hey guys was wondering if anyone could help me out with this one!!!???...i jus checked my diagnostic connector wit paperclip to get any fault codes...i got code 32...but another weird thing was every time i had key on engine off and connected pin a and b wit paperclip my fan would kick on???? once i take the paperclip out the fan shuts off?? does anyone know what code 32 is and why my fan would kick on with jus connecting the 2 pins??? thanks..

 

fan is designed to turn on when checking diagnostic codes to check proper operation of stuff.

code 32 egr failure

 

thanks but how come on one list of codes i just saw says it is for maf sensor failure....and my fan doesnt come on when the car is on or even heats up....my temp gauge doesnt work or at least never shows the temp go up....so obviously if my temp sensor isnt working then the fan wouldnt kick on right???

 

When you insert your paper clip into the ALDL connector it puts the computer into a diagnostic state, and it is normal for the fan to come on and for the computer to flash codes. Now you have a problem when the fan doesn't come on like mine did once

 

ok so would a faulty coolant temp sensor cause my fan to not come on??

 

bad sensor or relay, or the fan could be shot

there are 2 sensors one for the quage/ecm the other is just for the fan

i forgoet which is in which cyl head though but alls the fan switch does is supply ground to the relay, if u wanted u could cut that lead and ground it to the body/chassi then ur fan will be on anytime the key is on

 

1. Need to know what year car.
2. Pass side head has the fan switch, right at the lifting eye, the worst possible place for it.
3. Relay and associated wiring is good if the fan kicks on with the ALDL connected for diagnostics.
4. Get a vacuum pump and hook it up to the box that is connected to the EGR valve by the vacuum hose. I forgot which terminals it is, but 2 of the terminals are supposed to close (need a DMM for this too, should read 0 ohms) when vacuum is applied. If not, you have a bad solenoid assembly and they run about $40, unless the price has skyrocketed in the past couple years.
5. You CAN remove and clean the EGR valve... it's just a pain to do.

:edit: I have an 87 which originally had the fan switch. When the 3.1 was swapped in, the guys at the shop who did it never switched over my new fan switch and I have been running without one since '04. My fan runs off of the ECM.

 

Oh, and I forgot one thing. Start your engine, and push up on the EGR diaphragm while it's idling (beware: exhaust parts are HOT). If the engine stutters, stumbles, and/or stalls, your EGR valve and passages are good and working, and the solenoid assembly needs to be replaced.

 

well i checked the egr and there is a vacuum line thats not attached somewhere...its a line that comes off the thermostatic switch going back and down somewhere..checked it out and looks like i found where it might go but what i thought it connected to had no hole for any air to go in or out...it might be clogged with carbon....its an 89 rs 2.8...

 

1. 2 vacuum lines go to the EGR solenoid, which is bolted to the bracket that also holds the ignition coil. The top one goes TO the valve, the bottom one comes FROM the TB. There should be a T somewhere in the top line that runs to the 4-wire box that controls the solenoid and monitors the vacuum supply running to the valve.

2. 89 model year does NOT have a thermostatic switch. The EGR runs right off of the ECM. The thermostatic switch died with either the 2.5L L4 in '86 or the 2.8 carb in '85, not sure of which.

3. Did you do the engine running test?