Crux

Alright. First of all I want to apologize for my first post being a "help me please" post.
My dad and I have been trying to fix my car for the past 2-3weeks now. So far I've put $300 into it just for this problem and it's still not working right.
I'll try to explain in detail what problems I'm having to make it easier for any of you to help me should you choose to do so. I've been browsing the boards the whole way through for help but it's still not running right yet.

Here's a list of the parts we've changed so far(pretty much in order):
Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter again, Fuel pump relay, ignition coil, control module(which..the old one tested good anyway at Advanced Auto and we tried with both new and old module), pickup coil, pickup coil again(free this time..warranty), distributor cap & rotor, and the spark plugs are new as well. I plan on getting new spark plug wires this friday but I doubt it'll help.
-------------------
How the problem came to be:

I got the car(1987 Camaro V6 2.8litre) before October(don't remember exactly when though) and it had worked fine until just recently. I did alot of driving with it when I had my driving permit but just about 3days af
ter I drove it with my license it starts stalling at red lights(it started off just doing it once, but gradually did it more often). A few people told me "it's probably just the fuel filter". Okay, well that weekend I go to get a filter and decided to drive around town a bit before making a stop at the autoparts store. Well..it wasn't my lucky day. I thought I had a while to go before the car absolutely needed the filter to be changed but I was wrong. It started acting like it didn't have gas when I had 3/4 of a tank of gas in it. When I'd try and make it go faster, it'd "bog down" and go slower so I ended up cruising to O'Reilly's(closest store) at 25-40mph with my hazard lights on and getting the filter then going home the same way.
Only, it'd stall and I would pull it over, start it, and rev it up. It did the same thing acting like it didn't have gas. But another time it stalled on the way home it revved up fine and it drove fine. It took me to 55 like nothing was wrong.

It's basically doing the same thing now. It's pretty much random on how long it'll go before stalling though. It was 1mile exactly until we changed the cap and rotor(after changing everything else) and it went about 2.5miles without stalling. Sometimes it'll get some distance and others it won't make it past my driveway.

As for my gauges:
It's cooling right and doesn't get hot often but at 220 the fan kicks on taking it back down to 110.
The oil pressure stays a little above 40.
The battery stays a little above 13.
Usually idles around 3000RPMS at first start then goes down to 2000-2500 and sometimes less after it warms up. It depends on whether or not It's idling in my yard or on the road after driving.

Right now, even when it does run it doesn't have very much power at all and flooring it takes it nowhere at all. My dad says this is because of the timing with the distributor.
The SES light only comes on when it stalls except for once or twice while the car was still running. It's probably only on when it stalls because the key's in that position, though.
We don't have a diagnostics tester and my dad plans on borrowing one soon but if the light isn't coming on then it's not throwing any codes, right?

My dad now thinks:
bad battery
bad ground(though he hasn't even checked)
bad Idle Air sensor
bad oxygen sensor

This is my first car and I'm really learning alot from all of these problems but I can't afford all of this at once. Buying the other parts isn't a loss sense they were bound to go out sooner or later anyway, though.
My insurance is $192/mo. and I usually only get around $250/2weeks.

It used to bother me alot that it's a V6 but at this point I don't care. When it does run it has power and it's a good car. Besides, I've been looking into getting turbo in it...and I figure I can always make it an awesome looking, awesome sounding, smooth riding V6.

Thank you to anyone who even read this and thanks even more if you help. There's more to how the car acted after we changed each part and whatnot but I didn't want to make you all read alll of it. If you need to know anything else, the car at least runs for a little while and I can get the info and bring it back to you.

Thanks again,

Crux

TheBigJ

iTrader: (1)

sounds like a fuel issue... when you take off the gas cap, does it sound like its releasing pressure? This issue sounds like my buddys camaro, tho we never have figured out why its dieing (no gas after a couple miles) ...its been a year or so

Do you have all the emissions hooked up?

