was minor work but its still something done

i finally got all the wiring under the dash straightened out,and i managed to get my tri pilar mounted along with my water temp/boost,vac/and a/f gauges wired.

though i find out the tri pillar pod my friend gave me was for a t-top car,so i had to cut and modify that,i got it to fit perfectly

now i just have to get the stock tach out of the cluster,so i can mount my 5 inch tach that was on the pillar into the stock tachs location(have v8 145mpg cluster so stock tach dosent read right),and mount the shift light onto the pillar pod
and the final thing to do in the interior will be to get a new headliner,and make a fiberglass sub enclousure to replace the heavy has **** 3/4 mdf enclosure i have now

pillar installed

and im thinking this is were ima place the shiftlight

or i may install it under the dash pad cover in between the speedo and fuel qauge to keep it out of sight

 

no insult intended but why even keep the gay shift light? i have been driving sticks my whole life with the exeption of my camaro and i have never used one. hell 90% of the time i dont even use the tach. shift by feel/sound is the best! on a different note why not just put a small LED in the gauge cluster somewheres near the tach if ya really need it? would look a million times better IMO.

P.S. only settled for an auto cause the car was given to me.

 

i like the shift light cause i bracket race so shifting at the same rpm every run is very important(trans is a full manual automatic) must make every up and downsift)so instea dof paying attention to the tach i can keep my eyes on the track/guy im racing

 

i guess there is that to consider but i would still use a small high intensity LED that you won't notice when you dont need it but when i does illuminate it will be just as bright as that big ole sore thumb. you could even put it in the A-pillar in that blank space above the water temp gauge.

 

well i might get a prolight since they are real tiny only reason i was gonna use that one is cause its all i have right now

 

is that the finished install? The gauges look all lopsided and ****. Why did you use different brands of gauges it looks kinda funny cause they dont match

 

i dont car about looks there there for function,not style,(also this is budget build so thats what i had laying around thats what i used,the 200$'s those three gauqes would have cost me to buy new ones that were all the same,can go twards my new tq converter or other parts that wil make the car run,when everything is done engine/drivetrian wise and i have the money to spend ill go back and get new gauges)
and i took the pics when i first put the pillar up so i had to quess were to rotate the gauqes,there all stright up and down now with the exception of my a/f ratio gauge wich i turn a lil bit so i had better visibilty of the lean range,since lean a/f ratio + turbocharged motor isnt good
edit oh and only the water gauge is a diff brand,boost/a/f are the same and black is the only color u can get that brand a/f gauqe in

 

I always thought that A/F guages were silly. Now you can see if you're rich or lean, but what are you going to do about it while you're racing?.

What kind of sensor are you using for that A/F guage? Are you using an actual A/F Sensor, or an O2 to get the signal?

Any real tuning is done on a dyno with the correct equipment. The guage is just there for looks IMO.

 

the a/f gauge uses an o2 sensor just lik every other one ive seen,though its not as accurate as the stuff used on dyno's(they all use wideband o2 and wideband metters)it still accurate to a point.while im racing if the motor goes lean i can get off it without damaging my motor,its just there for extra insurance,u gota remebr im doing a turbo setup and this all has to be tuned with a fmu/computer tunning,and without a dyno or data logging this is really the ony other way to keep an eye on it during everyday driving,and racing .
lol it would be kinda hard to stare at my laptop while racing or driving

 

O2 sensors aren't accurate at all. Even if you are at 14.8:1, the O2 will peg lean. All they do is say if there is more or less oxygen in the exhaust than in the outside air.

You can buy a guage with an actual A/F sensor, but they are expensive.

What you should do is get data logging software for a laptop so that it records RPM, vehicle speed, A/F mixture and Air Flow, then you can look at it later and then flash a prom as needed. But you already know that.

 

IIRC the wide bands are honestly more accurate. The stock ones work/function properly in a short range. Thats why most tuning and full bore race cars have wide bands.

 

Exactly...

O2 sensors only report that difference in Oxygen in the exhaust as compared to ambiant air. Anything lean will peg the O2 at low voltage and vise versa.

Widebands are completly different in that they vary a reference voltage in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the stream rather than creating their own voltage. Widebands will actaully tell you how much more or less O2 there is in the stream and stay there until it changes.

 

I thought i remembered reading on 3GO that this was a show car as well thats the only reason i brought it up

 

plans for this car have changed,i have 2 irocs that if i want are much nicer and need less work to become a show car

2.8boy i already have the laptop for data loging burnng new chips etc