TomP

Just wondering if I'm missing anything that I should have express-shipped to my house! I'm planning on doing the 'ol suspension this weekend.

Steering linkage (all parts are Moog):
K6145T, balljoints, bought two
DS1049, center link
ES2032S, tie rod adjusting sleeve, two
ES2226RL, outer tie rod end, two
ES2227RL, inner tie rod end, two
K6249, idler arm

Shocks/Springs:
KYB GR-2 front struts, 236001 (bought 2)
KYB gas-a-just rear shocks, K65562 (bought 2)
KYB Right upper strut mount w/bearing, SM5027
KYB Left upper strut mount w/bearing, SM5028
Suspension Techniques V6 lowering springs, #60115 shox.com

Polyurethane Bushings (all Energy Suspension):
3-3157G, front control arm set
3-3136G, rear control arm set
3-7106G, track bar (panhard rod) set
** Already have complete sway bar bushings installed

Tools purchased:
Balljoint press, OTC-7249
Strut alignment bubble level, made by Tool Aid, #61800

Left to buy:edit, 6/11/03: Below items purchased!
New control arm hardware (bolts/nuts), front & rear
Internal spring compressor

Now, I think I have everything else I need. I've got the regular assortment of tools, including an air compressor and tools, balljoint separator, and torque wrench. I can't think of anything I'm missing; as far as it looks to me, I'm good to go. Just figured I'd run this by you guys that have actually done the work! I'm sure there's gotta be some specialty tool or part I'm missing.

For instance, my GM/Helms book says to use two J-tools to "seat the tapers" on the center link, but I don't think I need those. (I hope I don't need those.) It's things like that I'd like to know about... specialty stuff that Pep Boys doesn't carry.

Side note; I think I can make the strut-alignment J-tool in the Helms book. It's a turnbuckle with a couple hooks that ties the edge of the strut mount to the top of the fender; meant for holding the strut at a certain angle while you adjust the alignment. Beats the 'ol hammer & block of wood method of pounding on the strut towers!

82camaro

Just wondering if I'm missing anything that I should have express-shipped to my house! I'm planning on doing the 'ol suspension this weekend.

Steering linkage (all parts are Moog):
K6145T, balljoints, bought two
DS1049, center link
ES2032S, tie rod adjusting sleeve, two
ES2226RL, outer tie rod end, two
ES2227RL, inner tie rod end, two
K6249, idler arm

Shocks/Springs:
KYB GR-2 front struts, 236001 (bought 2)
KYB gas-a-just rear shocks, K65562 (bought 2)
KYB Right upper strut mount w/bearing, SM5027
KYB Left upper strut mount w/bearing, SM5028
Suspension Techniques V6 lowering springs, #60115 shox.com

Polyurethane Bushings (all Energy Suspension):
3-3157G, front control arm set
3-3136G, rear control arm set
3-7106G, track bar (panhard rod) set
** Already have complete sway bar bushings installed

Tools purchased:
Balljoint press, OTC-7249
Strut alignment bubble level, made by Tool Aid, #61800
Only if you aren't getting an alignment and want to 'attempt' to set it close to what it was before.



Left to buy:
New control arm hardware (bolts/nuts), front & rear
Internal spring compressor
Shouldn't need a compressor.



Now, I think I have everything else I need. I've got the regular assortment of tools, including an air compressor and tools, balljoint separator, and torque wrench. I can't think of anything I'm missing; as far as it looks to me, I'm good to go. Just figured I'd run this by you guys that have actually done the work! I'm sure there's gotta be some specialty tool or part I'm missing.

For instance, my GM/Helms book says to use two J-tools to "seat the tapers" on the center link, but I don't think I need those. (I hope I don't need those.) It's things like that I'd like to know about... specialty stuff that Pep Boys doesn't carry.
Not needed, especially with new tie-rod ends.

Side note; I think I can make the strut-alignment J-tool in the Helms book. It's a turnbuckle with a couple hooks that ties the edge of the strut mount to the top of the fender; meant for holding the strut at a certain angle while you adjust the alignment. Beats the 'ol hammer & block of wood method of pounding on the strut towers!
Can tweak the fender(watched an certified tech do this). I never like the tool, I found it easier to just tap the strut mount with a rubber mallet with the nuts loose enough to allow the strut mount to move, but tight enough to hold position. Thirdgen's are an easy alignment. Do you have a camber/caster guage and toe equipment to do an alignment? If you don't, I wouldn't mess with the strut adjustment anyway--you can't guess it correct, even with the bubble tool. To use the bubble tool the wheel is off and it shows the strut angle, when you need the wheel angle. Not to mention that if you adjust with the bubble tool the weight isn't on the car and the mount will move around easy. Just put the new mount in where the old one came out(it will be close enough). You will probably have to guess the toe as close as possible to get to an alignment shop as well.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

WOW! What a list. Looks like you have everything, I can't think of anything else...

except the 5" pipe nipple to let the internal spring compressor work right Pics below. This really helped a lot. I take it you don't need end links as you stated you have all the sway bar bushings installed.


