What wires go where? I'm guessing they come with instructions, but if I buy one and they don't then I don't want to waste time trying to find out then.

I remember reading here somewhere that someone has one.

 

i have one,give me a min and ill get u the part number
----------
PART NUMBER 250-23003 its a walker brand o2 sensor(its a universal o2 but it still has a 3 wire plug on the end,i just cut the plug off and used soldered conections),the easiest way to wire one in is with a relay thay energizes with the key in the run position,i just hooked mine up with my fan relay since i have my fan wired to come on anytime the key is in the run position,if u need a wiring diagram/pics let me know and i can grab them for u tommorow.

 

this is a stupid question, but what is the benefit of doing this? On a stock High Mileage car are there any?

 

no there is no advantage,a heated o2 will just get upto operating temps faster,and can be used further down stream then a single wire o2 sensor

 

Well, I put the soldered ac-delco back in today. The bosch was pretty black looking. I'm either going to get the heated o2, or maybe move the o2 bung to where the 'Y' converges.

Or both.

I need to buy a cap and rotor tomorrow (blue build-up on the inside contacts, and the coil terminal is loose) , so I'll take a gander at some heated o2's.

 

I wired mine up to the fuel pump relay.If my fuel pump is running it's staying warm.

 

why not just wire it into the ignition ... you'd run a little more wire but it takes out any guess work

 

a little off topic, sorta... Dave, you mention putting the Ho2 further downstream; anyone wanna take a stab at my question? I put my standard o2 in the collector on the pass. side header and my voltage looks a little funny on the datalogger. Anyone think that the two go together? or does the voltage maybe just look funny because it IS runnig rich...I already know it is. However, I do go through o2's within 8 months, maybe a year, tops.

 

Well, I got it installed. Hooked up to the fuel pump relay as it was the easiest wire to get to. It runs pretty decent now. Hopefully that will last for awhile because my next big headache is finding out what the rattle is.

Guesses so far include:
spark knock (retarded timing to 6 1/2 degrees, still heard it. Haven't tried mid-grade gas yet)
torque converter bolts (they're tight)
crank bearings
valvetrain stuff

 

what does the voltage look like is the voltage swinging back and forth?or is it hanging arouns in a very narrow voltage range.if the o2 isnt heating up to proper temp it will cause the engine to run ruch,and it will also end up getting fuel poisioned.also sealers like rtv etc can also poision an 02 sensore if use don gaskets and flanges in the ex system
----------
have u checked for a loose heat shield,banged on the cat converter with a rubber mallet,possible maybe the brick inside is starting to break up,it can cause an annoying ratlle/knock sound

 

Heh, I got a new rattle over the last few days. I could really hear it around 30mph going through town today with the window down echoing off the buildings and cars. Went away though when I hit the brakes. Found out my front right side outer brake pad is loose. Didn't check the inner pad yet.

I'll bang on the cat a little to see if it rattles, but the sound really seems to be coming from the engine. 15-1700 rpms under light (cruising in any gear) load. I can barely hear it again around 2000 when I'm accelerating.

 

hey i just eremeberd something, check ur flywheel for cracks, u could also need new bushings in the calipers/mine needed them last year everytuime u hit a lil bumpo the calipers would rattlw on the brackets unless u were stepping on the brakes as well

 

The voltage jumps around quite a bit. I know its going into closed loop...the datalogger says it is. But, the motor runs rich cause of the cam I have in it. I'm having a hard time getting it tuned properly. I can email you a datalog if you want to see for yourself what the o2 voltage is doing...if you have tuner pro r/t.

 

yeah i just downlaoded it i had tuner pro though
lethalrides2k5@yahoo.co.uk

 

I'll check the flywheel again then. The TC bolts were tight, and flexplate to crank bolts looked tight. I didn't see any cracks, but I can look again. I should have the gas don enough tomorrow on the way home to put in some midgrade.