Hi Guy’s,

After a trouble free engine removal I’ve had my first set back and it’s got me well stumped. Ok so as you know I got the engine out and I had the UPS man here at the weekend with loads of boxes full of new goodies, gaskets etc. Well, I removed the plenum but as lifted it up so I could get to the two hose clips for manifold coolant heater the one big metal fitting that goes inside the LIM broke away! Half the thread is stuck in the LIM with no way of getting it out. So I decided that now I had to remove the LIM to get it to a shop to have the thread removed. All bolts came out no prob’s but the last one under the Distributor means that the dizzy’s got to come out. Now I’m not happy at all because I didn’t want to touch the distributor. But it’s got to come out to get the LIM off. I’ve done everything in the book, marked the rotor, marked the block and carefully tried to lift it out, but the distributor won’t come! It turns about 4mm and then stops and won’t budge an inch. I’ve tried to gently wiggle it but to no avail. Any ideas guy’s so I can get it out and not end up with me losing the timing?
And yes I did remove the hold down clap!

All the best, Speed.

Hi guy’s,

Thanks for the help yesterday guy’s. I was feeling well down when I went to bed Last night as this is the last part of the engine strip down I needed to do and felt like I’d just failed at the last hurdle.
Anyway, I tried what you said and put my screwdriver in the tiny space between the bottom of the distributor and the block and just gave it two little taps with the hammer and it slid straight out.
What can I say but a HUGE thanks for the help.

I can now get the lower intake manifold to a machine shop to get that rotten thread out. I do have one last question though. I’m thinking that seeing how I’ve got the distributor out and how inaccessible it is when the engine is back in would it be a good idea to change it now? I’ve got the money for another one, and to be honest this one looks shot. If I did get another do I just replace it with the old one so the rotor arm’s in the same position, or do I have to find TDC again? Any ideas on good ones etc??

Again, thanks guy’s.

Speed.

 

Keep letting it spin. The grooves rotate around like a spiral, so the dizzy has to spin to come out.

 

Get a large screwdriver or small pry bar under the base of the dizzy and pry. There is an O-ring that hardens over time and makes it difficult to lift the dizzy out completly.

 

Thanks Guy's,

Too late to try it now, plus it just zapped a bit of my confidence for today after everything else going ok, but I'll give it a go tomorrow. You're sure I'm ok prying on it? It's the one thing I REALLY fear messing with the dizzy and timing hate to get this far and screw up here!

Cheers, fellas. Speed.

 

remove the distributor cap and mark the direction its pointing.. and mark it on the plentum.. reinstall direction as marked timing should be right on

 

Yes, that's how I've removed all dizzys (and oil pump drives for the FWD 660s), and have not had a problem. Just to clarify you pry between the block itself and the base of the dizzy.

As mentioned the rotor will turn when you lift it out, and susiquantally will turn when you re-install it.

 

Yep ok sixshooter cheers, I'll give it a go tomorrow. I've marked the rotor position on the dizzy case and the dizzy shaft on the block. Huge respect will go out to you guy's if it comes off tomorrow, it's done my head in today

Speed.
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thanks ens, I've done that...fingers crossed!

 

dont be affraid of using a little muscle on these old cars, most parts will need it !

 

the timing will be on unless u move the crankshaft.. if u move the crank set it back to factory specs

 

Hi guy’s,

Thanks for the help yesterday guy’s. I was feeling well down when I went to bed Last night as this is the last part of the engine strip down I needed to do and felt like I’d just failed at the last hurdle.
Anyway, I tried what you said and put my screwdriver in the tiny space between the bottom of the distributor and the block and just gave it two little taps with the hammer and it slid straight out.
What can I say but a HUGE thanks for the help.

I can now get the lower intake manifold to a machine shop to get that rotten thread out. I do have one last question though. I’m thinking that seeing how I’ve got the distributor out and how inaccessible it is when the engine is back in would it be a good idea to change it now? I’ve got the money for another one, and to be honest this one looks shot. If I did get another do I just replace it with the old one so the rotor arm’s in the same position, or do I have to find TDC again? Any ideas on good ones etc??

Again, thanks guy’s.

Speed.

 

just get the rota in the right place - same as where the old one was facing. when you say its shot what do you mean? are the teeth showing signs of wear and tear????? how many miles you got on it?

 

No gear teeth are fine, in fact all the push rods rockers and the cam in the engine are all mint, no wear at all. The ignition module and especially the pick up coil look well suspect though, they have lots of rust on them. Car’s done 70,000 by the way.

 

Rather than questioning the integrity of mine, I just replaced it. It'd need it sooner or later, and I prefer sooner in the garage than later on the side of the road.

 

so you just need the cap area then not the whole lot - no need to change now then as you can use the same shaft

 

Ah yeah, could do that zs. I guess I'll keep my options open for the time being, knowing me I'll just change the lot! Just want to start to put it all back together again. The weather here keeps trying to get to spring and I want the car to be tip top to drive! Can't believe I'm having all this to do when I originaly set out to just change the freeze plugs!

Speed.