Looks good!

Ed

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Place a little anti-seize or moly lube on the ball joints and bushings before you press them in. Prevents them from galling and making your life miserable.

To get the springs out the inside of the A arm is to be lowered first. Leave it connected to the strut and remove the two pivot bolts, then lower it. It should be covered in the helm manual. A big chain loosely wrapped through the spring & A arm is nice insurance.

I did mine w/o the spring compressor. The B kept slipping on me.

RBob.

TomP

82camaro, thanks for the info on the alignment! I'm really not into getting my fenders tweaked; I think I'll skip making that tool. I was hoping to use the bubble gauge to measure how the strut was "in the air", without weight on it, and then try to put it back at the same setting- which is probably exactly what your method does (align the strut mount in the same position the old one was in).

Ed, thanks! I've got that message of yours bookmarked; it's a great way to avoid destroying the spring compressor. I think I actually might have that section of pipe in the garage; I used it when I made a home-made rear axleshaft bearing puller. I have to see how long it is.

Rbob, anti-sieze on the balljoints, eh? Sounds good to me! Just on the shoulder where they contact the control arm? Should I add some to the hole in the control arm, too? And good idea about the bushings; a guy on here (sorry I forget the name) said he was able to push 'em in with his balljoint tool. Another guy said he used a 6" vice and a breaker bar to push them in. I just have a 4 inch vise, so unless I can find a dirt cheap 6", I"ll be using the balljoint tool.

I just got raped on control arm bolts; I'm going to start a new message on them in case anyone needs to buy them. I especially got nailed on the damn nuts... hm; I guess that's a pun, isn't it?

I've gotta do some searches on how to disassemble the ES bushings... I can't believe they didn't prelube 'em for me. Boneheads. And just a double check from what I've read all the time- basically I destroy the old bushings/sleeves from the control arms, right?

Xceleratemaro

i did not have any luck with that spring compresser.. so be prepared. you might have some fun getting the old spring out..

TomP

I'm basically wanting the spring compressor as extra insurance against my head getting ripped off by the spring! It might come down to using a chain, seeing as how I'm spending a ton of cash on this project already... and I guess I could always try to rent one, but it's so much more fun to own a tool!

Matt87GTA

No compressor needed at all for the springs (front or rear)... Rears basically remove and install themselves with the car raised and the axle hanging.

The fronts are pretty easy too: Loosen control arm bushing bolts but leave the bolts in with the nuts on a few threads (this will release the stress on the LCA bushings and allow the arm to swing down freely). Remove sway bar end link. Remove ball joint nut. Place floor jack about a 1/2" below the control arm. Split control arm off of the steering knuckle using a pickle fork or just getting an adequate BFH and whacking the knuckle where the ball joint stud passes through. Ball joint will release with a pop and the floor jack will catch the control arm. Now slowly lower the jack until the spring is completely released. Now swap new spring in and any other hardware and do the reverse for the install/reassembly.

Use Zip ties (3 each) on the spring isolators to keep them in place.

Unless the car is extremely far off the ground you have virtually nothing to worry about with the spring flying out of its upper perch (it goes up in there a good 8 inches) even if the floor jack were to slip. But if you want to be sure, keep the jack stands in the middle of their travel so the control arm can't swing down completely when the ball joint is split off the knuckle.

But safety is what it is and it won't hurt to be extra safe. I'm just letting you know how I have done it (3 times on my car alone) more times than I can remember on various thirdgens....

BTS88IROC

I do my front springs exactly like Matt said. No need for a spring compressor. Just take your time and be careful. I always use a jack or 2 sometimes just to be on the safe side too while I am lowering the a-arm down to release the tension on the spring.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

It's been addressed before...you don't NEED the compressor but I used it with no problems and it made reinstallation a snap. Some guys use it, some don't.


Ed

TomP

Thanks for the extra tips, guys! I've done the rear springs plenty of times before (changed my fuel pump twice, swapped rears twice, changed exhaust twice, fixed my upper shock mounts (blown through), etc), it's the fronts I'm scared of. But good to know that the spring's up there a good 8 inches or so inside... never thought about it, but yeah, every time i've redone the wheel bearings, or even when I replaced the spindle on the driver's side, there wasn't much spring to see! I'll definately break out both jacks for this job; good idea. I still want to get a compressor anyway, though. It's kinda late to order one online; there's one parts store I'm going to hit during lunch (and we'll see if Iget back to work on time, LOL!), and if they don't have it or want $32902 for it, I'll do without. The chance I'll ever do springs on another car that needs a spring compressor is pretty frickin' rare, anyway.

Thanks for reminding me about the spring insulators, Matt. Do they look like the rear ones (flat on the chassis end, notched for the end of the coil on the spring end)?

Oh sht, should I be replacing those?? They should be fine, right?? I heard the replacements are taller then stock... or was that just aftermarket replacements?

What about spring settling? Should I take the car on it's first drive down the most bumpy road in my town to help settle the springs, and then go for the alignment? Or can I go right to the alignment shop?

