High everybody!

Took my car to a good shop (that a friend works at) and had em check my '89 2.8 auto Fbird over. Well,first I'll list the comp/leak test results and please tell me if they are good,bad,yay,nay,whatever plz .
#1 145comp 5%leak
#3 135comp 7%leak
#5 140comp 5%leak
#2 135comp 8%leak(he said above 8% is bad!so this be the weak one???)
#4 140comp 7%leak
#6 150comp 5%leak

I also have an almost serious leaking intake manifold in the back (why does oil go up in the intake???) A tiny trans leak that a new pan gasket would fix,a Tv/detent cable replacment,motor (and maybe trans?) mounts are sagging bad he said. And I need a new harmonic balancer (replace the CPS sensor time too?). That and my brakes are shot and struts/shocks are dead,he said I need new (expensive) top mount kits for my front struts(true???). How easy are these to replace for the home mechanic with a decent amount of hand tools and a couple floor jacks+jack stands????? Am I gunna pay through the nose or can I do this stuff myself combined with the haynes manual on my weekend??

Thanks

 

looks like ok results, id do a power balance test now... if u need to know how just tell me and ill post the process, oh and im not familiar with the v6 camaros does it use a distributor or coil packs....

 

A power balance test? Never herd of,but would love to learn how to do one . And it uses the distributor.

 

the leak downs are fine, actually normal
cps?? cam/crank position sensor?? these cars dont have one

struts u can do u just have to get a front end aligment after,rear shocks are easy as hell its just getting to the top mounts thats a lil time consuming,they are inside the car behind the rear seats under the carpet.

yes the top strut mounts are what 75-100$'s a side i think

the balancer is easy enought to replace but why did he say urs is bad?if ur gonna change it this would be a good time to install a new timing chain if the motor is due for one


if ur not out to beat the snot out of the car leave the motor and trans mounts alone, u would know if either is broken speciallt the trans mount cause ur trans would bounce off the floor of the car everytime u hit the gas

 

ok well since u have a distributor its real easy start the car get it up to temp, now unplug one of the wires from the dizzy cap note the change in the motor, should stumble and drop in idle. Note dont run it with the wire unpluged for more than about 5 seconds, u dont want the cylinder loading up with fuel it can mess up your cat, now plug it back in and unplug the next one note the change, continue doing this until u have checked every cylinder this way. Now for the result what ever cylinder had the least change on the idle when its unpluged will be the weak one, because it is working the least so when u kill it you wont notice much of a change if any. but with your compression/leakdown test results they are gonna probably all be pretty equal in power....Disclaimer, dont do this on a coilopack car, their is a different process to use otherwirse u can fry the coil packs/alot of other electrical stuff....

 

You cylinder pressures and leak down results are fine...nothing to worry about.

The oil you are seeing on your manifold isn't traveling up the manifold, it's actually comming out of your distributor o-ring. Our cars are VERY famous for this and people always mistake it for a leaky manifold, replace the gasket, and still have the same leak.

The motor/trans mounts are normal to have to be replaced at this time.

The Trans leak from the pan should be done in conjunction with your kickdown cable since the pan has to come off to replace the cable anyway.

As for the balancer, why do they say you need a new one? Unless the outer portion is actually seperated from the rubber ring, then you shouldn't need one.

The shocks/struts and mounts will definitly make a difference. Personally, I feel that mounts should be replaced whenever you replace the struts since they are in there the same amount of time and do the same amount of work to keep you going straight.

Everything should be able to be done at home, the hardest part will be the struts. You'll have to raise the vehicle and place it on jack stands, then put your jack under the lower control arm to keep the spring from shooting out and possibly injuring you. If you are even the least bit worried about this part, then have the shop do this for you, as they will also need to align it.

Rear shocks are a peice of cake.

I would go in theis order if you have to break it up: Brakes, Shocks/Struts, Engine/Trans mounts, Kickdown cable/trans pan/Dist. O-Ring.

It's not uncommon for cars our age to need about $3000 worth of work to bring them back up to snuff. Most of these things wear out gradually and we don't even notice, so it doesn't get replaced at the proper time. Welcome to the wonderful world of 15+ year old cars.