On a 92 3.1 V6, looking straight at the front of the engine, what is the part w/ a pulley on part of the belt loop on it directly below the alternator?

Can this be removed without consequences?

 

The belt tensioner? I wouldn't ever want to remove that... Lol.

 

i drew a pic

 

 

That would be just an empty pulley for the 2.8. On the 3.1 that is the AIR pump, some sort of emission crap that I believe you can take off.

 

Yep, smog pump.

 

Smog pump maybe.

 

so if I take it off...does anything else need to be done? or is it going to mess something up

 

Read the tech article. If you still have questions then post them here.

 

I disconnected mine to hook up the 2.8L headers to my 3.1L. The pulley is still there to use the same belt. I went through inspection 2 months ago and emmisions passed with flying colors so it wont effect your emmisions but the ECU seemed to take some driving time to get use to it not working. car stalled several time then never happened again hasnt happened in like 9 months and the cars a daily driver.

 

One step further; I usually gut the inside of the pump. When those vanes wear out they lock up the pump and break the belt, leaving you stranded.

If you gut the pump and put it back together you will have your own stealth idler pulley. The bearing in the front of the pump is pretty strong and lasts a long time with no load on it!!

 

thanks

I think i am going to remove the smog pump and the AC, that should free up alot of space to possibly plan out a turbo setup...

I'm pretty sure one of my belt plans will work out...where would i go about purchasing a belt based on the length of the belt and not the application route?
Belt Plan 1:

Belt Plan 2:

 

Plan 1 is a better idea, since you have a LOT more wrap around the crank pulley, this is important.

It's also sort of close to what I ran in my truck, though I moved my Alternator to where the A.I.R. pump was and used a different pulley on teh idler to run teh idler on the inside of the belt.

You will still need a belt tensioner in there to keep the belt tight.

To get the right size belt may take a few ties. Using a piece of string, route it through and around the pulleys. mark where the ends would be, then measure this length with a measuring tape. The parts store should be able to match up a belt for you from this and how many ribs you need.

 

If i leave the tensioner where it is it will cause problems i believe...i think the belt will rub if it's left on...

So I MUST have a tensioner? I cant just do it the old fashion way (lever the PS pump w/ crow bar to get belt nice and tight?

 

You can, but you would need to build your own PS pump bracket that would allow that to happen, besides, the spring loaded tensioner is better, because as the engine fires, this explosion of power (no pun intended), is forced dow the crank and it will speed up ever so slightly, causing the belt to stretch, on each ignition fire. This is why you see the sprig loaded tensioners moving constantly, to absorb this sudden acceleration and stertching of the belt reducing the side loads on the bearings of the other pulley driven components.

 

Plan one won't work because the part of the belt going from the alt to P/S pump will rub. To remedy this, use plan 1, but wrap it the opposite way around the crank & W/P. I have a drawing and pics posted here somewhere of how I did it. Also the ECM will throw codes if you disconnect the smog after highway driving, and will turn back off, so be aware.

EDIT: The alt to W/P part will rub.

 

Here...

 

Ok, that should work then with the AC deleted as well i would assume...

So it will throw the code 1 time, or multiple times when i go on the highway?

I mean if I'm going to turbo it then I could honestly care less about throwing a emissions code as long as the car wont loose any reliability from smog delete

 

No, the power steering bracket is a solid mount, no adjustment.

You'll probably have to do it similar to how I did mine with a custom idler pulley bracket so that you can clear the water pump pulley.

This is not a simple matter of just removing the components you want to, there will be some fabrication involved.

 

Six, it looks like that alt location might interfere with the k-member on the f-body. While test fitting the 3500 heads, that is kind of the location I was looking for, but didn't seem like it would work. The P/S pump almost touches the k on the drivers' side (looks like you used the stock bracket there?). I'm surprised you haven't replied here...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...-brackets.html

Badinfluence, you can use a piece of rope to test fit your routing locations, then measure and get a new belt. I'm not sure if you could delete the smog and A/C with the routing I used, and the engine is tore apart right now.

I'm refusing to get rid of my A/C here in Florida (would be like no heat up north ), I would rather get rid of P/S, but I'm hoping to keep both.