TomP

Got my spring compressor today; by Michigan Tool- cheap unit, $26. The Tool-Aid one was $69... can't really justify paying that for a possible-one-time-use-only tool. Had to order my friggin ES2227RL locally; looks like I bought Summit's last one on that order above; now ES2227RL is on backorder. Got the bolts/nuts today, too. Looks like I just need to go get me some zerks and I'm set!

Oh yeah- looks like shox.com is getting my springs to me on time... if the UPS truck doesn't get a flat tire, I should have 'em on Friday. Nuthin like doing things at the last minute... I love it when a plan comes together.

Matt87GTA

My isolators were pretty messed up (thus the requirement of the zip ties to keep them in place) but they get the job done and I wanted the springs to be the only change. I have heard that different isolators are different thicknesses (as in OEM versus aftermarket) but I have only seen the used factory ones on all of the cars I have had apart. I also always just zip tied them to the spring and slapped them back in. All it has to do is sit there and it won't move much once the spring is installed so why spend money on them.... .

It's hard to say what they look like when they are brand new as far as the original ones go... They definately have a notch where the spring fits into them, but it may have just been flat when it was brand new and the spring made that little notch part. The tops of the springs themselves are flat (at least the factory WS6 and Eibach Pro Kit ones were) so that really doesn't matter much.

It's up to you if you want new ones but I wouldn't worry about them.....

As for spring settle... I wouldn't worry much about that either. They can't really move much once installed..... But hitting a few bumps before you have it aligned wouldn't be a bad thing either.....

TomP

Thanks for the info! I think I'll see how much they are at the dealer. If the place charges an arm and a leg, the original ones are going back in. And I think I -will- hit a few bumps; hell I just have to drive down any main road in my town and it'll beat up the suspension. You'd think they'd worry about paving the main roads instead of the side roads!

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Here's some pics:

Here's a shot of my front springs with new GM isolators, they are about 1/4" thick and 5" or so wide. New from GM they're @ $5 each. Energy Suspension is supposed to be making them now also, you have to pick your size but they should be part number 9-6118, IIRC. I measured mine when I was ordering them but they kept pushing back the ship date so I went with factory pieces. You'll need to measure to verify.

http://www.energysuspension.com/sboots.html

Ed

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Here's a shot of the new GM rear isolators. I swear these are for 4th gens and they are the only part number for them. They make the *** end sit WAAAYYYY to high and they are all rubber. Our factory ones are part steel so they hold up fine. I reinstalled mine and the car sits fine now. I don't recommend these pictured below. ES does not make rear isolators AFAIK. You can clearly see the difference and where the end of the spring should go.


Ed

TomP

Ed, thanks for the pics! I've seen that shot of yours comparing the rear isolators before, and yeah, that definately can't be the same part #. Those front isolators are THIN... cool. Hey (laughs) can the front isolators be used in the rear?

I ordered the front isolators from the dealer during lunch... not that bad, I guess (gag)- $10.33/each. (sigh) I told myself $15 was the limit for each one. I should've told myself $10 was the limit. Oh well.

Checked out my OTC balljoint tool when I got home... damn, that sucker is friggin huge! Nicely made, too. The threaded rod is actually made of a few pieces! On the end that does the pushing, there's an insert that goes into the threaded rod. Inside the threaded rod, there's an o-ring and a ball bearing. Very cool.

25THRSS

I just wanted to say this post is frickin awesome!

TomP

Oh #@!& ****** %&*@# !!! ***** !!!!

Woulda been nice if shox.com told me there was a signature required for UPS. Yep, they came by- while my dad was home, in the basement- found nobody to answer the door and sign for the sucker, so they LEFT! Of course UPS is closed Saturday, so I have to wait until Monday to get the springs.

Nice, huh? Rotten f***** *** *******!

Good thing I took Monday off.

Brighter note; got the spring insulators today... wow, they're thin. I thought they were stepped a bit to accept the spring end; didn't realize they were completely flat. Now the zip-tying and duct-taping of the insulator to the spring makes complete sense!

[edit] Oh, heh heh, never mind. UPS just called me. I can pick the package up between 7:00 and 7:30 pm today. They must've known that I just posted this message cursing them out, eh? They literally called like 2 minutes after I posted this message. Okay, I'm better now.

TomP

Another update... picked up my springs Friday night- Hell yeah! Went to a junkyard this morning to get the strut retainer bolt assembly from an 87-92 f-body... yard charged me $5 total (for both). That'll fix the strut mount fitment problem (mentioned at https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=183622 ).

I just need a new cut-off wheel (mine looks pretty ratty) and a couple zerks, and I'm good to go! Might try to pick up a tie rod end remover, too, to "gently" remove the center link from the pitman arm.

TomP

For those interested, <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=185664" target="_newwin">my message on the V6 forum regarding the status of day #1!</a>

RebelGQ

Can you reply with some links where I can get struts and shocks for my 90 camaro... and brakes of course... I know i need new rotors...