Crux

I just talked to my mom and I think I have a general idea of why my insurance is high..
We use US Agencies and apparently, the price doesn't go down after a number of years of being with them.
I don't really understand it either since adding my dad's truck('84 f150) was only $50 more/mo.
My mom says she'll look around..I don't know much about the insurance deal.
Are you included in the insurance? She says this was the cheapest place for a teenager at the time.

Eh..when I first got the car I told myself my dad wasn't touching it..I was the only one that was going to work on it. But...that's just not the way it turned out. Even if I wanted to work on it myself I wouldn't have the ride to get the parts whenever I needed to. oh well.

I'm hoping for that second car(w/ v8) to be a transam(3rd gen of course) but I think I'm aiming above my budget..camaro or firebird would be good, too. I'm getting back $271fed. and $144state taxes back..just enough for the 3.4 probably. Problem is that I read that the new amount of torque would wear my transmission so I'd have to rebuild or get another..rebuild kits are $130-$250+ but I've always heard about how hard it is to do.

Heh..it seems I'm throwing my own thread off-course.
It'll get back on when I get an update to give you all...

Here's a quick pic of the car from a little while back:


I bought it for $800. It has holes for a rear spoiler and I have the unpainted spoiler with me..but I don't see the code in the console saying it's supposed to have one. It's just a basic sport coupe..power nothing and no cruise control and I still love it.

ETA: I should make a list of things needed for the 2.8v6-5.7v8 swap and show people everytime they mention it...

Crux

We didn't change the pump today, either..should tomorrow hopefully.

Well, all..you've been helping me so far and I was wondering if you could help with a decision.
For $500 I can get the engine for the 3.4litre swap..
or I can buy a functional 1990 Toyota Camry(4 cyl probably) from someone I work with
or I can buy an old deisel truck

The camry would be nice to get to the parts store to get parts for the camaro...or even drive when I want a high gas mileage ride...
The truck would burn lots of gas..but I could use it for stuff like towing and bringing stuff around..and the parts store as well. Also, the truck would be more likely to have problems..

Honestly..all three have their ups and downs..
What do you all think?
Thanks in advance...

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

from an F-body stand point, i feel i should smack you upside the head and ask why you would even consider that. BUT from a logical standpoint, the camry might be good, if its in better condition than the bird, then you could get good mileage, save money for parts, and be able to fully diagnose the problems on the bird. Btw...looks good for an $800 car. Or you can do the swap and hope for the best, assuming you have an alternate mode of transportation while its out ( which im sure you do seeing as its sitting now) but it should be your call, i wouldnt consider that truck though too much in gas.

If it were me i'd take the swap, but i've got access to a wide range of F-body owners and techs that can give me a hand, but i've done swaps in my dirt lot with me and my friend before. If you get someone that knows what they're doing to help, you shouldnt have an issue.

as far as the insurance goes we have USAA and i found ut that my dad bs-ed them and said i had a 3.8 gpa, which only brought it down 5$ but still lol, plus they took the fact that it wasnt an IROC into serious consideration and for some reason it came out being cheaper than my 93 delsol.....it still eludes me... this is a big 2 ton car that i could kill someone in, and the delsol would have just turned to dust if i hit anything. They'll never make sense lol

Crux

hmm..maybe you only have liability? It means that the insurance only covers things that you run into and not the car itself...that's what I'd do with the camry.
I don't have an alternate mode of transportation. During school my bus drops me off at work and I have another to take me home on days that I don't work. Otherwise someone at work brings me home or my mom picks me up. She also brings me to work on days I don't have school.

Anywhere else I want to go..heh..well forget about that.
It's kinda funny..I used to like imports more than muscle cars(except for the Corvette...it's ALWAYS been my favorite car)..
But now..haha..the only import I'd consider(reasonable..not talking ferrari or bugatti veyron) is a toyota supra..
Except in this case..where it's really cheap.