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

The SES light pops on because when the car dies its just like when you turn the key to the on position, thats been happening to me and i just bump start it, but you idle....sounds too high, mine idles at 500-700 RPMS as has every other working third gen i've come across. Might wanna check that, As for the bad battery and ground that doesnt sound right, if its a cut out of fuel your battery and ground shouldnt be affecting it, unless its affecting the spark which after your list of changed parts...i HIGHLY doubt. If you want a cheap way to scan your car for codes, just use the paperclip trick. Just remember that this is most likely a fuel related issue, if your filter was THAT bad then there has to be some other problem, were your lines flushed out? there could be crap in them clogging them up, try taking a trip to your local parts store and getting a can of seafoam, and running it through your tank to see if that helps follow the directions and you shoudl be fine but dont put it in your crankcase even though the bottle says it can. Most people dont have too much luck with that and i dont think you need that at this rate

TheBigJ

iTrader: (1)

Checked the TPS?

Crux

Nope, I don't hear any sound like that.
A year or so, eh?...pretty scary. I hope mine's not a lost cause.

What do you mean by the emissions being hooked up?
My dad suspected the catalytic converter at one point but now he thinks it's bad but not the cause of the problem.

Also I forgot to add this before:
My dad thinks buying the cheaper pickup coil was a bad idea so he plans on getting a more expensive one.
Also my car has trouble starting and the pump doesn't prime everytime the key is turned. Only after you've already started the engine and shut it off again.
Though I think the pump's working right because you can hear it for a second or two after I shut off the engine.

I planned on getting another camaro..one with a 350 in it but not until later. I figured I'd use this one as my daily and work on the other on the side. I'm hoping this one's fixable.

Thanks for your reply.
----------
Master_Disaster..thanks for your reply.
Honestly, yeah...there's rust in my gas tank that we've been trying to get out by simply changing the filter. When we do change the filter it usually empties out rust. Though we haven't changed it a third time yet..my dad doesn't believe this to be the actual problem making it run like it is.

TheBigJ..I'm looking up on how to test my TPS now. I'll get back when I find out. Thanks.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

well, if there is rust in the tank id bet your lines are nasty too, do a fuel pressure check on it and if i remember it should read about 11psi, if not, since you've already done the fuel pump and filter i'd look towards the lines or your injectors

Crux

Alright, I'll get to that as soon as I can.
I work through the rest of the week and weekend and I have school for the rest of the week as well.
I'll see if maybe my dad could check one of the days then I'll get back here with a response.

Thanks again.

Toehead

MPFI is 40 PSI, not 11. TBI is 11 (ish).

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

My bad, stuck in TBI mode lol havent done much MPFI work on thirdgens

dennine2

try the mass air flow sensor, that went bad on my 85 camaro when it had a 2.8 v-6 in it, before I did a v-8 swap.


Todd

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

I hadthe same thing happen to my car when it was very mildly modded (not even removing the intake) I did plugs and wires and it didnt fix it. I replaced everything else and nothing. I checked the spark plugs after it wouldnt start one time and they were bad.

getting new wires might help

ploegi

Two things I would try.

1st. Unplug the MAF, and see if it runs any better. (this will set a code)

2nd. Pull the O2 sensor out of the exhaust, see if it runs any better. If it does, your cat is plugged. I am kinda leaning toward this one, as your symptoms describe a failed cat almost perfectly.

1fastam

iTrader: (1)

i agree with ploegi, it sounds a lot like the cat.my cat was stopped up had a lot of the same symptoms.later jimmy

Crux

Thank you all.
I really appreciate the help. I'll try this as soon as I can but even if I didn't have work and school..it's been raining alot here so it'll be a little while.

My dad's still convinced that it's the pickup coil again but at least these are things I can check myself.

As for the MAF, I suspected that at one point too. I had read on a thread that you could disconnect it temporarily and the car may or may not run better than before(a way of checking the MAF I guess).
Well the car was sputtering and then when we turned off the car and disconnected the MAF. Afterwards it stopped starting altogether even after we plugged the MAF back in and undid the battery to reset the computer. My dad just figured that "whatever was going out went completely out".

