yes, and the distributor looks like the end of a field hockey stick

 

Don't worry as when ya strip off "everything" it's "exactly" the same block as a 2.8.
That's why the swap is so easy, "everything" is the same as on your current vehicle engine in your engine bay right now.

 

I really do agree with what you said about the 3.4 swap.
You do get about the same hp, if not more with the 3.4 than a moderatly modified 2.8, of course if you can get it for a hundred bucs damn what could you bitch about. I would probably swap if I could find one for 100 bucks...lol

But like you say theres no replacement for displacement, and if I wanted a ***** to the wall car then I would go with that other v engine that will remain nameless....lol.

But I just get the feeling that everyone feels that the 2.8 wouldn't make a good paper weight much less anything else and it really is a good engine, at least it seams to be so far. I readly admit finding parts period much less performance parts has been interesting to say the least but the good news is that alot of stuff interchanges with it, well so far it has I havn't needed anything more major than the heads right now and thats mainly because I'm to lazy to tap the 4 bolts I broke off in them.....btw, who designed that exaust manifold anyway....what an idiot, yea it looks good like that you can see the dirt and rust as it bakes into the groves of the expose shafts...geez.....

Ron the Tard

 

let me clarify.....

I would say everything I said applies to the 85 and newer 135hp 2.8.
If you have an old 107hp 2.8...do the swap and use the 2.8 for a toaster.

the 3.4 stock is 160hp btw, still not sure if 25hp is worth the effort, but i still would for $100 bucks....lol
3.1 id 140hp...hardley worh the effort for me
3.8 @ 200hp is kewl, was going to buy one for $250 but the swap and loss of a/c or at least cutting the firewall for an a/c sealed the coffin on that Idea...here in Florida a/c is not an "option" ....

Ron

 

swapping a 3.8 in is a whole different story. its not an easy swap. project85bird (i think that's the right username) is doing this swap...has been for a while. he has had lots of issues to work around...

 

alright, I started to look into what will need to come off and what not, there are some hoses that seem to be clamped into place. such as the hoses from the a.c. compressor. are they safe to remove? i'll post a picture of it when i get a chance.

 

ALL YA NEED DO IS
Read my swap thread.
ALL ya doing is
REMOVING ITEMS and placing them aside, WITH STUFF STILL ATTACHED!!!
No need to TRULY DETACH EVERY CONNECTION CABLE
Like on Throttle Body
DO NOT DETACH THOSE CABLES!
Remove the TB from the upper intake and place it aside and just work forward.
Again when ya get so much side by side SO MUCH becomes more clear!
Power steering pump same story, detach from engine, put aside, mount bracket back on the 3.4 & when engine in engine bay, reattach the PS pump to bracket! Simple!
NO TRUE NEED TO go so deep into this discussion, again, until ya got the engines side by side.
Read again what I'm gonna say
IT'S A VERY SIMPLE YET BLOODY DETAILED SWAP!
KEEP each part of the project "simple" and the goal is to only reattach each removed/separated item, back onto the newly installed 3.4 long block under the hood.
Go back & read the 2.8->3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie tech swap thread.
Honest it'll make more sense when ya got the things side by side and ya get to compare the apples to apples, oranges to oranges.
Now go have a Pat's & Gino's Cheese Steak and then tell me which is better.
Last time I was in Philly, the differnce got hard for me to figure out again.
Previous visit, it's was Ginos, an easy victory.
Then before that Pat's!
G0D GIVE ME GREAT FOOD AGAIN!!!!!one day!
Look at my swapped in engine picture again.
Yep that's a 3.4 in there!

 

man KED, you're gonna hate me by the end of this thread i'm tellin you, pats and gino's is on me, i can't find any of the threads on the swap.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=61805

IT IS THE OPENING OF THIS THREAD.
sry for the caps, I 'm a draftsman and my caps are always locked and I'm used to seeing caps so this looks strange....

Ron the Tard

 

www.jamesyedon.info/Personal/2.8to3.4.doc was my page I was going to use for the swap, doesn't have ALL the info but as alot of it.

 

thank you

 

I have no idea where my old tech thread went
I believe it's still there.
I once had time to have written it
but now all I can do is tell ya do a search for it.
Northern Auto Part is a great place where to get the gasket set & such you'll need.
Do not pass up the chance to try & squeeze a lower price from Pep Boys by telling them you want to give them money but I can mail order it lower [**** at this place.
See what happens cause they just may sell it to ya at lower price.
I do that all time, price shop & bargin at local stores.

 

Got to love working at a shop, I get it cheaper then you could probably bargain

 

I'm happy to keep saving whenever I can.
I'm saving over $100 for shower doors I'm installing on a shower I've built by price/product shopping 3 stores.
I couldn't justify spending $1400 on a shower door set up I was drooling over on a house I'm gonna sell.

