Where can i get a TB Return spring for a 2.8L v6 88' Firebird.

It keeps throwing my TPS off adjustment like so 0.54,0.55,0.53 and the ECM is throwing code 33&34 because of my situation all i need is the TB Spring im certain, but can't find one!!!

 

I can't see how that little variation is throwing a code.

I'm also not understanding how the throttle return spring has anything to do with codes.

I would go to the wreckers and get a complete TB with sensors to swap on and look at the result.

 

we'll i rapidly pressed the plate and released it so it slams on the idle screw and reset my ECM, it threw zero codes, then i slowly released the throttle plate on to the idle screw and got code 33&34 sometimes just 34, i also have my multimeter hooked up to see the TPS jumps, the first time i got a steady 0.54 ignition on and 0.57 engine running, and with the slow releasing plate got a 0.54-.55 ignition on, and 0.56-.57 engine on so it would fluxuate at idle and with ignition on engine off and got a code 33&34 weird eh?

 

Uhh, both of those codes have to do with the MAP sensor, not the TPS, and that small fluctuation that you are seeing is much too small to set a TPS code.

 

They would be for his MAF.

 

yes, the ECM is compensating for the fluxuation, otherwise why would it only trigger when the TPS has a fluxuation when i press/release my throttle plate.

 

Ahh yes, the chart I quickly looked up only listed MAP, I looked at another and it shows MAF as well, didn't notice the year of the vehicle.

I'm more than sure that a .03V fluctuation is NOT going to set a CEL, especially when the diagnostic codes you are getting are not anything to do with the TPS.

 

we'll heres the breakdown on the problems im having, i've been adjusting the idle the way the car's learning procedures follow, plug A & B of ALDL and then turn ignition on, wait 30 seconds, disconnect IAC Connector & EST By pass, remove paperclip from ALDL start car, replace ALDL wait for closed loop 1 flash per second, adjust idle to 500 RPM's in drive. turn car off remove ALDL, turn ignition on adjust TPS to 0.54 plug the IAC up and EST By pass, remove battery term for a minute to reset ECM, start car for 5 seconds and turn off for 10 seconds for the IAC reset, and my idle is like horribly low i can't figure out why been doing what is speculated, i do have a broken fan overdrive switch can that cause any problems? the switch on the passenger head, and i have a passenger exhaust manifold leak in the upper right corner, and i had just found a bit of burnt insulator on one of my spark plugs but even with that there it never cause the car to idle so horrible low, once it kicks into o2 mode or closed loop it runs fine, plus i have a gas smell under rear fender, im going to drop the tank next weekend and also might do a complete head set removal and clean intake,heads,drill that broken exhaust bolt and get all new gaskets think that'll do any good?

the MAF codes 33&34 that i have been getting have to do with other emission parts such as idle and TPS, i've been dealing with these codes for 2 months now got rid of it totally for about a month and 1/2 but started getting the code again for the low idle problem but i had got rid of it today and no codes except code 32 EGR but i believe it's because my exhaust leak has got worse. BUT my idle is horribleeeeeeeee, like isn't the ECM suppose to read the car is cold jump the rpm's and stay decently high? mines jumps up high and falls terribly low on start up for about 5-10 minutes untill i hit closed loop leaving me to believe it's a sensor of some sort? or timing?

 

first id fix the exhaust leak 2 the idle hunting sounds like a nice sized vacuum leak or unless the iac is shot/needs cleaned/passages cleaned. i drove my car around a bit after i reset the iac seemed to help after installing a new iac

id change the iac with a new one unless u already did that
min idle speed 2.8 at trans 450-550 mt 550-650rpm

$30 for a new iac at autozone
make sure to measure the pintle lenght. you can adjust pintle with slight pressure then install. start for 5 sec turn off for 10 then restart should idle much better.

hope this helps

also i noticed on mine that the metal tab that hits the idle stop was bent affected my idle alot bent it back to correct positon. im sure i need to replace that part since its not sapose to bend..

 

Yeah, a 0.05V variation isn't going to throw any codes. Form how you decribe your problem, you might actually have a bad MAF.

For the IAC to actually reset properly, you have to take it out and drive it above 40mph. THis allows the IAC to go between full open and full closed on ECM commands, therefore allowing the ECM to relearn it's position.

Most people don't know this, but as your vehicle speed and rpm increase, the ECM also OPENS the IAC valve. This is how it resets itself.

 

I think i may have the same problem as you, it idles really high then drops really low and then back up again until it gets warmed up. I have talked to a lot of people and some think it may be a vaccume leak, there is another guy on here with the same problem. He thinks his is doing this because of a leak in his LIM. Honestly I have no idea what it is but when/if you figure it out please post and let us all know. Best of luck to you!

 

i have a new IAC, i just drove it 55MPH highway, runs a bit better, got rid of the code 33&34 but i have a code 32 that comes off/on while driving comes on while pressing the gas, goes off sometimes when im just coasting.

the idle has gotten a bit better, i did follow instructions on how to set it as you can read above it was at 500 in closed loop while the car was in drive IAC disconnected and EST discconected, did the TPS joint 0.54 and then reset the battery, drove 55 MPH to reset IAC and ECM, the idle is still crummy, i also cleaned the IAC passages really really good, also pressure washed the plantium and dried it out supperbly.

 

What does this mean?

Code 32 is your EGR. I dont know much about the 2.8 EGR so I will let someone else jump in with possible causes.

 

i used my pressure washer(high pressured soap/water) to clean the upper plantium and throttle body pieces such as the upper piece for the IAC and bottom piece for the antifreeze ports (yes i removed all the electronic pieces and gaskets), then i took a rag and hand cleaned the TB plate and port with some carb cleaner and used a dry rag to clean that all out.

 

Thats what screwed me up. Its called a Plenum.
Did you pressure wash them while they were in the car? Ive always been told, by many people I know, not to do that. Its basically the lazy way to clean your engine, and doing it that way can mess up electronic stuff.
I would check to see if maybe you hit a vac.hose or a sensor around your EGR.

 

Uh no, i would only believe an idiot would pressure wash the engine around electrical parts, i removed the upper planuim, the IAC, TB, TPS, etc. and pressure washed the planium on a cardboard box, also cleaned the upper area where the IAC fits into.

i replaced all my vac hoses, i doubt a leak.