Running Lean
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Running Lean
Anybody got any suggestions on what could be the cause of my egine running lean? I recently Replaced the sparkplugs sparkwires, changed the oil, Replaced the Air filter (3 months ago, but since the Valley's air sucks like hell it looks like its been in for years) I know im burning oil (and its getting up into the Air filter area) Im at a loss
by the way it is a V6 2.8l Carburated
Firebreed
by the way it is a V6 2.8l Carburated
Firebreed
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
No clue on the Carb rebuilt because the egine wasnt well maintaied before i bought it , ill check on the O2 senson, And i have no clue where the fuel filter is located at on the carb.(new to working on cars)
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Originally posted by Firebreed
(new to working on cars)
(new to working on cars)
we will be your best virtual friends.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
i got the Haynes manuel... And ill make sure ill do what it says.. but ive done everything within my fincal range right now
maybe ill go for the new 02 sensor first?
Firebreed
maybe ill go for the new 02 sensor first?Firebreed
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
First off, how do you know you're running lean? Do you have a code? Do you have an A/F Sensor? Are you guessing?
i wouldn't touch the carb until you know for sure that everything else is working like it should be, because if that's not the problem, it'll be an expensive waste of time and money. Chekc to be sure that all the sensors are functioning correctly and the the M/C Solenoid works. Something that happens all the time, especially on the Quadrajets(which this carb is, just missing the secondaries), is that people think that they will adjust the carb and then they mess with the M/C solenoid limiting screws, and screw everything up. The car will either run super rich, or super lean all the time. and then the problem is compacted by shops that rebuild them not knowing how to recalibrate it.
There is a special tool that is made for doing this. All it really is is a ruler that is calibrated in 1/64" increments. It comes with the instructions on how to adjust it, but you have to hunt it down and order it. 99% of the time, if a Computer controled carb is not dispensing fuel corrrectly, and all the other sensors are functioning, this is the problem. i have seen many of these carbs come back from being rebuilt and they don't run any different because someone screwed with the limiting screws.
i wouldn't touch the carb until you know for sure that everything else is working like it should be, because if that's not the problem, it'll be an expensive waste of time and money. Chekc to be sure that all the sensors are functioning correctly and the the M/C Solenoid works. Something that happens all the time, especially on the Quadrajets(which this carb is, just missing the secondaries), is that people think that they will adjust the carb and then they mess with the M/C solenoid limiting screws, and screw everything up. The car will either run super rich, or super lean all the time. and then the problem is compacted by shops that rebuild them not knowing how to recalibrate it.
There is a special tool that is made for doing this. All it really is is a ruler that is calibrated in 1/64" increments. It comes with the instructions on how to adjust it, but you have to hunt it down and order it. 99% of the time, if a Computer controled carb is not dispensing fuel corrrectly, and all the other sensors are functioning, this is the problem. i have seen many of these carbs come back from being rebuilt and they don't run any different because someone screwed with the limiting screws.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Originally posted by 2_point8_boy
First off, how do you know you're running lean? Do you have a code? Do you have an A/F Sensor? Are you guessing?
i wouldn't touch the carb until you know for sure that everything else is working like it should be, because if that's not the problem, it'll be an expensive waste of time and money. Chekc to be sure that all the sensors are functioning correctly and the the M/C Solenoid works. Something that happens all the time, especially on the Quadrajets(which this carb is, just missing the secondaries), is that people think that they will adjust the carb and then they mess with the M/C solenoid limiting screws, and screw everything up. The car will either run super rich, or super lean all the time. and then the problem is compacted by shops that rebuild them not knowing how to recalibrate it.
There is a special tool that is made for doing this. All it really is is a ruler that is calibrated in 1/64" increments. It comes with the instructions on how to adjust it, but you have to hunt it down and order it. 99% of the time, if a Computer controled carb is not dispensing fuel corrrectly, and all the other sensors are functioning, this is the problem. i have seen many of these carbs come back from being rebuilt and they don't run any different because someone screwed with the limiting screws.
First off, how do you know you're running lean? Do you have a code? Do you have an A/F Sensor? Are you guessing?
i wouldn't touch the carb until you know for sure that everything else is working like it should be, because if that's not the problem, it'll be an expensive waste of time and money. Chekc to be sure that all the sensors are functioning correctly and the the M/C Solenoid works. Something that happens all the time, especially on the Quadrajets(which this carb is, just missing the secondaries), is that people think that they will adjust the carb and then they mess with the M/C solenoid limiting screws, and screw everything up. The car will either run super rich, or super lean all the time. and then the problem is compacted by shops that rebuild them not knowing how to recalibrate it.
There is a special tool that is made for doing this. All it really is is a ruler that is calibrated in 1/64" increments. It comes with the instructions on how to adjust it, but you have to hunt it down and order it. 99% of the time, if a Computer controled carb is not dispensing fuel corrrectly, and all the other sensors are functioning, this is the problem. i have seen many of these carbs come back from being rebuilt and they don't run any different because someone screwed with the limiting screws.
Firebreed
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
QUOTE]Let's make this easier.
Who did the swap of the 3.1 under the 2.8 set up[/QUOTE]
Orginally i thought it was a 3.1 but i looked at the emissions tag and it was a 2.8
noob mistake, i replaced the O2 sensor and the car runs a bit better (not stalling out as much) i did fool around with the idle screwand i found that if i when one rachit click clock wize the idle would go up, to about 1000 rpm's and one rachit click down would cause the car to utterly stall (all when the car is not warmed up, when warmed up it idles fine) any ideas (and sorry for the delay)
Who did the swap of the 3.1 under the 2.8 set up[/QUOTE]
Orginally i thought it was a 3.1 but i looked at the emissions tag and it was a 2.8
noob mistake, i replaced the O2 sensor and the car runs a bit better (not stalling out as much) i did fool around with the idle screwand i found that if i when one rachit click clock wize the idle would go up, to about 1000 rpm's and one rachit click down would cause the car to utterly stall (all when the car is not warmed up, when warmed up it idles fine) any ideas (and sorry for the delay) Junior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Sin City, NV
Car: 88 RS
Engine: 2.8 untill the 3800 swap
Transmission: Auto
Hey Firebreed, that be a Varijet on that thing! Pull the evap canister line off the carb and see if it's full of charcoal. I've seen the canisters come apart and pull charcoal up into the secondary metering rod hole and make them run lean.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Hey Firebreed, that be a Varijet on that thing! Pull the evap canister line off the carb and see if it's full of charcoal. I've seen the canisters come apart and pull charcoal up into the secondary metering rod hole and make them run lean.
Thanks for all the help,
Firebreed
Replacing my Coolant Temp Sensor sure did help me with some problems.
BUT your version of carb it may not be there.
Go to GM dealer and seek coolant sensor to see if that is something to replace. Mine cost $16 or even less if ya get it without the connector. Mine was located next to thermostat housing.
BUT your version of carb it may not be there.
Go to GM dealer and seek coolant sensor to see if that is something to replace. Mine cost $16 or even less if ya get it without the connector. Mine was located next to thermostat housing.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Well, I believe i fixed my lean problem, i replaced my O2 sensor, and now im not haveing any lean problems, however i did find a Vacume source on my manifold, which was behind the carb and infront of the dizzy, Im not sure what it is so i pluged the thing up and now, shes runnin smooth (until i hit around 80 miles an hour and the hole car shakes like crazy, need new tires
)
Firebreed
)Firebreed
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