Thanks again,

Crux

TheBigJ

iTrader: (1)

Crux is basicly saying it won't start sometimes... now I hate to mention this but i've unplugged a MAF sensor once... car didn't start...

Sounds like you have a bad cat, I really gotta go with that. When warm, it could plug, tho it doesn't explain ur start/stop issues

Replace the coil, it doesn't hurt... we ended up replacing everything BUT the coil on my buddies camaro, (and dist.) so it very well may be it... tho we did spray out the tank and lines with highpressured water once... then he stored it

good luck!

T-rick'srod

Hey Crux, I suspect you have a fuel delivery issue as well. You say you have
rust ( rusty gas ) coming out of the filter - that is what is being pumped to your injectors and the small orifices in your throttle body. If you have access
to compressed air you could disconnect the lines and blow them out clean . then clean out your throttle body. I hope you get it going soon!


" The secret of life is honesty and fair dealing...
If you can fake that ,you've got it made. "
Groucho Marx

Crux

Hello. I was able to try the test for the MAF. I unplugged it and while it seemed like it was running better it ended up stalling anyway after about a mile drive. I don't know how far it was for sure because I didn't want to go too far from my house since it was at night.
By running better I mean more consistant.
Was I supposed to unplug the battery before unplugging the MAF?

Something that may be of interest...
Once it started doing the sputter/stall thing the oil pressure stayed below 40. It'd rise as I revved it up..pretty much at the same pace of the tachometer.

I still haven't checked the cat yet(gotta locate the 02 sensor first) and haven't tried the diagnostics with the test light but I'll get to it ASAP.
My local walmart offers a gunk-out service for $20 which is supposedly supposed to get everything out. I could ask and see...maybe they use an air compressor?

I'll try for the cleaners tomorrow. I'm excluded from my mom's insurance on her Blazer so it's up to if she feels like it. Town is 5miles away from here..I don't wanna risk my car stalling permanently there.

My dad's theory about the pick-up is that the cheaper one just isn't good enough to work with my "older car".

Thanks again everyone. Once it's running good again I'll be sure to post about it to help anyone who might find this thread while searching.
I might throw some pictures of my car up, too. The front end has chipped paint from the previous owner wrecking it though. No cracks anymore(replaced the windshield where the passenger went into it). And we're changing the strut that went out after this is fixed..but..I guess I'm going off-topic.

I'll report back if any progress. By the way..did you all read that the fuel pump doesn't prime every time the key is turned from the off position? It didn't do this until after changing the pump I think. Could this be a problem?

T-rick'srod

Hey Crux, your last paragraph is very telling. I'm positive that you should hear the fuel pump pressure up every time you turn the ignition to the" ON "
position. This slight buzzing noise from the tank tells you your fuel pump is
pressuring up or "priming" as you put it. If it's not doing this every time, I
think your fuel pump or relay is suspect.


" The secret of life is honesty and fair dealing...
If you can fake that,you've got it made. "
Groucho Marx

Crux

I got the Seafoam cleaner and I'll put it in after we change the filter again.
It turns out wal-mart's service uses a machine that pumps cleaning fluid through the lines(or just injectors..dunno). They call it an injector service and it takes around 30-40minutes costing $20. I think I'll do it if I ever get my car running again.

We should be changing the coil tomorrow.

I went to unplug the 02 sensor but the car's too low to the ground to do it..and my dad had the jack. He's convinced it's the coil anyway so I'll test that after if it doesn't work.

I cleared the ECM by disconnecting the battery for at least a minute and did the diagnostics test and got codes 33 and 34, They're both MAF sensor codes...but when I unplugged the MAF it still stalled. Was I supposed to reset the computer after unplugging the MAF?

Crux

I'm sorry but it is priming every time. I just have to wait a few seconds between times.