I know this one guy who lives not far from me..he has two camaros and I'm more friends with his fiance who has a corvette..both know cars well and the guy is a mechanic..but seems like more of a person to charge for help lol. So..I'd really be on my own which may be good for a change..it's about time I touch my own car other than the interior.(which reminds me..in front of the car in the pic is the old, faded, red carpet that I took out for the new black carpet I've got in now)

Later.

zrated57

That's a really nice car for $800. Paint looks good. Let's just hope you can get it running smoothly.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

well dont feel alone im still partial to imports, but only the Mark III and 4 supras, and the FC and FD rx7s, surpas and the rx7s were like the firebirds and camaros of the import scence, just the rx7's ran rotaries

And yeah its just liability, they said its too old to just fully cover without having a rep come out to evaluate it, load of bull but oh well lol i dont intend on hitting anyone so im good lol

As far as the camaro guy it will seriously never hurt to ask. Hell if i didnt ask my neighbor for help my camaro would still be junk. The thing is dont go to them and be like well i dunno what im doing can you do it? GO to them and tell them you're working on a third gen and you have somehtings confusing you and you would like to know if they could help you to diagnose and show you how to fix it. (they love it when you make em feel important) its just human nature, you dont help those in need, you help the ones that make you feel good....except liberals...but this isnt the time or the place to bash liberals lol

Asking will be the best thing you can do, if someone asked me to help them i would, theres just a sense of acomplishment when you know that you just helped save a thirdgen from the scrapper.

Crux

Edited to add:
M_d: I think the guy is only into camaros with v8s in them >_<
You have an instant messenger, man?

ALSO: the car came with a free IROC-Z hood and another back hatch. I'm considering painting the spoiler and hood gloss black($50 paint job) and putting them on..dunno if I will or if the hood will fit.

Thanks
Everyone else's on this board looks alot better, though.

There's rust here and there, too..also missing the top paneling, back seats have them..just not in there), and seats are badly worn. I'm getting the seats redone which is why they're in covers for now.
In the pic you can see the black around the windshield..I had to get body work done before I could get the windshield changed and the guy couldn't match the paint. The black is fine, though.
Oh..and there's paint chipped off of the bumper from a slow wreck the previous owner got in. Have to change the driver's side strut and had a spiderweb crack on the passenger side of window(crack migrated which is why it had to be changed).
All this..and I still fell in love with it when I first saw it =P
Here's a more current pic:

zrated57

Is that a stock color? It looks very unique to me.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

ha ha well you've got one up on me, my passenger side fender and driver side rear fender are primered, nice blue, then a dank gray interrupting it lol the guy i bought it form, took it form his son when he whipped the rear out and hit a mail box and then got hit by a golf cart when he was headed home.....i didnt know they could do that much damage though lol but on the upside there is no bondo, all metal work, he cut the old parts and welded new hand shaped metal in. The guy is a genius and i still get his help lol

Crux

@Zrated, nope..it's not stock. It's a metallic red, about a decade old paint job. The guy who painted it at the time was an amateur so there's bubbling here and there but not too noticable. It's kinda cool..looks bright red during the day and burgundy at night.

@M_d..haha, I guess we both took pictures that hid the damage. Yours looks nice in your avatar.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

yeah i've gotten good at angling the shots to make it look like a sun glare, i'm gonna prime the thing soon any way, i'll miss the blue but the paints chipping and it just looks horrid, but seriously nice paint, its cool to see the colors that have been lost, it can really turn heads

dennine2

Hey Crux nice camaro for $800. Dont do what I did with my 85 camaro. I pulled my 2.8 out and put a 305 tbi in it (that came out of a 89 RS) and I also put power windows and door locks in it ground effects off a 89 RS, front bumper cover and lower spoiler and factory fog lights off a 89 IROC on it. A Z28 hood that came off a 85. It was 3 different colors and I started working alot so I didn't have time to mess with it anymore.(I only had to paint it and put a new headliner in it) and it was done, but I sold it to a 16 yr old and his father and they are keeping in touch with me on what they are doing to it. So I bought a 91 RS from a co-worker so thats my ride for now. Hey Master_disaster you may have seen it in Gilbert, It's yellow. It's the only yellow 91 RS I've seen around in about 5 years.

