Hi

I'm still having problems with my 88 2.8 V6. I've changed the Alternator, spark plug wires, spark plugs, air filters, PCV valve and oxygen sensor.

Now the alternator won't charge the battery and I can't see why as it's brand new. When it does start it floods the engine with too much petrol and so a Engine Temp sensor has been ordered.

It was running better 2 weeks ago but since the clutch has been changed it's gone mental.

Any ideas as to what I've missed or can do?

Oh and I've got a new dizzy cap and rotor on the way too.

 

Check all of the engine/chassis grounds. If it ran great, then had a clutch job and ran like crap, this is where to start.

Grounds will affect all the things that you describe. Try hooking a set of jumper cables from the alternator to the battery and see what happens. This will tell you if you have a wiring problem or an alternator problem. New parts can be bad right off the shelf.

Check all connections and grounds again!!

Good luck

 

Thanks Kris, sounds like a start. Any ideas how many grounds there are?

 

There is the one that goes from the battery to the timing cover and there is one that attaches somewhere on the intake to the firewall. There may or may not be a third one on the driver side head that goes to the firewall. I have a 2.8 and don't have one there. Isn't there one for the starter that goes somewhere? That one could have been knocked loose somewhere when the clutch was changed.

 

I always put two minimum of the flat braided ground strap on there, because the cars seem to be inconsistent with their grounds after so many years out of production. The third I use the battery cable for.

1. The back of the cylinder head above the starter to the firewall.
2. The side of the engine block (or cylinder head) to the frame.
3. Negative battery cable from the battery to the rear of the head above the starter.

In addition to these, you should also have a large, oversized ground wire from the negative battery terminal to the body. You do this and your grounding issues are over. I don't like the timing cover or accessory brackets.

 

Update:

Grounds seem to be ok and in place.
Sorted running issues by fitting a new Engine Temperature Sensor.
Alternator is still not charging the battery.
I've put a voltmeter across the alternator i.e. BAT cable and Earth and am getting 12 volts, is this right?
Battery is fine and in good condition.
This is really getting to me now.
Any more ideas???

 

Do you have the receipt for the alternator? Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good.

 

Check the plug that goes onto the alternator. Check those connections carefully. One of those wires is the one that "flashes" the field and starts the alternator charging. Having battery voltage at the BAT terminal (the biggest wire that bolts to the back side of the alternator) just means that the cable is in good shape. You may have to remove the alternator and have it tested.

 

So I've added 2 extra ground cables, one from the alternator to the frame and another from the bellhousing to the frame but no change.
There is also an oil leak covering from the gearbox back. I this likely to be an O ring issue, read this on another thread.
Any more electric ideas or should I send the alternator back? $20 for shipping. Is there any way of checking before I take it off the car?
Oh and I'm getting trouble fault 12, how can I fix this??

 

12 isnt a fault, it lets you know the computer is operating properly. Where did you get the alternator from? Cheap alternators are usually bad rebuilds, i know people that have bought brand new ones that dont work. Its actually pretty common with alternators.

 

Yes it turned out to be faulty alternator, cost me a packet to find that out.
Also the engine temperature sensor was replaced as I was getting "wet" plugs. This did the trick and the car is now running really well..ssshhhh!!

Thanks for the advice fellas.

Oh and I managed to put a dent in the passenger door putting in my garage! D'oh!!