One of my dad's friends said they fixed Blazer(w/ same prob.s) by changing the coolant temp sensor. So we spend $15 and change it. He decides that it can't be the pickup coil so he doesn't even bother changing it though it costed $14.
He's also really convinced that in no way could it be the catalytic converter so trying to test it now would probably **** him off since he's home...my car is too low to the gound for me to get my other hand in there to unplug the 02 sensor so I'll have to jack it up.
My parents are telling me to wait until the problem is fixed before putting in the new filter and Seafoam.

My situation is starting to seem hopeless. He decided to finally call a mechanic but the guy is closed on weekends. I have to pay insurance next check...****.

Oh..and we're not getting vaccuum from the PCV lines and the motor is a "dealer item" which, apparently, means that no autoparts store is going to have it. Again..****.

ETA: Also, after it starts messing up and stalling the oil pressure goes down to around 20(or a little higher).

ploegi

Now that I think about it.... I saw a similar problem on a Blazer board I hang out on.... His problem was "stuff" drifting around in the gas tank, that would collect on the fuel pump sock, and choke off fuel, after running for a bit.... Unfortunately, in order to test this theory, you would have to pull the tank... not as easy as on the Blazer...

Crux

Could the seafoam help this?

TheBigJ

iTrader: (1)

*edited* Yea, but it wouldn't explain why it runs and doesn't run

ploegi

It would run for a while, until the fuel pump sucked enough stuff onto the sock to choke off the fuel, engine would quit. Stuff would float away, allowing engine to restart, lather, rinse, repeat......

TheBigJ

iTrader: (1)

haha thanks, ya I wasn't thinkin

Crux

Well...alright.
Conveniently, someone told my dad that it's the fuel pump again.
So it looks like we'll be pulling the pump again...my dad's idea is to(making sure he's grounded) stick a magnet in there and pull out the rust. Also, clean the strainer while we're at it.

I hope this works...getting desperate.

Thanks for the help, everyone.

fignewton

iTrader: (1)

My god Crux, Stop throwing parts at the car. First, if the thing will start and run your Pick-up coil is good. I have been a tech for twenty years and have never seen a pick-up coil sort of work they either do or don't.
You have got to jack up the car and remove the O2 sensor (not just unplug it)then restart the car. See how it runs. The cat on a twenty year old car is suspect to begin with.
Also you have got to address the high idle problem. 500 - 700 rpm is normal. If you have a vacuum leak it will cause a high idle as the computer tries to compensate for the lean condition. Or you could have a piece of trash in your Idle Air Control Motor passage. One thing everyone else is overlooking here is the EGR ports in the intake manifold If they are clogged you will run into the dying problem you describe - Pull the egr valve and look into the passage iyou should be able to shine a light into it and see very little build-up. We use a section of emergency brake cable (next stop, the salvage-take along a good pair of cutters) chuck that puppy up in a drill and pretend you are a plumber.

Also if you do have a lot of trash in the tank enough of it can get into the fuel rail that after running a little bit it will clog the inlets on your injectors causing the car to run out of gas.
Don't worry about the oil pressure. The lower the rpm the lower the pressure. Now if you see the oil pressure drop to zero and THEN the car dies, you have a bad oil pressure sending unit (It cuts off the fuel pump when oil pressure drops below 5psi). This does not sound like your problem though.

The early (read OBD 1 computer) fuel injected cars are hard to diagnose since so many things can cause the same problem.
All of the things I have suggested only take time and and some basic tools to do. I would start with the Idle- check for vacuum leaks then the IAC for some trash, then go after the converter and then the EGR. Good Luck.

Crux

Heh...yeah..all of the parts. Well when I was searching the boards these were all of the parts that were mentioned as possible solutions to people who were having the same problems. My dad suspected them, too so..well..heh.
Yesterday we were going to get the rust out by my dad wanted to try the easier thing first and change the filter again. There was less rust in it this time but the car still didn't make it far. We'll be trying for the rust soon, hopefully.
My dad wanted to change the pump anyway while we had it out but we got the OE pump which had to be ordered.
My car went two days without being run much and the battery had already went under 12v so it's probably also a bad battery.