Crux

So you're telling me not to put alot of work into mine then sell it?

..lol..k

fignewton

iTrader: (1)

Crux, Buy the Camry. Even with a load of miles it should provide dependable transportation. Then you have the luxury of time to put your camaro back together. This is the sort of thing that common sense dictates. Although getting a 3.4l for 500.00 is a good deal you would still be afoot and at least with the camry you would have wheels.

dennine2

No, I'm not telling you to put alot of work into it then sell it. Do what you want to do with your car. I was just telling you what I did with mine. Then I didn't have time for it anymore to finish it. So I sold it. I guess what I'm trying to say is mine had the 2.8 v-6 in it for 4 years got tired of replacing stuff on the motor and did a v-8 swap and added power everything to it and so on. It was my project for the last 3 years and just didn't have time for it anymore. So if you do a swap the v-8 swap is easy as long as you replace the motor mounts on the frame, make sure you get the wiring harness for the v-8, the ecm too, got to have that for the v-8. Make sure you change the radiator and some other small stuff. Also make sure if you decide to do a v-8 swap when you get the motor make sure the transmission comes with it. the 2.8 v-6 transmission wont bolt up to the v-8. It only took me a couple of days to do it.
By the time I did what I did to mine it was a RS clone. But 3 different colors. Now I have a 91 RS that I paid $500 for and it only needed little stuff to fix on it.But anyway, doing a v-8 swap I thought was going to be a pain but it wasnt at all. It was easy. But that was me I guess. But do what you want and have fun doing it and you can learn alot about your car as you go. My 85 camaro look just like yours when I started but burgendy. Good luck in what you decide and have fun!

Crux

Thanks. Encouragement is always welcomed. I see what you mean..
I don't plan on swapping to a v8 in this car, but I plan on buying a car with one already in it in the future.

Fignewton, thanks for backing up the idea of the camry. I was already leaning towards it more but it's almost always great when someone helps me decide for sure.
I'll pass it on to my parents but the camry is starting to look like a PITA already. It'll need a new windshield and maybe muffler..and inspection sticker ends at the end of this month. I should be getting my federal taxes back around the 15th..my mom has yet to send off for the state(since it's my first time getting taxes back, we have to mail for it).


Thanks all.

Crux

Alright..my car's running again.
The trial period is a week..if it lasts that long, then I'm not getting the camry. If it does, then the money is going into this car.

Wish me luck..I'll be going to a few junkyards to see what they have. Maybe I'll score some interior parts..or at least some new seatbelts.

Just reporting back in..I can't wait until I get to the point of getting non-neccessity things.

Crux

Drove it a little and here's an informational bump.

It drives fine..but doesn't have power and stalls if idles too long(not long in this case). It also smells a little rich.
My dad said it's the timing and all of this matches so hopefully he's right. He just put the pump in yesterday so there's no way it's going out again.

If I'm getting suction from the PCV valve..it's not much so I'll have to get a new motor I think. Only thing is..it's a dealer item which means it's expensive. Anyone have a working used for v6 2.8 that I could buy? lol.

Still getting the code 32..I'll check that now if I can and report back.

For the hell of it here's a pic of the damage and my engine:

Crux

Another update. The new(non OE like the pump before) pump whines like the aftermarket one that was one it when I got it. So..I got an old problem back. No power, slowly speeds up but takes a little while. I'm hoping it's really the timing..won't know until tomorrow.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

most pumps i've changed on alot of cars have a whine to it, is it like a humming while its in the tank kind of whine or is it like a squeal?

Crux

Just the whine in the tank...
my OE pump didn't do this.
and still does it on a full tank >_< ah well.
I hope the timing is the only prob at the moment..

fignewton

iTrader: (1)

Did you say you needed a PCV valve? I have most of the top end from a 93 w/a 3.4. I 'll look and see if it is there. If so I will gladly give it to you. Would probably cost a dollar or two to mail it.