 

well, KED, pat's was the winner last night. A few of my friends and I went down, and pat's took the victory. I also picked up the gaskets today. I'll have to mail you some pat's for all your help.

 

You lucky!
Enjoy your latest challenge.
You will.
Keep eating Pat's and Gino's for me, please.
I hope to be back shortly! Somone has to keep supporting them in business since I'm out here!
Have a Lee's Hoagie for breakfast, please!
Italian Supreme, foot long, light on the liquid spices, heavy on the peppers (sweet) is my favorite way!
You did pick up correct gasket set right? FOR YOUR ORIGINAL VEHICLE ENGINE, since that "IS" what you are building......

 

yes, please pm me on what's needed for that swap, as I cain give you hints/tricks on what NOT to do.

 

yes i picked up the gaskets for the 3.1, and not the 3.4. I also started taking many notes, and really reading over my manual. Its like school right now, I've been under the hood of my car for the last hour just examining and looking and thinking and hoping and worrying and.........................well, if anything, its given me an excuse to buy more tools!

 

If you need any diagrams or anything, I got mitchell on demand, a Chilton manual and a Hanyes manual at my house, plus AllData at work that I can use aswell.

 

IF your exhaust bolts are too rusted, you can always just remove the current exhaust manifolds and then remove the assembly at the Cat Convertor. Another way to remove something that "won't matter" when there is no engine in engine bay.
And the majoirty of the wiring literally falls right back where it came from on the induction/ignition system.
Keep the plan of the swap simple, yet detailed.

 

is it possible to keep the TB AND PLENUM connected to each other and just put them to the side for the swap. I'm trying to do as little dismantling as possible.

 

yeah, you can leave those two bolted together.

 

ah good, alan would your tb and intake manifold work on the 3.4? i'd like to see what kind of gains that would make on a 3.4.

 

There is NO GAIN by trying to use the 3.4 induction system.
THERE IS GAIN by removing the TB from top intake section.
WHY?
When ya remove it you'll find TONS OF CRUD IN THERE GLUED to the top of the intake
WHY?
See that EGR set up?
It's attached to the top intake part & it gets all carbon built up in there.
One removes the crud built up in there for "any gains".
You will NOT LOOSE one BIT of power by using the 2.8/3.1 induction system bolted to the 3.4 motor.
As pretty as is the 3.4 induction, you cannot use it. INCLUDING the 3.4 manifold base!
Of 100 plus swappers so far, NONE have used the 3.4 induction system in the swap.
It's not worth the "being done factor". Now adding Fiero valve covers is a common upgrade for the pretty factor.
You'll be spending time cleaning and refitting everything you remove. And on that point, all the cleaning benefits ya when the motor is running, for the long term.
Your biggest time spent factor will be in the vacuum hose set up and cooling hose set up. Patching vacuum lines (a one day project after swap done!) & replacing the water hoses is the wise option at this stage of the game.
Change EVERY sensor you can (ESPECIALLY FAN "ON" SWITCH/COOLING SENSORS!), including thermostat & water pump.
This swap is the EASIEST TIME to do all those sensors.
My biggest failing was changing cooling sensors. Luckily, I broke my fan switch sensor, forcing me to change it. I still have one cooling system sensor to go in my replacing them, four years after the swap.
I wish I knew then while doing the swap. Instead I thought cleaning them was wise & ok. Nope, I learned hard way, take my advice & learn from my mistakes.
ON oil filter house holding bolt MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE THAT "O" RING ON THE BOLT!!!!!!!!!
REBUILD DISTRIBUTOR NOW!
ALL NEW electrics in there!
Especially coil on distb. shaft.
Learn from my mistakes, spend the extra time & pennies for the long term!
I've done 20,000 plus miles after my swap & can attest to the wise suggestions I offer.
NOT THAT I WANT TO TAKE AWAY ONE CHEESE STEAK FROM YOUR BUDGET!
It may also be wise NOW TO change all HEATER CORE (PRE-FORMED GATES OR GOODYEAR ONLY!!!!) HOSES, too! Easy access!!!!
IF any cooling pipes look weak in the welds, go get them touched up NOW! Spend $5-$10 for that patch solder job & a long cooling running car is yours for the finished product. ESPECIALLY BE AWARE OF the cooling pipe above water pump. That's a fragile pipe! Mine cracked there & $5 still a leak free fix!

 

yes it will.

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3507...e-Assembly.htm

I was considering that until I found another company, american engine builders??? They had a 3.4 bored 60 over and did all the goodie head work. I also found a guy to do a twin turbo setup I just had to provide the turbo's from a grand national.