By the way..my dad finally decided it was the pump because he took off the cap where you put the tester on to test the fuel pressure..
and told me to turn it over and nothing came out. He said if there was any fuel pressure at all then gas should've spurted out. He had put a screwdriver in it when I turned it over..dunno what for. I guess it was to open it? Sorry..I'm still learning.

As for the IAC..erm..I'll get a picture. I think my dad has my Chilton's manual..
But he took it out and cleaned it with electric cleaner..also cleaned where it goes into. They had a little grime..but cleaning didn't help anything.
The IAC..thing..:


Also..I can get video or audio or pictures or all if needed.

Later, and thanks again.

TheBigJ

iTrader: (1)

I guess you could just throw in a 350 and call it good

hate it when these issues come up, if your not getting gas, then I would dump the tank, pressure the lines and HOPEFULLY that will clear that gunk... a new fuel pump would be a start, stop changing filters... im sorry but if your not getting gas, a new filter wont help any... (no gas flowing)

You have more than one problem here... hence the no gas and bad idle

good luck

Crux

I've been reading alot..and..it's not as simple as "just throwing a 350 in"
It would take more time and money and knowledge than I have....wayy more.
I already decided I'd just get a 3rd gen w/ a 350 to fix on the side.
And why give up on a car? It's fixable.(I hope)

What do you mean by more than one problem? Ploegi's explanation seemed pretty probable...
the rust is clogging things up. So if we get rid of the rust then what's the prob?

Crux

I just got home from school and my dad already had the fuel pump out..
There wasn't even a trace of rust on the strainer.
If the problem is what Ploegi suggested then there would be, right?

Well my dad's off at the moment returning the pump for another one.
Let's hope..weak pump..

Still..that was the first thing we changed after the fuel filter so does that take me back to square one?

We're certain about the battery now since it doesn't stay charged if the engine isn't running.
And we haven't ruled out the cat still.
My dad's going to cut the cat off and put pipe to replace it. (sorry to anyone who thinks against this)
They don't really check for emissions here and for some reason my inspection sticker doesn't expire until 2010..which isn't normal..but I hear other people are getting that, too.

Thanks again, all.

dennine2

I use to have a 85 camaro with a 2.8 v-6 in it and it gave me all kinds of trouble. Have you thought about the injectors or the fuel pressure regulator? That could be it too, you never know.

This is what I replaced on mine to get it running better.....The injectors, fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor. I even replaced the rubber flow tube that goes from the thottle body to the air cleaner.(that also could be it too if its ripped or cracked) Then I got tired of putting money in the motor and did a v-8 swap. So if you want to try the injectors and or the fuel pressure regulator.

jokestyle

hey guys throwing my 2 cents in here. my buddies 305 carb is doing the same thing. my suggestion is it is not just one prob but acouple. i would have to ask which fuel filter did you change he had two one under the car and one by the carb which there was stuck closed and that solved his problem. but it seems to me it is more likely then not it as absolutly nothing to do with your battery, ignition set up,or pick up coil. it could just be simply your injctors are bad. and my money sais you need to replace the injectors and clean both the fuel rail and all fuel lines as well as replce the pump again.. and because of all this bad exhaust going through your car i would say the cat is f-d as well .. then again i have a 350 tpi so what do i know about 6 cylenders lol... good luck buddie

Crux

I don't have a carb lol so I only have the one fuel filter.
One of the probs we were having was no/orange fire and trouble starting..fixed.
The battery *is* bad. I was stating that as a fact..I'm not saying it's making the car stall but it's not keeping charge, either..so it needs to be replaced.

injectors, fuel press. reg., and cleaning fuel rail I'll consider if this(changing fuel pump again) doesn't work.

Thanks, later.

Crux

AWESOME!

Changing the fuel pump worked..for now.
I drove it here and there and burned around 1/4tank..lol
It's got power back and it runs great.

The only thing is that it idles a little roughly(still at 2,000rpm) but at least it's not rough enough to make the car stall.

It could just be me, too..but I think I lost a little throttle response.

The timing was done by ear by my dad and he said it's close but I could get a timing light anyway..which I'll do as soon as I get more money.