Crux

I think it's the motor that's out. My dad checked the valve and said it was fine.
But thanks anyway I appreciate the offer. If the motor from it would fit for mine then I suppose you could call me interested.

Well we got the timing light and I learned to use it. I feel so stupid now..it's so easy.
But..it pops when I let go of the accelerator too fast and doesn't run well when warmed up.
My dad finally decided to take the catalytic converter off.

My car also threw codes 32, 33 and 44.
Which are egr valve, MAF, and oxygen sensor(lean)
I think these are all from the cat going out. Sounds right?

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

32 is a Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve but id bank on that diagnositc switch but i dont see how removing a cat would spike the voltage at your map sensor, try clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds then run the paperclip again, they could just be old

Crux

Will do.
By the way, my car uses a MAF.

Thanks.

fignewton

iTrader: (1)

Well Crux, I'm a little confused. The PCV valve doesn't have a motor. Could it be the IAC valve? That would be the : Idle Air Control Valve. It has a motor and it is mounted in the upper intake. I have the entire upper intake plenum and the fuel rail w/ injectors yours for the asking. All it will cost is the shipping. Since I'm in Tulsa, Ok. and you are in Weezyana it shouldn't cost much.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

ah sorry about that

Crux

fignewton, PM sent.
This is what he pointed at when he told me the motor was out:


No prob, M_d

Crux

damnit...
it seems my dad is already giving up.
The car he's considering getting...is a 1998(or '97?) ford probe. First of all, it seems they generally run 2.5l v6 which is a major downstep(okay..researched and it's 2.5l engine supposedly puts out as much as the 3.4l but still...). It's a manual so it'd be a little fun to drive, I admit. But..it's a ford probe..a 1998. Geeze..can you imagine the insurance?
Not to mention it's such a waste of money(dunno how much they want for it yet)..

Honestly, I've decided to suck it up and do the 3.4l swap instead of getting that camry. I'd rather the camry over the Probe even though the Probe looks better, etc..
I figured that I'd rather just not drive for a little while and put all of the money into my car.

...geeze.

It's starting to look like if I do the swap, it'll be by myself.
Even buying that probe would be a waste unless it's extremely low priced and I only kept it temporarily...but still..the effort to get the paper work done, etc..my camaro wouldn't even be the focus of attention by anyone other than myself until the Probe was on the road.
This is a disaster..
It was going to be a hard enough time to convince my dad to let me do the swap..
I mean, he wouldn't stop me. He couldn't..I bought the car and so far I've payed for everything for it with the exception of the windshield and bodywork around it($500).
But it would've been better off with his support.

I've made up my mind that I'll be doing the swap..but geeze.
I see other teens on this board around my age and yet it seems I'm the only one with these stupid little problems.

I'm really not completely engine iliterate as my dad thinks. I don't know things, sure..but everything seems like common sense once I learn the terms.

bah..later all.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

engine swaps arent hard, i did my first one 2 years ago wheni was fifteen on my own with a hanes manual lol, and common sense obviously cuz the hanes manual doesnt go in depth on a swap, i say go talk to that camaro guy see if he can give you a few pointers.

Crux

Well I guess I dont know what I was getting mad about...
The car will cost $400...I only had to pay $300 of it and insurance should just be an extra $50..
So my engine money is minus $100 but I should have something to drive..
so it's not a bad sacrifice...hopefuly this car performs well..my dad doesn't even know what year it is.
He's convinced it's a '98 but the last year they were produced was '97 and he says a 2.3litre 4cyl. ?
Oh well..I'll just have to wait and see.

Man..you must really have a nack for working on engines..
I know its mostly common sense, but it still seems intimidating doing it on my own.

Crux

Here's a new update..
my dad took a look at the catalytic converter and It's already hollowed out!
so..it can't be that, apparently.

