... has been removed. Unfortunately there's many people who relieve their frustration with their own lives by stifling other people's creativity and hard work. The only way to avoid people like that is by ignoring them otherwise you become a target, do a search on the people below and you'll see what I mean.

 

Hmmmm part 1 135-200hp??? those mods will get you no were near 200hp. And putting 24 pound injectors on a n/a v6 is crazy. I never heard of doubling up gaskets on the intake manifold im not saying it doesnt work just never seen it done. putting a 91-92 3.1 cam in a 2.8 isnt gonna give u a noticeable gain. Also 93-95 rwd 3.4's dont have roller rockers or roller cams/lifters. low 12's from 7 psi making 300hp huh?

 

Doubling the gaskets will hurt your top end power even more if it did anything... Dont waste your time with the double gaskets, itll only cause more trouble..

 

Yeah I was thinking the same along with "WTF is this guy thinking" came to mind a few times also "He can't be serious", then somewhere in there realized that either he IS joking, he hangs out with the ricers that think stickers give them power and heard about a 'mad tuner mod, yo', and is regurgitating that hear, or he's just plain stupid.

 

Good call on the '93-'95's not having rr's or lifters, but since obviously none of you have tried the mods outlined here none of your opinions mean spit. I own a g-tech performance meter and have performed all the mods in part 1, as well as fabricating my own exhaust system. The meter recorded exactly 159 rwhp @ 4655 rpm. When corrected for altitude (I live in denver) and assuming there is 15% drivetrain loss this puts me at 227 flywheel hp. Subtract the power benefit of the open exhaust and that puts you at about 200 flywheel hp. Before you guys get everyone confused; A) At least 24 lb/hr injectors would be neccecary to support the mods in part 2 because 24 lb/hr injectors will support up to 288 hp, by raising the psi to 55 they can support up to 314 hp. Do the math; B) 300 rear wheel hp in a 3250 lb car with a well tuned suspension will give you exactly 12.875 sec quarter time at 105.75 mph. Do the math!; C) I hate rice boys. Pure and simple, I hate rice boys.

Don't make judgements of other people you have no knowledge of and expect not to look like an a** hole. Anyone else that's willing to be civilized is free to post, but the opinions of an a** hole aren't worth what comes out of one.

 

listen im not being a **** im trying to let people kno the truth i dont want newbies coming on hear reading this garbage and doing this to there cars and posting on hear why dont i have a fast car like this guy claims i will. gtechs are very unaccurate first off. if your car has 200fwhp then mine must run 14's lmfao. Ok so if you want to see how much hp you actually have take it to a dyno and see numbers that dont lie. no n/a v6 would ever need 24 pound injectors period. Listen paul walker your post is one big ***** list of gains. Learn before you open your mouth caz you obviously you dont kno **** about cars to believe/ write this bs. You say you hate ***** boys so why are u one? Post dyno results and time slip before you talk ****. I hope u realize that inreality you may have 150fwhp if your lucky. just going over your post again to make sure im not wrong your post goes good until it hits part 1 then the rice begins. All your hp gains are false for every mod in part one. Also if you put a 3.1 cam in a 2.8 and u claim 15-20hp then why do 3.1's only have 5 more hp then 2.8's?

 

If you're not trying to be an a** then why are you? Like I said, an a** hole's oppinion isn't worth what comes out of one.

 

135-200 range:
5hp by removing the coolent lines? WTF No way.

Doubling the intake gaskets to create a larger plenium? the so little amount that will add is so small you wont notice it.

Unless the "ram air" is truely directed to outside, which is hard on these cars, your creating a warm air intake, which reduces all efforts of smooting out the intake path. Let alone the steel/aluminum dryer duct absorbs heat making it worse. Atleast make it with pvc.

some people have problems with removing maf screens. Let alone ones who dont, the effort isnt worth the gain.

cat removed. While you may gain top end, you loose low end. BTW, this is fully illegal in any state.

fuel pressure. The few mods mentioned in this section will not justify needing more fuel. As well, if were trying to be real cheap, we can shim the stock with a cut up aluminum can rather then breaking any laws. (BTW, stock 2.8 injectors are weak 15lb, 3.1 are 15.5, and 3.4 are 17)

You can port to al-be-hell and still not confuse the ecm. Which I have almost every bolt on mod done on the stock ecm and its still working.

All said here will not even get you 150hp. this section done.

