I have been dealing with this stalling problem now for almost two years, and it has lessened my love for my car, but she's still my baby. 3 mechanics couldn't tell me, and a bunch of other car nuts couldn't either. I then talked to two retired GM mechanics that told me it sounds like the TCC switch/solenoid. I read some posts and they say to temporarily get over this problem unplug it. Is that all there is to a temporary quick fix?? I did some research and could find nothing about unpluging anything. I did find a very informative page where the guy actually documented his problem with his '88 monte carlo SS. I find that when driving in OD I am more likely to stall out at lower rpm's, whereas in D its less likely but still a problem. Has anbody actually replaced the TCC switch/solenoid, and if so please tell me how that went. I don't wanna just unplug it and hope for the best right now, but if I did unplug it would I be able to tell anything from doing that?? Thanks for taking the time.

 

well, to start off, i've had the same problem. My first camaro drove me INSANE with the stalling so I just simply bought another V6 that THANKFULLY behaves itself. my sister has a 2.8L v6 that stalls ESPECIALLY during times when its hot out. Her only cure was to drop it into neutral and start the car up again. My dad's a mechanic and he's absolutely dumbfounded when hes asked why it stalls. He tried everything. He brought the car to some of his co-workers and friends that own garages, and nothing. Anything that they hooked the car up to says the car is driving fine. I guess its just a V6 mystery. All the problem brought on was a lot of new parts and yet the stalling continues. I'd give it a shot, what have you got to lose besides MAYBE not stalling out anymore? Hope all is well, and if you find a cure be sure to let me know! Good Luck!!

 

You guys might want at look at some previous posts cause this is and will be a constant problem with V6's and some V8s.Personally my car was doing it ,everytime I came to a light.My brake booster was bad,which is an easy check..just start the car...let it idle...press the brake pedal and make note of the RPMS or idle condition if it gets irratic or unstable the booster is bad.If you pull codes and get nothing but a code 12 which most people think its normal ...there is an actual code 12 ??...its a loss of referance signal.Whats happening is the computer is losing a signal from the distributor and shutting down.Your problem will lie in the pick up coil/magnet on the distributor and /or the ignition module.I did both due to age and car runs like new.

 

This HAS to be the most often said response, but i will say it again cause it is 90% of the time the right one! get a Vac gauge and check the vacume. If the vacume is to low that means there is air getting into the lines some where and that is air that the ECU has not accounted for in its Fuel/AIR calculations plus the IAC needs Vacume to work properly. To big of a leak and the car will stall consistently. if all else fails Unplug and cap all lines that are unnessisary for the engine to run.

How do i know that this is probably the cause? i had the same problem on my car, so i started dissconnecting and plugging the lines that were connected to them one by one till i found the part that was causing my problem. Mine was that at some point in the past the the lines on the EVAP canister had been disconnected and when they reinstalled them one of the hoses got kinda folded over and this left a gap that even tho it was quite small(less than 1/8" square) it was enough to make the car stall if i didnt put it in neutral as soon as i came to a stop.

P.S. rubber cracks enough to leak over time yet it will look ok the eye. Its Cheep and easy to change do that first and you will probably find a disconnected line somewhere.

 

Loss of reference signal is normal, because the car isnt running. So its not getting any signal from the p/u coil to fire the ignition..... Because it's not running. It's a normal code to pull, I used to get it every time