My check engine light keeps coming on and it is the same code. It says it is the EGR. What are the chances it is the egr valve and not the sensor? That dang thing is expensive. What effects on the car can I expect if the EGR is bad?

I have the timing set at 12 degress, is that ok? It seems to run just fine.

I have this vibration that is driving me crazy. I notice it around when it is cold and the rmps are at 1500rpms. When it warms up and the rpms are at 750 you don't notice it as bad. When you take off you can feel it pretty good. The only time it seems to lesson is when it shifts into OD. If you take it out you can feel it agian. I would really like to get his fixed.

I also notice that when it is warm the idle sits uner 750 rpms. the car kinda feels like it has a bigger cam in it. When I am at idle I can feel a shake. It reminds me of my old 350. It is not as bad as a 350. I would expect to sit perfectly still and not feel anything from a V6.

I am wondering if it's the Torque converter.

 

About the EGR: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...st-points.html

About the shake: I had that too. I'd start the car and it'd shake so bad, a drink sitting on the console would fall off. Much better in gear, but still bad. My flexplate was warped somethin good. Take off the shield and have someone start the car, while you're looking at the flexplate. You'll know if it's not straight. Check motor mounts. Is the rubber in good condition? All the bolts in and tightened down? Same goes for transmission crossmember.

 

that makes since. I never thought of that. I'll give it a look.

Can I just take of the EGR valve and block off the holes? Is that not a good idea? I've heard someone on here has done that.

 

Just blocking off the egr isn't going to get rid of your code.

99% of the time on our vacuum modulated EGR valves, it's a problem with thte vacuum lines to the EGR or a problem with that sensor/solenoid assembly.

 

but, will it hurt anything to block it off. I am not worried about the light coming on. Will the gas mileage go down?

 

The egr normally opens at part throttle low load conditions, usually cruising condition. Reburning the exhaust gasses lowers combustion temps and reduces fuel consumption. So removing it can hurt your mileage a little, but it won't physically damage anything. Your base timing should be 10 degrees.

 

if you want to block it off, its pretty simple. just take off that round egr valve and use it to make a plate to replace it with. then plug the vaccum lines were the egr valve was, a shortened arc welding rod works perfect for that.

 

Just fix it. You'll be happy you did. If you remove anything that doesn't work rather than fix it, before long, you wont even have a motor!

 

Just my 2 cents - I thought I would metion the pcv grommit coming off from the air intake - Mine shook like crazy b/c that had a leak. And once I fixed it I ha donly a tiny vibration and it turned out my return hose that goes from the coal box to the top of the TB was melted in two where it lays on top of the passenger side valve cover. I fabbed one out of silicone vacuum line I bought at autozone and now it's a smooth ride. Both fixes combined cost me about 6 bucks so it's worth at least having a look at those 2 things.

 

The way it's worded in the original post, it sounds like you are complaining about the light being on.

Leaving the EGr there won't hurt anything. Either way you'll get a light on and if you just leave it, you won't actually have to do any work to remove it.

It does raise your fuel milage some, in some cases up to 2 or 3 mpg. Depends on how you drive. The exhaust introduced into the cylinders isn't actually "reburned" as is the common misconception. Since the stuff has already burned, it's mostly inert gas that actually displaces incoming fresh air. By displacing fresh, usable air, it reduces your engine's need for fuel and allows for increased ignition timing since the EGR gasses raise the cylinders' resistance to knock and pre-ignition.