2.8 to 3.4 will definatley be a nice one, especially if you follow these guy's recommendations, also, there is a set of headers I found for the 60Deg motors, it's been a while, but back then, only one dude made them. There might be more now.

the swap should be pretty forward, just expect to break a few vacuum lines

 

We've been thru this discussion before.
headers
PaceSetter exhaust
www.pacesetterexhaust.com
The 60*V6 engine

Ya cannot make any engine INTO A 3.4 due to the metal in the block ain't here thus reliability isn't there.
AND cores of 3.4 starting at $100 it's so easy to do the job right!
AND IF YA "COULD" GM would have done so to save the machining cost of creating a new 60* block of which to build the 3.4.
This same 60*V6 engine is now under hood of the new 2005 Caddys, too, as the "World Class V6".
Serious, the "3.4 engine" that is advertisied, of all 3.4 swappers (atleast 100 so far) NOT ONE has purchased that engine package.
Latest GOOD SCORE find of a 3.4 mill is a 59,000 original miles 3.4 for $650!, complete!!!
It is VERY WISE to score a 3.4 mill of which to bless with your engine talents, honest.

 

twin turbos? two turbos from a grand national?? don't do it! a. GNs are 3.8s, much bigger motor to start with...they need more air...thus requiring a bigger turbo. b. twin turbos really aren't all that they're cracked up to be. single turbos can be as good or better than twin turbo setups.

 

Well, it was what I planned on doing, but I got a free V8, so I swapped.

 

So lets get a list, flat out, of everything needed for a 3.1->3.4 Swap.

After reading tis thread, I called a local junkyard anf got one with 40k miles on it, no leaks, for $700 with trans. I left a deposit on it and immediately ordered pacesetter hedders, hi flow catco cat, catco o2 sensor, and hooker cat back exaust.

Anyone know of a company that makes a pretty intake for the 6'ers... or am I stuck making one like I did for my concorde?

 

ANOTHER GREAT 3.4 SCORE!!!!
Do a search for my tech thread on the 2.8->3.4 long block swap boogie.
I list in very decent details, the majority of the work one needs attending to for a proper successful swap.
You're welcome!
IT's a great project, the swap. Congratulations on the purchase.
AND any questions, give a shout & the MAJORITY of your qustons will be fully answered when both engines out, side by side. Then one can see exactly what is necessary for your swap project.
IT's very little engineering, but mucho attention to details.
Great 3.4 score!!!!

 

thanks! i'm trying to get a turbo kit for it from doward, I figure once I pull that motor and put the new one in, I'm never gonna want to touch it again. Might as well do the turbo setup when I have to motor out. whats the deal with those trueleo intakes? has anyone reported gains/losses in power from it? I'm sure the motor could use a new intake especially with a turbo on it!

I want to get as much power out of this v6 as possible. I have a 350 for the car, but with gas prices, that motor is gonna stay on the stand in the garage until I can afford to drive it daily!

My goal by the end of the summer is to have a Turbo 3.4L Camaro with every possible bolt on engine mod I can find. Heres what I know about/purchased so far: (X= bought already)

[ ] 3.1-.3.4 Swap with new trans
[ ] Dowards Turbo Setup
[ ] Trueleo's Intake
[x] Pacesetter Headers (which get sold on ebay if I get the turbo)
[x] Catco OEM style Hi-Flow Cat
[x] Hooker Super-Comp Cat-Back Exhuast System
[x] Aluminum Driveshaft
[ ] Currie Ford 9" Rear Housing for 82-92 F-Body
[ ] Currie Ford 9" Rear Third Member with 3.70 Gears

Anything else that can be considered a major power adder?

 

check with doward on the possibility of a y-pipe to go with your pacesetters! that would be much better than going back to the stock manifolds. personally, i like the mckinney racing products better than the trueleo.

 

is that your car on the site?

 

The current rear axle can easily live with the power "we" make!
Serious, spend that money elsewhere than rear axle.

 

ked's right even for what alan is making, we don't need to get a better rear, we need posi and better gears. i have great problems with getting the power to stick to the road, not problems with the rear end. if i had posi, look out cause i would be getting better 60' times than what i have been lately.

 

if you're asking me...yes, it is.

 

his car is so so so clean compared to mine, but wait i haven't even started on mine yet!

 

Let me make mine more clear, too
I also mean beef up the axle/gears/spider in the current installed housing.
But spend & buy a custom Ford 9" set up?
NOPE!
Spend that money elsewhere.
Meaning Ya priced complete rear axles assemblies lately?

 

a welder does the trick on spider gears i haven't had a chance to yet, and i won't til i get the new rear end gears, but it is the cheapest way to make a posi rearend. besides what is gonna happen, you break the welds? oh well, get the welder out and weld it again

 

the only problems with welding it... not terribly street friendly. tends to make the car hop and chew up rear tires. tends to make taking corners in the rain interesting (even going slow). and, if you break a weld, yeah you can weld it again. but, if a piece of weld comes out...you tear up your gears. just food for thought.

 

again alan i understand this, i plan on getting a posi unit installed, not welding the spider gears together, i was just stating a low cost way to do it!

 

ok, sorry. i thought you were saying that was what you were planning to do. i thought you should know those things.