NEXT
200-300 range
cam. The 2.8 and 3.1 use the same damn cam. And the 3.4 cam is so close that it replaced the 2.8/3.1 from gm. Its not worth the effort to swap.

rockers. 2000+ FWD motors use roller fulcrum rockers. They will not fit on a RWD engine. Not only are they to wide, the studding is totally different. I have some here if you want me to take pics?. Check your facts before you post your **** idiot. They all use the same pushrods too. These are the same ratio, so all your netting is a hair less friction if they did work.

FWD intake has been talked on here. As well if you going to do this, there are gen2 and gen3. The gen3 is better. Anyway, there has to be some major custom work done to make this fit as it hits the dizzy. You also have to custom fab headers to make all this work. Anyone who knows how to do this conversion is more advance then this post is worthy of.

So since the rockers dont work, and little people have ability to do a FWD swap. We have netted absolutely nothing from this section... we except a good exhaust setup done by a reputable shop. BTW, you cant run true duals on this setup because we only have 1 o2 sensor that needs a constant reading.

NEXT

300+
Why buy ls1 valve springs when we have such a varity of other things? GM stuff is more over priced then most aftermarket parts. And why have someone modify stock parts when you can buy better aftermarket stuff if were going to this level?

Turbo, now were talking!! But I dont know turbos, and not going to read all that.

But to some it all up. 300hp? Doward has alot more then all mentioned here and he might be 300 at the fly.

Take your smack else where and lets delete this thread

 

thank you for all the people that realized this guy is clueless about what crap he post. Im gonna stop replying to this post since i dont wanna get banned for arquing with somebody who doesnt kno what hes talking about. Ill try to watch my language moderators i just can stand ricers giving us v6 guys who already hear enough crap from v8 guys a bad name.

 

ok, heres some numbers.

19lb injectors at stock psi rating will support up approx a 200hp v6 engine. You would need 250hp at stock psi rating to support 24lb.

As for your penium gasket. I dont have my cad program at home, so this is all est errored in your favor.

1 runner size, w/o rounded cornors is 1.75x1.00x.125. That is .21875 cubic inches. So that x6 = 1.3125 cubic inches(all errored in your favor). All for that of an engine that requires atleast a 2liter bottle plenium. Trust me, thats more costly and risk creating a vac leak then its worth. And if you think adding .125 to the runner lenth of est 22" long, HA.

 

those goals for the horsepower is impossible.

 

The above pictured engine is mine,I reserached it, I built it, I installed it (With a little help from my friends), I enjoy/beat the fvck out of it. I think I know what I'm talking about.

FYI, the above pictured engine is a 1986 2.8L block, with a 1992 (FWD) 3.1 crank, Federal Mogul hypereutectic pistons, GMPP cam, home made headers, T3 Garrett turbo (from a turbo coupe), along with many other little pieces and parts, that were never meant to be assembled together.

I DYNOED, yes a real honest to goodness, in the floor dyno, at 218 RWHP, and 270 ft/lbs, that equates to about 250 HP, and 310 ft/lbs, at 15% drivetrain loss, which brings me to another point, learn to do math, 15% of 159 HP is 23.85, which would bring you to 182.85, a far cry from your supposed 227hp. :roll:

Oh BTW, I made 250 HP on 19 lbs/hr injectors, so bull**** you need 24 lbs/hr injectors.

I could sit here all night and pick apart everything you said, but I'd be wasting my time, and anyone who could make any serious modifications, would smell the bull**** before even opening this thread, like I did, before I posted the first time.

Now, shut up, before you get put in your place, you know nothing about physics or how to gain power from an engine, that IS obvious from your posts here.

BTW you know absolut;y nothing about turbocharging, as indicated by your "part 3". The info that you have listed is so outdated and has been proven to be myth, just like everything else you have posted here.

 

my head just exploded i would be lucky to see 200 flywheel horse power on my NA 3.4...please

 

Just to add:

You can have any two of the following:

Cheap, powerful, reliable.

You can have power cheap but it won't be reliable
You can have power reliable but it won't be cheap
You can have it cheap and realiable, but it won't be powerful.

 

six, I forget. What ecm are you running that on?

 

7730, with a TGP PROM. The programming is stock for now, but will be modified when I bring it back out. I am also going to attempt to use the 749 with a modified Sy/Ty .bin, especially when I do get the dizzy to work.

 

So the 7730, with a FWD harness for the coil pack setup.

