Anyone currently working on one?, i know their was alot of talk about them but haven't heard anything

truelo wants too much for a steel one imho

 

every car i have ever heard of with a truelow intake has actually slowed down in the 1/4 mile lmao though i dont know of anyone that ha sonly installed the intake and not done other mods.(could have been a combinatipon of the intake with bad mods. i did see on here once somone have a upper tpi plenum welded to the v6 runners,and that also used the v8 tb.i may attempt to do this myself on the turbo engine.there was also somone attempting to do a 3.4 style intake with tubbing but i dont know what ever became of that

 

my buddy who was working on it for me kinda ran into some problems w/ his own cars so its been put on hold for a lil while. when we do get a chance to get it all welded up and on, ill let everyone know how it does.

 

I put my custom one on about a year ago. the car went quicker in the 1/4 even with a busted piston in it... i'm working on getting new, good pistons and rings in it now. so, hopefully in a month or so, we'll see where my car stands, now.

 

keep us updated, i'm very interested in getting a new upper plenum atleast

 

HA!! Alan, you're no farther along with your motor than I am!!

Hopefully, that'll change over this summer

 

we modified the 3.4 intake to work...pics are on here somwhere

 

I need to get my MTC-5 in, and then start working on an intake.

Still havent decided on a style I may try a few actually if it proves to be fun and not overly costly.

 

Whatver you heard about the Trueleo not working is BS...Redraif has the first one built, and there was an improvement all across the rpm range, especially in torque. The only higher torque numbers I have seen from a 60 were with turbos. Trueleo doesn't want us to release numbers until our tune is better (still waiting on the chips)...the a/f ratio is way off, and the car is now apart for a few other upgrades and detailing. Even with the tune being so far off, its by far the single largest gain the car has seen, including the 3.4 swap!!! Be patient, once we get the tune right there will be dyno numbers and 1/4 mile times.

Being steel has no appreciable effect on the performance, and it doesn't heat up excessively (the actual temps are listed in another post, after driving 45 miles in ATL traffic and a few dyno pulls). Sure, it doesn't sound as cool as saying you have aluminum, but even new cars don't come with aluminum anymore...plastic is superior to both. As far as cost goes, get some quotes on laser cut custom flanges, mandrel bent tubing, powdercoating, and then add up all the hours required to make jigs, cut tubing, and do all the welding. Throw in the custom chip (we originally didn't request it), and its amazing they can sell it for what they do. The only better alternative right now would be Hogan, and I doubt they would even build one...if they did, you'd be looking at $2500 or so.

 

I'm still working on mine... I'll have more on it, in about another month or two...

 

While this post is up top....

1. Say someone was to make a full double chamber/split, whatever. How do you hook up the booster and map?

2. Since the 2.8/3.1 has the tiny holes down in the lower 1/3, would it really be benifical to have a dual?

3. How would you wire up the IAC's? you would need both. You would only need one TPS though. Then yes you have the thottle cables as well.

4. Does the 4.3/305/350 vortec 6xmm TB cable hook up the same way down at the throttle peddle as ours? Do all there TPS/IAC, etc all electronically work the same?

Any other ideas and advice welcome

 

If you're using two plenums, I would link them with the vaccum lines so that the readings are equalized for the booster and MAP...not sure if its completely necessary, though.
It would depend on how large the throttle bodies are, and how much you opened up the lower intake.
I would think you could just split the wires and go to both IACs (I'd use two new ones from the same manufacturer, though, to be sure they open at the same rate), and just use one TPS. You could either weld a bar to attach to both throttle body linkages, or possibly machine a new shaft that would go through both throttle bodies. IMHO though, on an engine of this size I doubt its worth all the effort. I'd use a single plenum, and a throttle body with lots of size options. The best I have found for that is the Ford 5.0 style monoblade; you can go from 58mm to over 100mm, with plenty of sizes in between.
For a throttle cable, we used the original pedal end and the rest is Lokar cut-to-fit. Should work in nearly any application.

 

If someone really wanted to play around with intakes you can make them out of sheet metal. [some call home made aluminum intakes sheet metal but, im talkin real sheet metal.] Seen an article once about them, they are illegal cause of the power they produce. But any heating or AC guy can bend sheet into any shape. Only take ya n hr to make an intake and test it once ya know how to bend stuff. But AUK it doesn't do round shapes, only square. Which is ok for racing, most run square ports.

Just need to fab a bracket so the intake isn't supporting the TB, just hooked to it.

 

no offense to redraifs car but with all that work the car is so ****ing slow.mine has gone 14.8 with a 2.8.No nitrous/no turbo with the stock manifold with less engine mods then her car and that was before the gear swap.and u cant say well ur car must me lighter caus emy race wieght is 3850

 

So really a dual TB is basically a waist unless its real radical.


Anyone got some ideas on shapes, designs?


Gumby, I know the sheetmetal ones, but I dont have the tools for that. So its other materials for me.

