Whenever i wake up and start my car before school, it idles horribly. It will sometimes take 4-5 seconds to start and sometimes it starts immediatly. When i does get started, it goes up and down between 500 and 1500 rpms. Then when i put it in gear, it sometimes stalls out. Once it is warm, it starts fine. It just started doing this recently.

Also, my SES light sometimes comes on. It is reading EGR (code 32). I made sure that all of the connections to it were good and i took it apart and cleaned it. Still, about every other time i drive it, it will come up as code 32.

 

Well, as for your problem, join the club. I also have been having this problem for about 9 months now (since the 3.1 was put in).

First, check your spark plugs (all six) and see what color they are. If they are black, you aren't getting enough air, and if they are white, you are getting too much. They should be a tan/gray color. Next, take a vacuum reading at the tee on the back of the upper plenum, or any place you can safely disconnect. I have found that anything above 12" Hg is acceptable, any lower and the power brake booster won't work properly according to some people. I currently have 14" Hg at that tee, and the engine still don't like to run right without holding the throttle for a few seconds. If the vacuum reading is low, go around with either starting fluid or brake cleaner and spray all the vacuum line connections with the engine warm. If the engine speed increases, you have a leak there. Especially check the injector o-rings, any vacuum tees, and the charcoal canister's vent valves and solenoid. I would also replace (or at least check the torque) the valve cover gaskets. If they are loose, especially the driver's side one, they can create a massive vacuum leak (take your PCV valve out of it with the engine running and don't cover the port... I guarantee the engine will try it's hardest to stall). This is also a good opportunity to put fresh gaskets and o-rings on the intake system, since the valve cover gaskets come in an intake gasket kit, and go to NAPA for the injector o-rings--they are only 1.19 per injector, and you only need 3 sets (you won't be removing the injectors from the fuel rail, will you?). While you are at it, if you have a DMM, check the resistance on the injectors. They each should be about 12 ohms resistance, with no more than a 20% variation.

Second, for the EGR, disconnect the bottom vacuum hose and see if it has vacuum with the engine running. If it does, hook a piece of extension hose to it, and hook it to the valve. If the valve opens, the engine should stumble and almost stall, if not stall completely. That means the valve is good. If the valve opens but nothing happens, then you need to clean out the ports in the piping. If the valve is good, then you can go on and check the solenoid. If you have a vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the bottom port. You should hear a quack-like sound as the solenoid vents the vacuum to the atmosphere (don't ask why there is a common vacuum leak... all I know is that there is and it was put there on purpose). Now, you need to apply 12V to the solenoid (if someone could help me remember what terminals to use it would help) and continue to apply vacuum to the lower port. IIRC, the vacuum should be coming out port B now, the EGR port. If the solenoid is good, then check the sensor. The vacuum line should be on the port nice and tight, and should be teed into port B of the solenoid, in between the it and the valve. Remove the hose from the sensor, and if anything comes out, replacement is necessary. Perform a vacuum check on the sensor to see if it holds vacuum, if not, it needs to go. Other than that, the last things in the list that can be problematic are the wiring to and from the sensor/switch and the ECM...

:edit: I have also read that the ignition coil can do this, but I get the same result with either of two I have, so either they are both bad or something else is wrong...

 

I had a cold-running problem with my '87 2.8L Camaro as well. It would run rough and back-fire through the intake once or twice under load when it was cold. Once the engine was warm (near operating temperature), it was fine. I finally tracked it down to the intake air temperature sensor. It was reading 77*F when the temperature was actually 33*F. After replacing that, I didn't have any more problems.

The coolant temperature sensor can also cause problems when it is reading incorrectly.

 

I've had the same problem, my IAT sensor was off be 110*F! Was reading 180*F at an actual temp of 70*F. I replaced it and about a week later the new sensor failed also, this time it was reading -30*F at 70*F (SES light on intermitantly). I replaced it again, and no more problems.