Well today i believe my fuel pump went out, i started the car and it idled really rough, pulled into gear and rpm went to about 300, and stalled numerous times. Then it wouldn't start at all. So yeah, i assumed fuel pump.

Got it parked and waited about an hour, and it started up just fine. I was told that was a sign of a failing fuel pump also, something about heat...


Anyways, my dad (A Matheny's GM mechanic) told me the two ways to change the pump. A. lower axle, exhaust, heat shield, tank, then remove pump. Well thats fine except it is pouring the rain for the next few days and i don't have a garage. B. Cut and access panel above the pump and remove through the hatch pump.


I went with option B, using my camaro manual and cautious about sparks and fumes. I now have the panel cut. I looked into my haynes book which showed me the three fuel lines which were rubber in the picture, sounded simple enough. Pull rubber lines, tap out circle lock with a brass punch, and remove assembly...

Ladies and Gentlemen of the Forums, Haynes was wrong again...

My fuel lines were, to my surprise, steel tubing. Ruh-Roh Raggy. I decided i am going to have to cut the tubing to get the pump out, I was told i could purchase high pressure rubber lines from advanced auto parts or auto zone for about $4.74 a foot. Is this safe to do on an EFI system? Are there any other problems with doing this? Suggestions? Comments? criticisms?

Thanks fellas,

~Austin

 

i wouldnt suggest it, ive only seen it done once at an independent shop i used to work at and the car came back a week later... it blew the line off w/ the clamp and everything. they do make EFI clamps, but i think you have to flare the end of the lines before you put the hose and clamp on. someone back me up on that?

 

That's why you're supposed to drop the tank. There are rubber lines attached to it. I promise you 100% that there are not steel lines at the pump that continue, unbroken, all the way to the engine bay.

Now, what you'll end up having to do is crawl under the rear of the car and find the lines, lossen them and pull them off. Then you'll have to enlarge the access hole so that you can get the new pump in there without damaging the nipples.

 

Well i kept with cutting the hole, the local chevy dealer said it was the best option for now and for future changes. I cut the steel tubing and ran the high pressure 3/8in injector line and double clamped both ends.

Everything is working just fine now, but the car is throwing me two SES codes, 44 : Oxygen sensor lean and 45 : Oxygen sensor rich.

I think this is also causing my car to idle strange when stopping, but tomorrow i am going to check for any vacuum problems. If it isnt any other problem does it sound like a bad O2 sensor? I just changed it in august.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

I just did the same thing to my '91 'Bird. I cut the steel lines and installed the new pump yesterday. Was wondering what to about about hoses and clamps. What exactly, did you end up using? And where did you get them???

 

I have four lines, 2 different sizes....do i need different size hoses or are they close enough that one size will work?

 

I bought about 2 foot of 3/8 inch high pressure injector line from advanced auto parts, I'm sure autozone would carry it too. I used the same sized tube for all four lines. I believe the vent line and the fuel line are both 3/8in, and the two center lines are 1/4in. The 3/8in will fit the 1/4 inch just make sure you really crank down on the clamps. I used 12 of the steel screw down clamps. Make sure you double clamp the fuel line itself. Just make sure you cut the tubing in 4-5inch lengths so that you can flex them when you install the pump assembly.

Hope i helped,
Austin

 

You should be using fuel injection clamps.



No holes/cuts in that type clamp to cut into the rubber hoses. Also tightens pulling from two directions that are more spread out than a regular screw type clamp. More of an even pressure around the hose.

My local Autozone doesn't carry FI clamps.
Advance Autoparts does.
So does PepBoys.

 

ok im only a lil lost! lol did you replace the pump and was it your prob?

i have conciderd cutting a hole in the back to access the pump, but have always done it by droping the rear axel,,, also i have never seen those clamps befor untill now,, it good to know they exsist,, ill be getting me some in the future,

when ever i thought my fuel pump may be going out, i get a can of starting fluied, or carb cleaner lol and spray it in the carb or throttle body,, if the car stays on like it wants to run as you spray.,,. then chances are the pump could be bad,..,
any way keep us posted and let us know the out come thanks

 

yeah the car is running like a champ now, thanks for the clamp suggestion though, I'll pick some up ASAP.

Yeah the best way to check for a fuel pump problem is to pull the "in" line on the intake, Mine was running on fumes in the line. Also if you turn your key and don't hear the pump kick on in the rear, its probably the pump.

HOWEVER!!!!!

Make sure you check your Fuel Pump (F/P) Fuse and relay before replacing the pump.

 

any chance for a pic of the hole you cut? I dont need to swap pumps now, but with 186,000 on the clock Im betting Im due sometime in the future.

 

Sorry I don't have a camera, but I can probably get you some measurements if that would help any....

 

Since I haven't seen my fuel pump on my '86 yet, are you saying that the hard lines going into the pump don't have a compression fitting to unscrew? I just don't know why you had to cut the lines if you got to the top of the pump...

 

Nope its all straight tubing down to the pump.

 

The pump is deep inside the tank...you have to cut the lines above the tank then pull the pump & lines out, then there is a fitting on the pump.....you gotta get the pump out of the tank before you can disconnect it. I'll take some pics of mine, i havent put it back together yet.

 

Might do a search on here, there are a couple posts with complete instructions and pictures of this method. Some guys use compression fittings instead of hoses, maybe no better but another option.

 

That how I did it also. Hacked a hole in the back and cut the lines.

I used steel braided rubber line to put them back together. Use double clamps on both ends and crank it down. Folks have done that for years with just regular rubber on tranny lines. Mucho higher pressures.

If you use just reg rubber the sharp bends can make the hose wanna kinda kink over. Put a hose clamp or two in that spot and just tighten them down enough to make the line stay a nice circle.

 

Oh and the rubber to steel felx connection for the main lines are down far and there to do that job. If you pull the tank.

in 2000 they finally put a hole back there standard then cancled the line.


My fuel filter is also like that. I use the same big canaster filter but one with nippled ends. Using steel braided rubber line and double clamps on each end.
Stock flared ones twisted off on me.