Thanks to everyone who helped..I learned alot from this but most of all that "brand new" doesn't mean "working".
lol.

Later all.

1fastam

iTrader: (1)

congrats on it working.theres a lot of good ,knowledgeable people on here,later jimmy

Crux

I spoke too soon.

It's having trouble starting and stalls ocassionally..
But it still runs and when I'm having trouble with it the battery meter(and tach) fluctuate..

The battery is the prime suspect..

Later..looks like I'm not in the clear yet.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

when my battery gauge was fluxing i looked towards my battery to, do a load test at a parts store like checker and if it holds well and the CCA's are still good check your alternator, if i remember correctly thats where the gauge wires in to, i swapped mine and now it sits normally

When the tach fluctuates do you mean just the tach or your idle too?

Crux

The fluctuates at idle when it happens.

Man..I feel stupid..I think I found the culprit already...
...human error. I took it straight to the car wash and washed it myself to avoid having the automatic car wash putting water through my t-tops and I think I accidentally sprayed at the wrong angle and got water on the distributor.

It starts up immediately now and runs fine.
I'll still get my battery tested, though. Thanks Master_disaster.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Atleast you're getting closer to solving it, you just learn by doing it. Unfortunately in my case half the things i've learned, were things i broke on my truck and had to fix myself lol. As far as the battery goes when you get the chance replace it and if it solves it, great, if not keep looking further into it. If it stalls the battery might not have enough juice to make you plugs spark properly so it seems logical enough

Crux

man..

My car broke down today in town. It was a pretty shitty feeling..

The fuel pump went out again. My dad tested it and there was power going to it but it just wasn't coming on. He even tried putting power straight to it.

Well he got a little angry with the people at O'Reillys("How many times do I have to change the pump until I get a good one?!") and so now they're replacing this one which is OE for a slightly more expensive one..just had to pay the difference which is fine.

But there's gotta be something making the pumps do that..
It turns out there's really not much rust..
The car ran fine for about two days until it just started getting hard to start and would bog down when I'd floor it.

I proposed that I actually start working on my own car if he got tired of it..heh..he laughed at me

Since I'm not getting as much money as I thought I'd be getting for income tax..I'm considering swapping in a 3.1litre instead of buying another car with a v8..

I'd like to actually work on my own car, but my dad beats me in experience and tools, hands down..hah.

Well I guess we'll be working on this thing some more.
Oh well.

ploegi

Have you replaced the Sending Unit in the tank? I got to do the fuel pump on my blazer twice, in one day.... because I didn't look close enough. Seems where the wires pass thru mounting plate is a good place for them to corrode, and break.....

Also, make sure the pump has a nice clean ground. I don't remember if the pump grounds back by the tank, or if it runs off somewhere else. Poor connections can burn up an electric motor in relatively short order. May not hurt to clean ALL the connections involved..... Also, I beleive there is a fuse, up by the battery, for the fuel pump as well. Replace it just for good measure, and clean THOSE contacts too.....

Crux

I checked the fuse next to the battery it seemed good.

My dad mentioned the ground, too..and the connections.
Good..this gives me a little hope..as long as he checks it.

Also..the car threw code 32 for the EGR but my dad said it was a false code.
But..since the cat was a problem, too...I heard a bad cat can mess up the EGR?

Geez..this car is jerking me around...will I ever reach a point where this car will be dependable? I'm 17 this car is my freedom lol.

Thanks, Ploegi.

