alright guys, i'm starting the swap, and i'm doin the prep work. I started to remove the distributor today, to re-build, and i can't seem to get the distributor hold down bolt out. does anyone know an easier way to get to this bolt????

 

i just use a 15mm swivel socket and a 9" extension. takes a bit of finageling (is that even a word? lol) but it will work.

 

Second Opinion: Swivel Socket.

 

That's exactly correct
15mm
And when I replaced mine back in car I couldn't get the bolt down there
I made a stud & got a nut to tighten the hold down clamp. Nut was easier to slip over the stud with hold down clamp on distb.
Good goin!
Enjoy the project, you will.
PS distb seriously gets replaced into the block in one postion. Not much room to goof on that.
IT'S THE ROTOR POINTING AT #1 cylinder that makes difference!
And that position is 7:00 rotor position going to Number 1 passenger front cylinder.
IF rotor does NOT get pointed at #1, then take a screwdriver & stick down there to twist oil pump to let distb SEAT FULLY! Just like you are removign it now, is the way it is to return.
Keep going you're gonna do well

 

well i got the distributor out, and I neglected to mark the rotor. so i re-install the dist. and it just turns and turns when i try to fire it up, checked the firing order of wires, and they were okay. anyone have the steps in correcting this??????

 

you need to get #1 to tdc (the one where it fires, not the one where it pushes out exaust) and then get the rotor pointed towards #1

 

This is so fun and simple
Remove the #1 plug
Put your index finger OVER THE HOLE and have someone crank engine (tap starter not crank it for hours)
and feel what happens!
That is easy way to find TDC
When finger gets pushed off, that's TDC
AND THE TRICK IS TO stop your engine right before ya get that woosh push.
Look at your balancer
Ya should have a line on it right about at timing mark.
Now get the rotor to point as close to exactly the number one cylinder.
"Tighten down distb."
Try firing engine.
Should start right up!
IF IT DON'T
Go to garage & have them fire it up.
No shame in that, I've had to do that to learn finally, too.

 

Well even though he has the distributor out. They do make a wrench specifically for removing the distributor. $10 at Sears. That is what I use.

 

well the car is running again thanks to josh. i've now encountered another problem. car warms up to normal operating temperature, and when coming to a stop it idles really low almost to the point of stalling. it hasn't stalled yet, but it feels like it wants to. could this be a timing issue? thanks guys.

 

could be a timing issue.... I have set it before at 0 degrees on the timing mark, and it slipped to -2 and it just about wanted to die on me.. idle got real low.... Another thing that can cause it i a bad vacuum advance... (it raises the rpm up depending on vacuum of the engine) if it fails the rpm will get low as well... in drive you should be sitting right around 500rpm....in park around 700rpm (in an auto) sticks are about the same though. Another posibility is that the idle screw on the carb is turned to far out and it is not getting enough fuel to maintain a higher idle speed.. On a fuel injected i have no idea since none of mine are FI.

 

oh yea. another thing could be your TC is locked up in 1st gear which could cause it to almost stall out, or completely stall out... just throwing out ideas

 

His ride is a 1990
Your theory is for carb set ups.
More than likely its the timing chain to stretched.
Bump up timing slightly & give it a try that way.