The tach fluctuates a little with the MAF plugged and with it unplugged. I'll try and get some video.

ploegi

Why would you want to replace the motor? Given the issues that you have been seeing, I don't think swapping the motor is going to solve them. I have read through the entire thread, but, only a little at a time, as the situation developed. Have you done a compression test? Cylinder leakdown test? For us old folks, with poor short term memory, could you give a quick rundown on what has been replaced/tested?

Doing an engine swap is not exactly a breeze, but, if you take your time, don't hurry, and have a friend that is somewhat mechanically inclined, doesn't even have to know squat about cars, just someone to help out, it is actually kinda fun. A learning experience for both of you. (added bonus points if you can convince your girlfriend to help.... if ya have one.....) But first, make sure you actually NEED to swap the motor.....

Crux

The engine swap decision wasn't out of necessity but because it'd generally be better than the engine I have now.

Here's a list of the parts we've changed so far(pretty much in order):
Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter again, Fuel pump relay, ignition coil, control module(which..the old one tested good anyway at Advanced Auto and we tried with both new and old module), pickup coil, pickup coil again(free this time..warranty), distributor cap & rotor, and the spark plugs are new as well.

We haven't done a compression test or Cylinder leakdown test(don't even know what this one is).

We've replaced the fuel pump twice now..or..three times? I think twice.


So...basically, we've replaced the whole ignition system and the fuel pump.

EDIT: here's a little video(19-20seconds) of the tach with the MAF unplugged..it doesn't act much differently with it unplugged but I'll show a vid of that, too.
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t=STP83462.flv
The car is louder than normal because the cat is disconnected on one end

ploegi

Cylinder Leakdown test uses a dual gauge set up, one for incoming air pressure, and one that reads pressure the cylinder is able to maintain. Using a little math gives one the percentage of leakdown. GM seems to be under the impression that anything under 25% is ok...... I don't agree, but hey, that's just me..... Also, while you are running the test, it is a simple matter to HEAR where the leaking air is going. This test is great for determining the condition of valves, and rings. One of my personal favorites.

Your tach bouncing a little like that is fairly normal. Mine does that as well, and it runs great. (V-8 though...)

Solve the issues with the engine you have now. It is a known quantity, and removes a lot of possibilities as opposed to trying to troubleshoot the same problem with a new engine....

I would suggest doing an ohm check on your injectors, especially when the car is exhibiting the problem. It has all the hallmarks of a failing injector(s).

Crux

Thanks..my dad's looking into a fuel pressure regulator($42)

here's a video after I plugged the MAF back in:
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t=STP83464.flv
(it acts a little differently)

Do you think it could be a serious problem?
I'll look into the test but it sounds like it'll cost a little for the gauges..

ploegi

Does it idle that much higher with the MAF plugged in? Do you have a scan tool available? One that will let you see real time data?

If you are really determined, I think you can pick up the leakdown tester from advanced auto for about 30 bucks.... but, it is optional. Not really required. If it runs good (when it is running good.... hhhhmmmmmm) I wouldn't worry about it. Especially if you don't have a fairly beefy air compressor available..... (I run the input pressure at 100PSI, but, I have an industrial air compressor.... that way I can read the leakdown directly from the gauge, no math required. Ok, I need to do some subtraction.... but, even I can handle that without a calculator.... )

Try another test as well, while you are in there..... with the engine running at idle, whack the MAF with a screwdriver handle. Not too hard mind you, just enough that if it were your little brother, you would be sure to have his attention.... and see what the car does. If there is a change in it's behavior when you hit it, the MAF is bad, and won't necessarily set a code.

Check your intake ducting for vacuum leaks as well.

Not running champion sparkplugs by any chance are ya?

Crux

The spark plugs are AC Delco.
I'll try the MAF test tomorrow..my dad's here now and he'll just start telling me about how "it's not that"
(Even though a while back I mentioned the fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors and he immediately shot it down "no, it's not that"..and now he's considering it.. -_- )

I'm worried about driving too far because the car is prettttyy loud right now. It really only does it after a little while..
It idles alright in my yard.