 

You'd be slow too with an 11:1 A/F ratio! We didn't have access to a wideband before, and with proper tuning the 1/4 mile times are going to drop significantly. I'm fully expecting low 14s based on the torque numbers, and that is on a lowered car.
14.8 with a 2.8? I'm calling BS on that one. It would take 234 HP under perfect conditions to do that, and no 2.8 is going to make that NA, esp not through a stock intake.You sure that wasn't your 1/8th mile time?

 

call bs if u like,but its been done and my car has put down a proven 225hp
btw i never said there wasnt work done to the intake

 

I'm not asking you to give away any secrets, but what has been done to get that much out of it? Something is far from stock; you cant get numbers like that from just bolt ons. Sorry if I came off a little harsh, but there are so many smacktalkers on the boards that talk big numbers that I am automatically very sceptical.

 

it is far from stock in a way,stock ported heads(wild porting)the heads have been milled way down with reworked chambers.the intake has been ported from plenum to base,a true ram air setup,a very big cam(power range is 3,500-7,500)msd with 2 step, 3 k converter/trans swap,4:10 rear gears,not to mention a full reworked rear and front suspension.(shortened tq arm,all poly mounts relocated lca,s,drag shocks)full ex system,and massive computer tunning,and some other things along with that

 

Ok, that makes a lot more sense. Not at all what I imagined from your intial description!

 

lol i dont mess around. i just think redraif has some really mismatched parts.i should be going mid to low 12's soon once i get the turbo installed(which im supposed to start on friday and hopefully be done on sunday night)

 

Speed hasn't been her primary goal with the car (if it were the V6 would be long gone), and she has a limited budget. Plus, it does still have to pass emissions (not a visual, thankfully). Some of the things that are most criticized for being mismatched have given the best gains, and some things have been done in anticipation of future mods, rather than having to do things twice...the car isn't near finished, and probably never will be. Until recently, there wasn't much good performance info on these engines either, much less off the shelf parts. Once we finish the tuning, I think a lot of people are going to be very surprised at what a stock bottom end NA 3.4 can do.

 

Her car does weight quite a bit. IIRC she has ALOT of dyno mat, system, and apperance things that add weight and possibly damage air travel over the car. Let alone, the last tires I saw she had on the car werent the best for grip.

 

I'm glad to see that little spat didn't escalate any further than it did Play nice, everyone!

btw, I, too, am awaiting to see what happens with RedRaif's car... I also understand what it's like, not wanting to buy the same part twice

 

Yes, thats what I was referring to...and because she wants the car to do several things well, it isn't really optimized for any one thing. Some changes have been made recently though that will counteract some of the extra weight, though...the tubular K-member/A-arms, and the coil overs dropped 75 pounds off the front end, plus I moved the battery to the spare tire compartment in the rear. The stereo isn't going away, so this will more than counteract the extra weight.The coilovers are going to give the front suspension more tuneability (easy to change the springs), and an adjustable torque arm is in the works. Lastly, the wheels and tires are going soon! And no, the new ones won't have red stripes!!! The new wheel/tire combo is going to be more oriented towards handling and looks, but she has a pair of drag radials on stock rims and just needs a pair of skinnies for drag use.
Oh, and for anyone still doubting the Trueleo...the torque gain was over 40 lb/ft, even with the horrible tune!

 

Yea, I remember she mainly started with a show car. And yes, its hard to do everything in one car. Knew you all had trouble with tubular a-arms. Didnt know you went to cross member and coil-overs though. Thats nice.

I didnt care about the red strip tires, thats owners choice. But I did hear alot of comments that they didnt grip that well (not from her, from others).

Hurry up and put it back together, its show season!!!

 

Yes ,the old PA Racing a-arms cracked, but from what they said they had a sub-contractor make some of them when they got behind and they used sub-standard materials. They refunded her, and nothing was damaged, so no problem. We chose not to go with a coil spring type again, since the spring pocket is what caused the stress that broke the tubing in the first place. An AJE dealer made her a great deal on the package, and its the reinforced road race version, so we should be fine. I did have to make a plate to extend the motor mount pad slightly to work with the V6, but that was no big deal.
I agree, the Scorchers don't provide near enough grip ,esp with all the low end torque combined with the lowering. You wouldn't think that a V6 car would spin the tires so easily, esp with a/f issues, but it would blow them off at will.
We still have a couple weeks worth of work to do, so hopefully it won't miss too many more shows!

 

just depends on the tire design. If it is a **** poor tire, anything can smoke 'em at will.
And from what I recall of the 'scorchers' (spl?) they were really bad for traction, Kinda like the kumho 711's... absolutely worthless on anything with any kind of Trq above 150...

I have even seen 711's burn off all tread when the guy only had a mild 305 and not even power braking (to spin them)... just a 2K launch (or attempted launch I should say).

 

http://www.deadbird.org/swin/uploads...1141191507.jpg

 

how well did that 3.4 manifold work.cause im looking to do something after this weekend after i get my turbo on.was thinking about welding the tpi upper plenum to the v6 runners.there was pics of that done somewere on here

 

As a guess, it will be awhile beofe the motor makes it into the car. He's wanting to get the bay painted first.