By the way..I'm starting to consider a 3.4litre swap but not until later..I have to get this thing working first to even start looking for the 3.4l.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Dont be gettin down about it, it'll just run you in circles. I've been stuck sooooo many times i've lost count dont feel bad lol. All this does is teach you because once you figure out the problem, youll have in burned into your brain that this is what causes it. Who cares if your dad beats you in experience? OVer half of the techs at a dealership fell bass-ackwards into it and just like the cash, a car is nothing but nuts and bolts, figure out how they work and youl be set. I've kept my camaro goin on nothing but a husky ratchet set and a pair of vice grips, tools are no big deal lol

And why shoot for the v6? Not a good idea IMO, just find another reliable 305, or 350, clean it up, overhaul it, whatever, slap it in and drive off happy, on the side, take your engine and rebuild it, you can either swap it back or sell it to make back your money

1fastam

iTrader: (1)

hey crux ,its like master said dont let it get you down, none of us just woke up one morning and knew everything about cars.the egr is only 2 bolts,just take it off and clean the carbon off it ,take a short piece of hose on it suck in to create a vacuum if it hold vacuum its still good,replace it later jimmy

Crux

Thanks. I decided for the V6 for a couple of reasons.
Mainly because my income tax money won't be as much as I though..I'm closer to being able to afford the 3.4litre swap than another car w/ a 350 already in it. Doing this swap would be a great and easy.(easier-than-v8-swap, anyway) A lower mileage block with better gas mileage and a little more HP that can replace the 2.8 easily.

I'm still confused on how people can say "just throw in a 350". From what I've been reading it would take a hell of alot more than I've got to put in it.
A few things off of the top of my head:
better brakes, better suspension, better transmission, carb(don't forget mine is fuel injected right now), fabricate new engine mounts, change gear ratio(I'm pretty sure), ignition system would have to be changed out...
and more, I'm sure.
I'd be better off getting a donor car to do this. But..if I could afford the donor car in the first place why not just get the donor running and fix *it*..then what happens to mine?
I've read people saying they were still running into things after a year of the v6-v8 swap.

The 2.8-3.4 swap seems a little more in my abilities anyway(though it's still not even close to something I could just do).
Thanks for the help, though..I would really like to know why people keep saying to swap to v8 like it's nothing..the other day(day before my car broke down) at the carwash this guy took interest in my car and we started talking about it and one of the first things he said was "well first you need to get rid of that engine and throw in a 350 or bigger".

I came into this not knowing anything and I'm learning more but there's no substitute to experience..not even step by step directions lol.

Thanks 1fastam and Master_disaster..I don't plan on giving up ever..but my car needs to stop messing with me..haha..I'm still paying insurance while it's not working($192/mo.).

1fastam

iTrader: (1)

if you want to do the swap go for it. but , just in defense for the little 2.8 my son has one in his 89 rs, we took it to the strip last year, its only 1/8 mile. he ran consistent 11.00 secs.had a ball with it drove it home and gets 35 mpg all day long. once we got it running right its been a very reliable car we have learned a lot together, now im trying to pass it on.hope it works out for you. later jimmy

Crux

Thanks..it's nice to hear someone defend the engine I've already got, for once
35mpg? wow..
lol well I've got to get it running before I swap..because even the 3.4 needs a fuel pump haha

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

ahh thats right you have the 2.8 sorry i thought you were going from a 5.0 305 down to the 3.4 and i thouhgt..."why?" lol that makes alot more sense now. Yeah it sounds like something that'd be cool for ya, it'd be like my 305 to350 im doing later this year, bigger engine with minimal mods lol. And you are 100% correct on the experience thing, nothing can make it easy, doing it is the only way, hell i got started cuz i bought a 78 camaro off my friend for 100$ with a blown eninge and i took it apart to see how it ran, it doesnt matter what walk of life you come from, if you have the drive and the want to learn you can do it. IMO that donor car thing sounds like it would be a good secondary for you, down the road get a 5.0 rs or bird, they're nice plus you can keep them under garaged status until you get it all ready ^_^ Keep it up, you'll get it soon enough, oh, and that guy at the carwash is the number 1 example of stupid consumers "WHAT!>? It's not a 350!?? Its no good" I love stupidity but damn it gets on my nerves lol

WHY is your insurance so high!?!? 17 with a 2.8 camaro? and its 192!?? How did they come across that? I'm 17 in a 5.0 RS and i only pay 80 a month...with 2 tickets, that seems a bit too high you may wanna call up the insurance and tear em a new one

zrated57

I like this thread.