Hi all,

I have owned V6 f-body's for 10 years yet have only just discovered this board through a friend

I have a problem with my KITT replica. it won't start.

Symptoms are that it cranks but just won't catch and start. read the ecu codes with the guide on this site and it flashes "12" all the time indicating it has no faults. the fuel pump starts and runs and when a mechanic had a look he removed a spark plug and said there's definately fuel there (but may be drownding the plug as there could be too much?).

Any ideas?

Cheers

Peter

 

Well, you need 3 things to start an engine...

Fuel, Air and Spark.

You need to check to make sure that you actaully have adequate fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Sometimes pumps run, but they don't build enough pressure to actaully start the car.

Second, make sure that you are getting a spark to the plugs. This is where I would put money if it were me. Our cars tend to go through ignition parts like candy.

If you have both spark and fuel, then it's time to hook up the vacuum guage and get an intake manifold reading while you crank it. Make sure you have a fully charged battery for this because slow cranking will cause false readings.

 

does it crank slowly? if it does it could be a worn out starter,
I had this problem before and that was my problem.

There are other causes, it could be a battery or battery cable problem, spark plugs might not be gapped properly or your distributor could be loose.

this is by no means the only things that could be wrong, but at least its a place you could start looking.

I'm sure other guys may have additional ideas on things you could check, but I do hope this helps a little.

 

I had to replace my ICM, same kinda issues with my car. Only takes a few minutes to fix. I decided to keep it GM, all the research I did steered me away from the aftermarket ones. Hope I could help.

 

Thanks for the help guys, i really appreciate it.

Managed to get it started this morning but the SES light stayed on. Again, using the guide from this forum i tracked it down to a code 42, which is a problem in the fuel cutoff relay circuit. that's what the first guy who looked at it said it might be. I ordered a fuel pump relay (which i'm told is the fuel cut off relay, bearing in mind i live in the UK, and have no idea of such things, is this the correct part?) so now i just need to locate where it is to replace it when it arrives

Peter

 

Code 42 is for the EST circuit on 2.8L and ESC Circuit on 3.1L motors, nothing to do with the fuel pump relay.

 

I'm just going off the guide for reading the codes i found on this board? and it's the same as what the first mechanic thought it might be when there was no codes coming up?

Peter

Ps. what's the ESC circuit?

 

OK, fuel pump relay didn't work

42.Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR Fault at direct ignition system OR Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit

Anyone know what is the most probable cause for this code and how do i fix it

Getting desperate now.

Peter

 

You don't have DIS or a fuel cutoff relay so concentrate on the ESC module.
Check this thread - it will show you where the module is. Make sure it's plugged in.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ght=ESC+module

Make sure the EST connector is plugged in too, although that should'nt keep the car from starting.

 

It would if the timing is too far retarded. With computer advance it would start, but as soon as you went to base timing with 0 advance, it is much harder to start as an example.

 

I learn something new every day on this board. Thank you!!

 

Thanks for that mate. Trouble is my engine firewall looks nothing like that. i'm supposed to have 3 relays in like a box at the top drivers side of the firewall. fuel pump, fan and air con. but i know the fan one was found elsewhere (don't know if it was shifted. Is the ESC a relay? does it look like a relay?

Peter

 

Sounds like your steering wheel is on the wrong side too!! Anyway, you don't say in your original post what year or engine you have. If you have a knock sensor then you'll have an ESC module unless the cars sold overseas did'nt include this? The ESC module is a rectangular black box, much bigger than a relay, and is usually mounted on the firewall or next to the fuel pump relay on TPI cars.

Depending on the engine and year, you may not have the knock sensor/ESC.

 

Thats What im always saying!!!!

 

Ah, i had to create 2 first posts as one appeared to vanish and i forgot to put that in my second.

It's a 3.1v6 1991 version and is a direct american import so is american standard.

I found the ESC module and it does have a knock sensor according to the Haynes manual. everything appears to be connected ok, and i haven't touched anything, just got in last saturday and wouldn't start

Bear in mind i am about as mechanically minded as a brazilian tree frog swiming in a glass of luke warm beer. I'm hoping someone is going to come look at it tonight and i wanted as much info to give him as possible

Peter

 

OK now we're getting somewhere. The code 42 is for the EST circuit. This code gets thrown whenever the EST connector is unhooked with the engine running, such as when setting the timing. Make sure the connector is tight and all the way connected under the locking tab.

Back to the no start - I had the same problem with my '92 last winter (during 0 degree weather, lots of fun). Car started fine, pulled it into the garage, then would'nt start for anything even with starting fluid. I wound up replacing the whole distributor because of rust, insulation gone on the pickup coil, and cost (the whole distributor was only ~$40 more than the cost of an ICM and pickup coil). Car started right up after replacement. I'm guessing that the problem was a bad ICM or pickup coil, or both.

 

just had a guy out to look at it who checked it over and says there's spark coming from the coil but not getting to the plugs. so i'm going to order a distributer cap, rotor arm and leads. i'm also going to get some new plugs just for good measure. i'll be sooooo happy if that cures it

Peter

 

You have an external coil on that car. I'm betting your no spark at the plugs is the ICM but try replacing the cap and rotor first. While the cap is off inspect the ICM and pickup coil and test the pickup coil resistance as described in your Haynes manual (should be 20-25 ohms). Good Luck!!

 

He said that there is a spark leaving the coil, it's just not getting to the plugs, there's no way that's being caused by a bad ICM. If the module was bad, there would be no ground signal to the coil, and therefore, no spark from it. If the spark isn't getting to the plugs, that means it's shorting to ground either inside the cap because of carbon traking or a bad rotor, or it's grounding to the engine through the coil-to-cap wire. I would replace the cap and rotor first since they are easy to do and fairly cheap, then the wires if you continue to have a problem, but the odds of all 7 (coil wire included) wires going bad at the same time are VERY low.

Now, you could also have a coil problem. You need about 10K volts to jump the rotor gap to get to the tower, if your coil is only capable of putting out 9K, then you'll never get a spark out to the plugs either.

 

If the insulating pad allowed arcing, it will toast the ICM. I would replace the coil, and ICM when replacing the cap, rotor and if the wires are original, replace those too. A quick check on spark plug wires is this, fire the car up in a dark area, open the hood and spray a fine mist of water around the plug wires. If there is a problem with the wires, it will look like a firework display in the engine compartment.

 

well, i got the distributer cap, rotor arm, leads and plugs changed and it's cured the problem

I'd like to thank you all for your help and guidance during my hour of need, and it was much appreciated.

Peter

I have included a pic of my current KITT replica (with correct hood), my RS camaro i had last year and the yaer before, and my old KITT replica that i owned for 8 years before that. Just thought you might like to see them. (all V6's, first replica was a 2.8, then the other 2 cars have been 3.1)

 

I have an 86 2.8L, V6 multi-port EFI. I love this car. I just got it. I was having problems getting the chk engine light to go out. But today I replces the MAF sensor. Light out!! YEAH!! But I have no power, this started yesterday after work. Thought it might be that the cat went out. Had it chk'd but all is well with that. Took it to a mechanic for a more detailed diagnostic test, but they were full and couldn't help. But they did tell me to replace the MAF, I did, no light yeah, BUT STILL NO POWER!! I'm at a loss, I have the Chilton Book. Just not helping this time around. Any ideas????

 

so sweet!