Thanks for helping..I was starting to think that everyone else had given up on me

I'll look into the tester, too..but do you think it would help diagnose the problem? I really am determined but my budget is pretty low.

ploegi

I don't think the leakdown test would help in your case. It might give you more ammunition for justifying the engine swap though...... (something to keep in mind. ) I would lean more toward injectors, or MAF. Got a VOM? If not, get a GOOD digital volt/ohm meter. You will have LOTS of opportunities to play with it....

What does your dad do for a living? Have you had him read this thread? or any of the threads on this board? There are a LOT of VERY knowledgeable folks here, and they come here just to help other folks that are having issues, or, are new to the scene, or, a combination of the two. Don't wanna step on any toes, but, in my case, I have been working on cars for over 30 years, and I STILL am learning new things here...... I would like to think I have a clue. Granted, I cannot see your car, or lay my hands on it, but, from experience.... those are the things I would start looking at first. I simply cannot afford to fix ANY problem by throwing parts at it, until it goes away. The shotgun approach, while sometimes effective, is always expensive.

Crux

My dad doesn't really have a job. I guess you can call him the neighborhood handy man. He does mechanic work, carpentry work, etc..
He's completely computer illiterate..so that won't do.
I've been telling him things said here as "I heard..."

Throwing parts at it is really expensive...but at least I know that those parts are new, now.(too bad that won't help to rule anything out later on)

We have a VOM. I don't know what brand but we've been having it for a while, now. (like most tools)

I'll keep reading on how to test things, etc

I'm off of work today so I'll see what I can do. I'm at school at the moment(computer class...usually far ahead of everyone else).

Thank you.

IROCmonkey

definately check your fuel pressure, anything less than 40 PSI at the rails and it will run like crap or just plain not run, which will cause codes.

I keep seeing references to a high idle, is that just the reading on the tach? or does it sound like its racing? the stock tachs are notoriously inaccurate (according to the tach in my IROC, it makes part throttle shifts at 5000 rpm ) If you really have that high of an idle, you need to resolve that.

V6 cars also had an oil pressure switch, if that is failing and the system thinks there is no oil pressure the car won't start.

When you set the timing, did you disconnect the ESC lead on the passenger side firewall? if not then the timing is going to be wrong. ESC lead must be disconnected so the ECM is not advancing the distributor. Also try running the car with the ESC lead disconnected, does it smooth out, or stall or idle rougher?

Check your voltage at the TPS, do a search here or in your Chiltons how to do that make sure the TPS is smooth through whole range.

Test IAC as well, just cause its clean dont mean its working. Does the car have an EVE system on the exhaust manifold on one side? is that stuck closed?

When it dies, does it sputter cough, get rough and slowly croak or does it just shut off like a switch? When its running will it idle smoothly? or does it run rough, does it surge or stay at a constant idle? When you drive and accelerate does it sputter stumble when you give it throotle or just bog down.

dont give up the 2.8 MPFI is generally a solid, reliable system. I'd still have mine if it hadn't gotten totalled. Check over on the V6 board for more info, ask the moderators there directly for some help too...some smart guys with 6's over there.

Crux

Thanks

ploegi

The oil pressure switch is backup power for the fuel pump, in case the relay fails. It will not shut down the engine in the event of loss of oil pressure. (else, the car would NEVER start until pressure built up....) Not sure how this one got started, but, it sure is persistent....

Let us know what ya find.

Crux

Well I took the car for a little drive just now.
My dad has the VOM meter at the moment and he's not here so I can't test the TPS.
The car ran fine until it warmed up to around 110*
Then it'd lose power..but in a weird way. It was like the engine wanted to go but the car didn't. The transmission shifts fine.
It didn't bog down as in the front of the car kinda going down..but the car just didn't want to go.
It wouldn't really slow down, either..just not speed up too fast.
Honestly it was almost like it just wasn't "catching". I don't know how to explain it.
See, before, when I'd give it some gas or floor it..it would take a second and then kinda..kick in and go..front end would come up a little(not wheels lol) and there was a nice vrrrooooommmm....but when it starts messing up it just doesn't "go".
Know what I mean?

