This is less about the O2 sensor than it is about removing bolts, but Just so you know what I'm changing, there it is.

I'm changing the O2 sensor on my 91 Firebird 3.1L V6 and I have to say, that bitch is STUCK in there. I sprayed the crap out of it to high hell with wrench ease, I tapped at it with a hammer to try to loosen it, I ran the car to warm it up to try to loosen it, nothing is working it. I am putting all my strength into trying to get this bitch out and Im a big guy but it just wont budge.

Any ideas ?

 

Did you try by heat it up with a torch?...I remember when I was working on the emission system....changed the EGR valve.......EGR vacumm solenoid.....and of course.....O2 sensor...PITA!!!!, I had to heat it up for about 5 minutes......and I tell you more......when I took it out, it came out with the thread included....hahaha....had to make a new thread with an old sparkplug......
Now, so many people believe that if no O2code is threw by the computer we should not touch it at all.....
Remember that it only works when the car is in open loop, that means that it has to be in operating temperature.

 

My car is burning rich, I can tell because I put in brand new spark plugs, and a day later, they were all carboned up. But it's throwing 44, LEAN mixture. Well, I would say that if the car is burning rich, even though O2 sensor says lean, the O2 sensor is bad.

 

Grizzly_Addams, did you check the cold start switch? probably it gets stick all the time and therefore you are getting that.......also check the idling to be sure that the car is not "eating" the gas up....

 

I dont think 3.1's have a cold start switch do they?

 

I have found it best to prepare a few days ahead of time.

Spray the O2 down often when the car is warm to losen it up and also it helps to take it out while still hot.

Though a $9 propane torch will help do the job. kinda get a brick or some wood n prop it up so it blast on the O2 bung for a while.

It also help to sometime try to tighten the bolt or part a little, then back it out.

When I changed mine it was a real PITA. It help to cut the pig tail off to get a better grip.

 

Ok, my car completely failed to start today, so I checked the spark plugs, and they are completely carboned up. I already replaced them, but I haven't fired the car up yet.

What I'm looking to know is can I disconnect the O2 sensor so that it will stay on open loop operation while I drive it to the place where I'm getting the sensor removed?

 

can you use a breakerbar to get it out also try using PB BLASTER i think its called works awsome on rusty bolts.

 

If your plugs are getting covered with carbon it is an oil burning problem. Rich fuel mixture will just cover them with soot.

 

have you done a real tune up on it lately? its probably not just the o2 sensor. the o2 sensor is usually the effect of something else, not the cause of running rich. you do need to replace it, but my money would be on something else causing this rich condition.

 

Well, the car started to run crappy. So I changed the plugs/cap/rotor/wires/air filter. It ran good for a week and started to run crappy again. My father, who has worked on cars all his life, including engine swaps on GM vehicles, said to take a spark plug out and look to see if the white part was covered in black.

It was. He said to check the codes. I did. the O2 Sensor code came up. He said that since it's reading lean, and that it's obviously burning rich, I should replace the O2 Sensor. That's what I'm trying to do.

I know it's gas and not oil, because like I said, when I changed the plugs to get the car started again, they were pretty much almost dripping with gas. The car is basically flooding the cylinders with gas, and I can't get the O2 sensor out in my garage. My friend is taking me to the dealership where he works so I can get it on a lift and torch that beeotch out, but I can't afford to get it towed, I need to be able to drive it there. I spent all my money on 2 sets of plugs, new O2 sensors, new vaccuum hoses, all the tools I needed to retap the threads for the EGR valve, and the original tune up, and I won't have any more money till later this week, but I need my car to get to work. The way it's running now, I'm not sure it will make it. The dealership is probably about 8 to 10 miles away.

 

id test for injector leak. if theyre that saturated w/ gas, theres a problem. i used to have that similar problem. get a fuel pressure gauge and watch it w/ the car shut off.

 

How are you trying to loosen it? You're not using that "special" oxygen sensor socket, are ya? Those are junk; the special "slit" in the side for the wire will spread open and your full force doesn't go towards loosening it.

Foolproof method:

1. Crack the old oxy sensor off at the y-pipe, just leave the "nut".

2. Put a short socket on an 18" (or larger) breaker bar. A long socket doesn't apply all of your force to the nut.

3. Use hard/fast counter-clockwise yanks on the breaker bar. Never use a slow pullling motion- you want a hard/fast action.

That'll get it free; works like a charm. Something tells me that someone else replaced the sensor already, and cross-threaded it into the y-pipe.

When you install the new one, put extra anti-seize on the threads but DON'T get any on the end of the sensor!! It'll contaminate the sensor. And try not to cross thread the sensor!

The car will run fine with the oxy sensor unhooked. When the coolant warms up past 77 degrees and the engine's been running for more than 5 minutes, your service engine soon light will come on, but no big deal.

Are you using the correct heat range for your plugs? What's the part # of the plugs you've got?

 

Is there a difference between the BOSCH O2 and the AC DELCO one? (sorry i'm no help)

 

Disconnecting the O2 sensor should keep the engine in open loop. Just open the connector that connects the sensor to the harness and if need be tie it up so it doesn't melt on anything.

RBob.

 

I took the car to a local shop, they charged me all of $11 to swap the O2 sensor. Ha! Went home, dropped in 6 new plugs, ran some new vaccuum hose and whammo, car is back to awesome running order.

The next step is to diagnose the knock in my engine. Sounds like lower end. Possibly a rod bearing. What am I looking at for something like that?