So I have 250/45/17's on the rear of my car. I want to lower the car an inch with Suspension Techniques V6 lowering springs since I heard the Eibach will actually lift the front of the car because they are made for V8's (unless someone knows otherwise). But I am afriad since my tires are larger than reccomended, whether or not the lowering springs will couase the car to hit the tires or not.

thanks for all your help.

*******************
Whoops, mixed those numbers up, I meant 245/50/17. The fronts are 245/45/17 which is the recommended height for the tire. So my rears are taller and the guy at my auto shop said they just about fit without causing problems.

I also had another question. I want a better ride than I do now. My car seems so rough, any little bump in the road is magnified by the car. Are koni red's a good choice for a smooth ride? Or is there something better out there? I also want them to last.

 

What's the height of the tire? I've never heard of a 250/45/17... is that a 255/45/17, maybe?

My 245/50/16s are 25.65" tall, and have plenty of room with the DropZone V6 springs

The 255/45/17s are 26.04" tall - the stock 215/65/15s are 26" tall, so I'd say you are good

 

 

Also, if you want a smooth ride - Koni reds + lowering springs really aren't the answer

245/50/17? That's 26.65" tall (dang, almost a 27" tall tire!)

I couldn't say, in that case - I would think it would be ok, but you won't know unless you try

 

What brands will give you a smooth ride then? And does any aftermarket company make stock height springs?

 

If you want a smooth ride-

Factory springs
Generic parts-store shocks (KYB, Monroe, etc)
15" rims and tires to fit 15" rims

With your 17's, you don't have much sidewall, so you're feeling every bump in the road thru the wheel. If you had 15" rims, the extra rubber for the tire's sidewall would act as a cushion.

You can't improve handling and get a smooth ride... it's one or the other. Unless you can convince your town to repave all the streets

I have P245/60r15's in the back with the 1" SST lowering springs; they come kinda close to the wheel well lip.

1. The only way would be for you to test it out. First, measure the height difference between the top of your tire and the wheel well lip. (Use thin/flat pieces of wood to give you flat spots to measure between).

2. Securely and Safely, raise the back of the car and set the rear subframe on jackstands (right "in front of" the rear lower control arm attach points). Keep the hydraulic jack under the axle. Remove the lower shock-to-axle nuts, push the shock bolts out of the axle, lower the axle down a bit more, and remove the rear springs.

3. Now raise the axle back up with the hydraulic jack. (Keep it from catching on the disconnected shocks.) Watch the tire-to-wheelwell clearance. Use your measurement from step #1 to get the clearance "to current spec". Then subtract an inch, and use the hydraulic jack to raise the axle up an inch more. ** BE CAREFUL that the car doesn't raise itself off of the jackstands!!

And finally, see if you'll have enough clearance.

Torque to tighten the lower shock nuts back is 100 ft/lbs.

 

Doesnt matter now anyway. I blew my second tire yesterday. These Bf-Goodrich Scorcher TA's have a very weak sidewall configuration. And since my car is very unforgiving, it beats them up real bad. They red tires are discontinued but at least now I can buy reliable tires where i don't have to worry about blow outs and sidewall "bubbles" (yes got those too).
I bought Michelin Pilot Sport Zero Pressure's. All 245/45/17's. No more tall tires. Basically the new ones are like the reg Pilot sports, except these are run-flats. Reviews say the handling difference is nominal if not non-existent. What I like is that the sidewalls and reinforced and very strong. Good news for me! And if they do blow out, i can drive on them to the nearest gas station or home if I'm close enough.