 

Yep, I started with an '88 2.8L harness (manual) from a Cavalier Z24, cut it, hacked it, and rebuilt it to fit my truck.

If you are wanting to use the same set-up in your F-body, you won't need to change the harness though, you can just change the plugs, the wires are all the same, pretty much. You'll have to add the 7x trigger wheel though, but I believe you have a 3.4, right?

I'll be working on a new part though, to retain the dizzy and use the genIII top end, that I hope to be able to also sell to other enthusiats looking to do the same.

 

yeah alot of that... I am going huh? ...
removing the cat may increase HP but will kill your Trq.

I KNOW this from experience on a V6 3.1 5 Speed. Hell I had the factory, a test pipe and a high flow all installed back to back same day.
The test pipe... the car had recessed *****. Absolutely no grunt.
The high flow... Woo a ball dropped and it had a little.
The stocker... Big and hairy... performed the best Trq wise.

If you attempt to install 2 lower intake gaskets, your begging for a leak. Plain and simple. The two angles get closer, while the aluminum stays the same. Upper? go for it smooth out the transistion alittle.

I will not even go into the TB coolant... your talking about making a 10th of
.5* difference at speed, and even if that.

I will stop... there is just so much, my head hurts...

 

Six, I have never gotten along with any dizzy. I'd kinda like to go away with it. I like the FWD idea, but not the idea of having to change pistons n all that crap.

So, I'd kinda like to go sfi/dizzy less.
replace my bad PS pump with one from a 3.4 that has coil pack mount.
Ditch my ac thats never worked.
I have 3.4 block, and still have the 3.4 TC cover(i can put it back on).
This would also elimiate the coil over the headers.

Then maybe down the road if I keep this car, swap to FWD top end.

 

dont ya love how when someone is SEVERLY proven wrong on here they tend to "go away" and not reply to their posts. i read this and hoped to the heavens that this would slaughtered apart, and not only by me. but i havent been around in a day and a half so you all beat me to it, lol. there is sooooo much in that post that is just amazing. 10 hp for ever degree???? so by advancing to 14 degrees, i can gain 40hp? sheeaatt, id be taking all kinds of V8s a long time ago. the high flow air filter part, someone has been watching too much Horsepower TV. im going to stop here just because my eyes started to bleed from reading this. dont we all wish it was that easy for this much power. and oh yeah bluechrome, if it really was that easy,dont you think most of us would have found this a long time ago?

 

Well you don't have to swap the pistons, but you'll just get a rediculously high SCR, great for throttle responce though. I'm just wondering what "all that crap" is, besides the pistons.

If you don't want your dizzy, send it my way, I have some experimenting to do.

Don't waste time, do the FWD top end swap ASAP, if you are looking to put the 3.4 in, do the top end swap now, you will NOT, ever regret it.
I could help you out with it, with info and maybe even some parts, if I have some that you need. I may have a set of pistons from a 3400, but I'll have to check for sure.

 

from what ive read, if you left the stock 3.4 pistons, you would be at a 14.75 or so compression ratio (thats from fullthrottlev6.com, i think his name is 3400blackv6, or something like that, hes the only guy whose done it) would our engine even run on that kind of compression ratio?

heres the thread on it, good info. http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ead.php?t=8260

 

I would swap the pistons cause at 9 or 9.5:1 SCR, 8deg, 93oct, I'm pinging on the hills. And "all that crap" refures to heads, intake, headers. Let alone, if I swap pistons I gotta rehone the cyls, which I've heard has to be presice.

If you need a dizzy for a month, maybe 2, I have one I'll loan you. Its got a stripped hole that I would like to fix and put back in the car.

My 3.4 is in, and has been for 2 years

Main thing is cost, and welding up some headers. I got time, tools, location.

 

Ahh, but see the aluminium head top end even at the same SCR will be less prone to detonation, due to the superior heat transfer abilities of aluminium. The hone has to be as precise as any other hone, no more so than the pistons you already have in there, if you've been told otherwise.

Nah, I'd need to cut the dizzy up.

I though your 3.4 was in, but the way you worded your last post sounded like it was still on a stand.

For the headers you can start with existing genI headers and modify the flanges to fit the D-shape port and bolt spacing. The CLs of each port are the same between all three generations of 660, just the bolt spacing tes wider on the genII/III heads, and then the genIII gets the D-shape.

[peer pressure] Come on, you wanna do it, you know you do [peer pressure]