wire resistence will produce heat faster than the exhaust heat in the case of drag racing. Lower wire resistence will allow a coil to breathe "in essence", it will allow a full transfer of sprak energy without resistence. As long as you run decent wires, there is no worry(Your fine with the 8.8mm) I personally run the Taylor 10.4's because I will occationally roadrace this thing for a duration on hot sunny Calif days. Those wires will make my coil sustain voltage by releasing all energy faster and resistence free causing little or no heat buildup of the coil and have a longer happier life.

 

ice on the plenum should be good for a tenth, and if you run radials dont burnout. the truck weighs way less than your car.
any way you could put a 3.4 block in or even a 3.1 crank in there?

 

A trans from an S10, huh? Well that's why the trans is shifting early. You should've swapped over the governor from your transmission... but you can pick up B&M's governor recalibration kit for about $30 from Summit, http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...tt=BMM%2D20248 . It comes with weights and springs so you can change your WOT shift point. See http://www.bmracing.com/products/kit...vRecalKit.html for more info. Also, did you reset your TV cable when you installed the new trans?

After you do the recalibration kit, you can leave the stick in 2nd as you race, and just bump it up to 3rd when ya need to. Line pressure is almost doubled in both 1st and 2nd shifter positions, so leaving it in 2nd (assuming you fix the WOT upshift) will still produce a firmer shift.

An aftermarket spark coil will help out a bit, too. Stick with your idea of relocating the stock one, and buy a non-direct-fit coil, and mount it away from the exhaust. I agree w/vsixtoy about the heat during racing (it's not an issue), but the coil will last longer with normal driving if you keep it relocated.

Also, go over my major tuneup list, and do everything that you haven't done- and that includes timing, which you said you skipped. If you have done certain things recently (like cap & rotor or plugs), then pull them, clean the contacts, regap, etc.

Hopefully when they put the cam in, they also put the valve timing "straight up" when they put the timing chain on. If you pull the cover to check it, put on a Cloyes true dual roller chain/sprocket set ($90) instead of the factory-style link.

Finally, as for running lean, since at WOT, the computer doesn't check your oxygen sensor at all, you might want to send your current injectors out to Rich Jensen at cruzinperformance.com for a good cleaning. Or, send him a set of junkyard squirters if you need to drive your car during the week.

You could also perform a fuel pump FLOW (not pressure) test, but I'd assume if your pump has decent pressure, then it's also flowing what it should.

 

the cam spects are .442 and .443 lift and 204,214 duration. its a blue racer cam. u can get them at advance auto. i was also told when it had all these (mods) done it had a new double roller chain put in. it only has about 60,000 on the rebuilt motor. when i leave it in drive or od it shifts from 1st to 2nd at about 4600 and 2 nd to 3rd at about 5000. when i manualy shift i can get about 48-4900 out of first before it shifts to second and 5k out of 2nd to drive. it does shiift good and fast under wot though. i dont do a burnout i drive around the water box. im not sure how they set the valve timing though. i did have an aftermarket accel coil in there. the car ate two of them. thats why i have a stocker back in there. when i save money again i think i want to get a mallory. i havent touched my timing since i have owned it which has been 3 years. what should it be if i check it. can i advance it some? im gonna start playing more because its comming off the road soon for winter anyways. also i got a complete 94 3.4 from a firebird with only 94,000 mi on it for free. the only problem with it is it has a bad lobe on the cam causing a dead cylender.

 

swap the block use your current cam

 

yea, definately put your cam in the 3.4. unless you don't want the 3.4...send it to me! lol. do you run 93 octane gas? if not, run it and set your timing as high as you can without getting spark knock (detonation). with any cam bigger than stock, you NEED to run more timing! more timing will help your low end. i would go check the timing as soon as you can.

 

I have the same cam basically. It like alot of timing, an ungodly amount really. I think Im running over 24* right now. that's one of the reason's I havn't sprayed the motor yet, scared I'll get detonation.

 

check the fuel pressure. if you can check it while driving make a pass and see if the fuel pressure drops. if it does start dropping significantly let out of it. i would not change to bigger injectors unless you get a chip to compensate for them. i have almost 200,000 and mine has gone 16.4 with headers(PF&E) mildly ported heads, and a custom chip.

 

an integra gs does 16.2 in the 1/4

 

did i miss something or is that irrelevant?!?! this forum is for third generation f-bodies.

 

no just comparing it to somthing everyone (import drivers) thinks is fast

 

imports suck!