Here's what I'm going to get to rebuild suspension:

Tubular Steering Brace (Wonder Bar): $60.00

Panhard Bar Mounting Hardware Kit: $10.95

Front End Rebuild Kit (centerlink, idler arm, inner & outer tie rod ends, lower ball joints, tie rod adjusters): $368.00

Spohn Sway Bars Set - Solid 4140 Chrome Moly:$295.00

Struts: Bilstein S36-0201 $177x2: $354

Shocks: Bilstein B36-0201 $75x2: $150

Lower Control Arm & Panhard (UM Performance): $160

Polyurethane Front Control Arm Bushings: $34.95

Panhard Bar Mounting Hardware Kit: $10.95

V6 lowering springs, Suspension Techniques: $150

Has anyone ever used the bolt-in lower control arm lowering brackets (pic attached)?

Any suggestions?

 

Don't forget some subframe connectors. What front end rebuild kit are you getting?

 

thanks for the input.

i'll be getting the Moog front end kit from Spohn.

 

fbodymotorsports.com has a moog front end rebuilt kit for $200 but I hear they're difficult to deal with at times...Post might be better in the suspension forum.

 

if your lowering, yes you need them brackets.

If you are wanting to save a tad. Since we have low end v6's, you can get used v8 swaybars, clean them up and install. Just remember, most swaybar sets sold are for v8s, not a v6. You wont need as large of a front bar as a v8.

I have 34hollow/24solid on mine. I belive dean has 34solid/25solid on his.

Dont forget a new torque arm also.

 

Yes I do have the 34/25 on it. They are very heavy bars. In actuallity, if I had it to do over, I would have just found the lighter weight hollow 36mm bar. It is stiffer that the 34mm solid and less unsprung weight. It would be a better match to the solid 25mm rear bar (that I would get) if you add SFC's (Get Spohn SFC's). If I ever "come across" a 36mm hollow bar I plan to pick it up. This car handles well enough right now no need to better it, its just the wifes car. Some day I may really trick this thing out though when I have money to throw away (were talking 10 years down the road maybe when I no longer have a house payment, I'm 38 right now and this car is just used as a very radical grocery getter). There is so much I would do different if T=this car was intended for weekend racing like open track events and autoX, but I built it really for everyday potholes and to hold up to street abuse that is not seen on a smooth racetrack.

I run those exact bolt-on BMR relocation brackets, however, mine are welded in place. I bought them purposely for the added location bracket that connects to the shock mount (I welded them together here also thinking I may someday go to coilovers on all 4 corners and these brackets help reinforce that mount to carry the weight of the rear of the car.

I have engineered a complete custon rear setup for these cars using a one-off Watts linkage desgn I come up with that utilizes the original mount points of the pahardrod and brace for a heavy duty chassis support brace that also carries an adjustable swaybar setup with aaluminum arm links that extend to the alxe and mount. This majorly decreases the rear unsprung weight. I engineered this out of interest and would love to someday actually build it because I designed it. But not for now.

 

Check this thread (It's an old post so prices are a little different than posted, but the info is still good):
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=215737

NAPA sells Moog parts as their MRC line. Much less expensive than Spohn.

 

Here was my list: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=184552 Mid-way down the list, I added a set of new front spring isolators.

What's missing from that is new LCA hardware - see https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=184591 for part numbers, but I think Spohn sells a kit with all the bolts in it.

I also used POR-15 on the tops of the lower control arms, after I removed over 200,000 miles of grease jobs! I only POR-15'd the tops because I could never get to them again; some day, I'll POR-15 the bottoms (they're easy to get to). See http://www.por15.com for details; their "Super Starter Kit" for $20 is the best deal for a small job- its got all three stages in it, and besides, you don't want to buy a big tub of POR-15 for a small job! POR-15 absorbs moisture so if you bought a big can, after a while, it might dry up on you in the can!

Make sure you're getting polygraphite bushings for the LCA's. Energy Suspension's polygraphite bushings have a "G" after the part # (for Graphite), as opposed to "Y" (Yellow) or B (Blue) or R (red) or etc.

 

From Autozone (local LA, CA chain store) I just installed a center link & idler arm & spent like $80 for both items. I negotiated off 10% from original cost due to asking. THANKS TO FAST RS for that tip!!
USA made, too. No name brands. I tossed all stuff packaging already.
Fit perfectly, I reused my original tie rod end link set up (by adding new dust boots at center link connection to tie rod parts), fresh marine grease.
Incredible Firebird F41 steering & road feedback, too.
Yes my milage is low at 150,000. And no adverse road conditions (like salt & such).
The tie rod boots are 1/2" studs if ya need to know. Boots only cost me $5/each.
Rest of my suspension is still factory, except the Shocks. I guess they are Gabriels.
Will I ever beat Dean in a race?
Oh jeeze
MAYBE IF I PULL OUT MY CORVETTE TO RACE HIS CAMARO!
I recently spent $835 to just cure a front end steering system leak (all new steering system parts & hoses), cracked frame fix (previous owners count them 11! & one accident by them) and power steering pump rebuild. I'm almost close to day one steering on that Corvette (finally!!!). That mentioned cost does not include the new Corvette steering linkage, new springs nor the Koni shocks!!

DEFINETLY YOU NEED SUBFRAME CONNECTORS!
Add that FIRST to extablish a baseline for all following work.

Replace Idler/centerlink FIRST then follow doing the tie rod ends.
Why?
The idler must be replaced in exact spot on frame (there are slots for adjustment) from removal.
IF done right, your car still steers straight, you can next do tie rod ends & keep good alignment to go get it properly done at a shop.
By replacing my Firebird stuff like that my alignment is still proper! Next visit for me is alignment shop for Firebird. But inbetween, my car still is arrow straight.

Idler arm replacement sucks. Took us longest to remove that part from frame connection. And took two people.

 

do you think i'll get into any trouble just bolting the relocation brackets on? tyring to avoid welding.

 

how did you like the look of the ST-60115 V6 lowering springs? noticable difference? also, your thread mentioned something about taking pics of the different steps. did you ever do this? is there a link?

thanks.

 

I personally love the way the suspension techniques springs look on my car.

 

They are made for that and I have never heard of anyone having problems just bolting them on like intended. I personally would be scared to do that the way I push my cars though but I do push my car very very hard and it sees twice the stress a stock supension would due to my traction levels.

To me, buying and using these constitutes sportier use of a car. But that depends on you level of suspension, drivetrain, and brakes and ultimately your tire grip ability to raise stress levels.

 

They look great; I used to run air shocks in the back, with huge tires- but the car was like that for 10 years! So I figured it was "time to update the look" and went with the lowering springs. The only pain in the butt is that the car is too low to drive up on my ramps, and too low for my big hydraulic jack to fit under the front crossmember. But man, with the rest of the parts I put on, it corners beautifully!!

I'll attach the before/after pic that I was showing everyone! Uh... but as for the other pics... I never put up a webpage. I really should... before I forget what the hell each pic is for. Oh- by the way, too, the "before" picture is with the air shocks deflated, so the back of the car was at normal ride height.

 

thanks to you all for the info and pics.

i'll post my before and after shots to the suspension forum in a couple weeks.