Also..the car started shaking on the way back home after driving it a bit.
..going 55(speed limit).

I tried tapping the MAF and there wasn't a change in the way the engine was running.

It didn't stall, though..I went back home before letting it get too bad and start sputtering, etc.(though I can't be sure that it would've).

Edit: I just called in to price the IAC sensor and it's $32, in stock. Should I get anyway? It's not really a part that wears down..or at least I don't think so?
The TPS is also $32 and have to order this one.

Crux

Well..here's a quick update...
Half way to work the car wouldn't accelerate past 30 so I pulled into a driveway, called my mom, backed up and the car stalled and started up and I went home. I managed around 50mph but not much more..

It's almost like I'm getting gas but not *enough* gas.

Also..fuel rail is a dealer/junkyard item. My book says that the regulator and fuel rail are serviced as a complete assembly only. "DO NOT attempt to remove the regulator cover from the fuel rail."
Then..why do they sell the regulator for $42(have to order) but not the fuel rail?
Can I really not just change the regulator?

My mom said that my dad bought a $10 sensor...don't know which one since the oxygen sensor is around $21.

Alright..later and thanks.

EDIT: sensor is the oil temp sensor
he's convinced that something is heating up and causing it to do what it's doing.
I'm considering cancelling the insurance so that I have that $192/month to spend on fixing it.

ploegi

Not sure why they say not to remove the FPR, everyone does.... in fact, it is generally one of the first "performance" mods folks do.... Have you looked at your fuel pressure while the car is running poorly? I was not aware that there even WAS an Oil Temp sensor...... I am still of the opinion that the injectors are what is giving you grief.

Crux

I tried convincing my dad of that >_<

...didn't work.

I priced fuel injectors here and they're around $74/ea. for Sorensen.
I think I'd be better off buying online...

Crux

Well I drove it to work and back..didn't have much trouble.
..as long as I let it speed up at it's own pace.

If the transmission was out..wouldn't it simply not let me take past certain speeds? It'll go to 65 eventually. Just slowly.

And..I'm smelling gas.
Why am I running rich? Almost the whole ignition system is new.

Does this point to a sensor?
Maybe I need a new computer?(I don't even know where this is on my car)

ploegi

Price out some Ford SVO injectors, in the appropriate size (or, a little larger?) for your car. They are cheaper, and work better than the "Generic" injectors you can find at the parts store.... This is also a common upgrade.

Not sure why you are smelling gas. Pardon my crappy memory, but, do you have a scan tool available? Seeing what the sensors are reporting when the car is acting up would be really informative.... IF you have a laptop available, you can get an ALDL cable for it for around 40 bucks, and download FREE software to use.....)

Try this: Tell your dad that you talked to a Certified Mechanic buddy of yours, that has been in the business for over 30 years, and he (She?? That would be fun...) suggested checking the injectors. (if he asks for a name, tell him "Brian", of the unpronounceable last name. If he asks where "he" works, tell him Ray's Auto Service.)

I really don't think this is a tranny problem....

Crux

Haha Ploegi..yeah..I have the ford injector info on paper already:
F1zE or F12E...bad handwriting. 15#...from Ford Ranger or Bronco..
$150/new
stock:
2.8l = 13#
3.1l = 15#
3.4l = 17#

more # injectors mean more fuel but will just run rich unless the air flow is improved, too.
Are my notes right? lol

EDIT: also..he says he did unplug the ESC before timing it

You know what my dad decides to remember?

He didn't tighten the distributor after timing it!
So after flooring it and/or hitting bumps..the timing could be just good enough to drive it.
I HOPE this is it. I'll look into getting those injectors from a junkyard when my car's a little more reliable(unless it NEEDS the injectors)

Thanks Ploegi lol

By the way..I'm on a laptop right now and I use the paperclip to read codes