Ok so I replaced the bad water pump on the car (2.8) and then put in a new stat. Well I didnt read the manual and didnt know any better so I just placed the stat in the groove and then put the gasket over the top of it with a little RTV. Well I buttoned it up today and no sooner did I fill the radiator with water it started comin out the stat housing and even worse of course when I ran it.

So apparently I was supposed to make an RTV bead first and then put the stat on top of that. Well it was hard enough to just drop it in the way I did without pulling the upper plenum. Now it seems I'll have to pull the upper plenum if I'm gonna put a bead down. Is that the normal way to do it? If so, is there anything I should know about it like if I need to go get a new intake gasket or anything like that before I do it?

 

use a universal joint or wrench (ratcheting preferably) to get around the plenum issue.

 

It can be done w/o removing the upper half. Just gotta be creative.

 

Well I already did it with universal joint but I was thinking maybe it'd be too hard to get the bead of rtv down with the plenum on. Now that I think more I think I can do it. I have small hands and I managed to get in there a little bit. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

 

when i did mine, i took the throttle body off, but i wanted to get all the carbon cleaned out of it anyway. it made it easier, but still not tons o fun. theyre not too terrible though to do.

 

You know, they DO make gaskets for that particular thing.

Seriously, though, you can either buy a gasket (there is one for the 2.8 style t-stat, and there is one for the 3.1 style t-stat, don't think they interchange though) or you can try to put the RTV bead on the HOUSING, not the intake manifold. And don't try to fill the system until the RTV has had a couple hours to set...

 

"placed the stat in the groove and then put the gasket over the top of it "

Think maybe you missed that part...

Yesterday I pulled it all back off and came across someone who mentioned this stuff called "the right stuff" which is also made by permatex but its something a little more special. I think the can said its isomeric rubber something or other. Its thick and really tacky right out of the can and is supposedly good to make valve cover and oil pan gaskets and what not. Its not leaking now that I filled the radiator and hopefully wont leak once I start it up and rev it some. Didnt put in the paper gasket this time

The stuff seemed pretty cool and the only thing that bothered me was that I could have smeared it out of place a bit trying to get that dang housing back in there under the throttle body. Hoping it holds once I start it up.

 

DO let the RTV stuff set for a couple hours before you start the engine.

16 PSI of coolant is sure to ruin your day if the RTV hasn't had time to set yet.

DON'T button up the cooling system until you have started the engine and let it run for a couple minutes to relieve the air bubble created under the stat.

Let the engine warm up to operating temperature before you are positive the RTV doesn't leak.

 

I did it yesterday so it should be dry as can be, and also this stuff I used says the equipment can go back into service immediatly unlike the RTV which supposedly cures in 24 hours...not sure if I believe it can dry so fast but I still let it sit a day and I have not started it yet even.

Thanks for the info

 

BTW, a little tip:

Filling the system is a little easier if you squeeze the upper hose with your hand as you are filling the system. It helps to relieve the aforementioned air bubble, but starting the engine is a good way to completely get rid of the bubble.

 

HEHE, yea I kinda found that out. I was running with cap open to try and clear it out and it got hot and then started spewing out and I was hoping the stat would kick in and I started squeezin the upper to see if it was hot and had pressure yet and it then sucked fluid in and then the radiator went half way down instantly.

Seems to be holding fluid though. My next project is getting my electric fan working right. I dont think its coming on. I tested it and it works hooked direct to battery. I'm also going to try and see if the A/C switch will turn it on. I did alot of searchin on the subject on the forum but still dont know where the switches and relays are for sure since so many cars are different. If I have to I'll ground it and have it running all the time although I'd rather it be right.

I've got a Delta FK35 controller sitting on my desk to go with a 94 Cobra fan for my Mustang. I wish I had two of those but I'm not gonna drop another 115 bucks on one for the camaro

 

To test the fan motor circuit, disconnect the electrical connector for the switch that is mounted in one of the A/C lines that run along the passenger side frame rail. The fan should come on.

The relay is mounted next to the brake booster. The two primary wires are the tan with black stripe, and a black with red stripe. Connecting those two together should turn the fan ON (tan/wht is ign on +12VDC source, black/red is relay OUT to the fan), and if they don't, you have to go hunting for a broken wire or bad input voltage...

I'm having the same problem myself, or so I think... My engine doesn't quite seem to get hot enough to turn the fan on, though... Going to have to figure that one out, I guess...

You can also buy a thermostatic switch, or somehow rig the motor up so that it uses an ignition ON input voltage (tan/white on relay) and the stock fan switch (the thing mounted in the rear corner of the passenger side cyl head with a single wire coming out of it) as the ground.

 

I picked up a new relay yesterday and was going to first try and play with the one on there now that I know which connectors do what since the new relay shows the schematic on top(factory was worn off). Hopefully thats all it is. Thanks for the info, it will be helpful to trouble shoot it. I found alot of threads about the cooling fan problems but most of them are for V8 cars naturally and wasnt sure where to find the switch and relay on this car easily.

 

I know it's been a bit, but there is also a fuse in the main panel marked C/H FAN. This one also controls the alternator, so if it's dead, you will also have charging probs (as if you don't have enough already).

 

HEHE...yea I found that fuse was fine when I first got the car.

Yesterday I checked relay and found it was good and hotwired the fan by grounding the green wire with relay in just to test if it would work. I changed the fan switch in the head so all should be good now as long as it grounds like its sposed to.

Now I've got the ugly clanking sound which I'm hoping isnt the bottom end of motor messin up.

 

When you changed the fan switch, you did NOT use any sort of sealant, did you? If so, remove the switch and install it without any sealant, which can screw with the proper grounding of the switch.

 

Well I sort of thought of that but I put some antisieze on it. Perhaps that could mess it up. I guess I might try that sometime thanks.