What should the TPS read at idle and at WOT? I have access to a diagnostic comp and i can see what the TPS is set at.

I have been having a bad stumble when i go from idle to WOT quickly, and when i start out in the mornings it would pop and almost die for a sec.

So I took it to the shop and hooked it up and I could not find anything wrong but the TPS was at .61v and I remember seeing on here that it should be .5x so I started moving it till it got to .51v and Bamo the thing goes from smooth with a bit of bubble at idle to smooth as glass, no more stumble, i have yet to let it cool over night and then start it but i will see what it does tomorrow.

So what is the exact IDLE voltage, and if there is a WOT setting what is that?

The thing runs SO MUCH better.

I also to the opportunity to check the Tach and Temp sensor as well as the maf and idle air and IAT. Tach was right on at all RPMS, the temp sensor reported temps between 2* to 5* more than the temp gun said the area around it was, same with IAT. Idle air said 48-50 at idle, and i think the MAF said like 7 or so g/ s or something like that i cant remember the MAF stuff.

EDIT: the O2 was pegged on rich till i adjusted the TPS then it went to alternating like 2 times a sec. with a bit more time on the Lean side.

 

it should be a t 0.54v-0.56v at idle and increase smoothly to 4.5V at WOT

Also, check out your ignition system, bad coils, cap/rotors, and wires tend to produce the symptom you're having because of the much higher demand on the ignition system when you suddenly got to WOT.

 

well I replaced all that stuff about 6 months ago not with fancy stuff but not the cheep crap.

Now i have another problem that was kinda hidden by the rough idle. i have a slight knock sound from the engine area. That was also a reason i was checking the TPS as i could hear it from time to time but only for really short periods IE after beating on the car for a bit.

Well i have been needing to change the Motor mounts for a long time ( like i would shift in to D or R and there would be a loud Clunk, also when the car would shift hard from 1st-2nd. ) so i did the pass side and now that knock sound went away like 50% or so. i understand i prolly have a bad rod or crank bearing but..... i don't want that LOL. so heres to hoping its just the drivers mount that is the rest of the knock. I have a sound clip that you can sorta hear the knock in but i gots to figure out how to get it online.

Oh and that knock either goes away or becomes inaudible any time the motor goes over 1,000 RPM. heck at 750 its almost gone, at a stoplight in the car you can only barely hear it but in a drive through or in any area with the car next to a wall you can hear it if the radio is off.