ok got it running. put the right spark plugs in and got everything up and going. my next question is this. i took off the old air box and put on a cone filter in place of that. i left the air temp gauge out for now cause i had no place to screw it in to. will that give the car a loss of power or is that the fact that i have to adjust the timing? im leaning more toward timing. i left the MAF on and the stock intake. that is until i can fab up something i little smoother flowing. probably this weekend im gonna do that. but im gonna leave the MAF on

 

yea, i'd say that temperature gauge is costing u some serious power because the air in the intake system is colder, ergo denser, than the hot engine bay.

 

rodger that. i'll find a place for it and see what i can do. thanks for the info

 

ok i adjusted the timing a wee bit and that did a lot. probably gotta play with it some more. but i took the bird out for a nice long drive. going up hills it looses power. and the engine light came on. i still dont have the air temp sensor in yet. is that the problem?

 

Use a paperclip to pull the codes.

 

loses power going up hills...wierd...are you sure its an air temperature sensor thats wrong w/ it? doesnt really matter though, fix it and find out if that helps, and you'll probably want to readjust your timing when it gets fixed.

 

You need the temp sensor for it to run correctly. The ecm can't calculate the correct pulsewidth (how long the injectors fire) without it.

 

You can just lay the sensor where the air cleaner housing used to be and plug it in or you can zip tie it to your current filter.

Either way, you need to plug it in.

 

alright its not the timing or the MAT i ran my codes and im getting a 32 and a 44

 

32 = EGR, it doesn't affect driveability, but the SES light will keep comming on.

44 = lean conditions, check your injectors one may be clogged.

 

i looked under the hood and i do have a snapped vacuum line to the egr. musta done that while i was replacing the coil. the 44 still havent looked into that. but i cleared the codes and took it out for a drive. the engine light didnt come on but it was still seriously underpowered. gonna play with the timing some more and check the compression and injectors monday. got to stand duty tomorrow so i cant leave the ship. oh i also checked the codes when i got back only that flashed was the default 12. makes me wonder.

oh yeah i order my cam yesterday too this one... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...33%2D4&FROM=MG

 

That makes me think that you think it's an option.
Not saying that was what you meant, but it's what it sounded like to me, so I thought I'd just throw in there that not using your MAF is not an option.

 

Well technically he could run it strictly off the tables alone without maf input, others have done it before, but it requires constant re-tweaking of the tables to match day-to-day conditions. By the time you have it well-tuned for summer (or fall) conditions it becomes useless as winter rolls around. You need a good grasp on tuning to even consider it in the first place, why not just hook up the maf and let it do the work for you.

 

the maf is connected but the air temp is just hangin there connected but just hangin out

 

It should run fine, but for it to really be accurate it needs to be in the airstream.

 

ok. got everything plugged in and put in place. no codes comin up drove around for an hour. and still its way under powered. i loose speed as i go uphill. but as soon as it levels out i gain speed. i can kinda keep speed is i ship down to 4th gear and get the rpms up there. but if i stay in 5th its looses power and speed. im thinkin maybe compression. my injectors are all good by the way so its not that. could it be the timing im wondering?

 

compression could be worth checking. if its loosing speed it wouldn't have enough power to go up hills like normal. as for timing....i really dont see that as your problem. i'm pretty sure the timing chain is bad in my camaro, and that things not running. so the timing in yours is good enough that the car runs it cant really be off, at least not too much.

 

i think i may have figured it out. i popped my hood and my dist wasnt in position i put it in so i checked the hold down bolt. apparently i didnt tighten it down all the way. i havent taken it out to see if it solved the problem but im sure it did the engine sounded good when i revved it. someone else said my catalytic converter might be clogged too though

 

you still have a catalytic converter? screw that!!! rip that **** off and put a strait pipe were it rightfully belongs!!!

 

can i do that in washington? i did it in michigan i know but not sure if i can do that here

 

You can't do it ANYWHERE legally.
You can do it anywhere you're willing to though.

Some places, like me in FL, we don't have inspection, but if a cop ever does decide to look up under there for some reason, you're screwed if he cares.

It's a long shot that you'll ever get cought in a place like this, but you might as well just gut it and run the shell if you're gonna do anything to it.

Oh, and I think everyone's car looses some speed going uphill, I always shift down to 4th if I don't want to loose speed going up a bridge or something. Unless its a dramatic loss, I would think its normal.

 

i might do that if it helps but i found the culprit. the dist hold down bolt was loose causing the dist to spin a little as i drove. i figured it out after i got back from a drive and the car started to backfire like it did when i first put the dist in and had to turn it a bit. so i reset the dist and tightened the bolt. also put a cone filter in place of the standard air box. i feel a difference thats for sure