i have a 1990 3.1 firebird... it runs.. that hurdle was accomplished over the winter through many cold and long hours... but if i go for a drive and come back to leave wherever half the time the car wont start... i have spark and i have gas... i put in a new starter and new positive wire.. i have a small oil leak in my valve covers because my uncle messed up may gasket and i just dont have the time to do it yet.. being the minimal job it is but thursday is payday and thats getting fixed.. but can you tell me why it wont start and i read all about the security... doesnt it just arrest the spark... because i have spark and fuel just no ignition..

 

VATS affects the starting system. Wrong key, no crank. At least that's the way GM did it. However, aftermarket systems use a disable relay (or more than one) that can be tied into any system, such as the ignition, fuel, or the standard starter circuit.

 

If your car will start sometimes I would be looking beyond the security. Shorting fuel injectors can do this some times. Ohm out the windings with a dvom. You should be getting around 15 ohms. A bad one will show between 4 and 12. Otherwise check compression and get an idea of the power balance

 

Never had a GOOD fuel injector ohm out above 13 ohms... I average 12.6 with no problems.

They guy has fuel and spark, but it sounds as though his problem is a no crank when hot situation. However, he needs to confirm this...

 

An injector will still operate at 12 ohms as long as the fuel keeps the injector cold. A crank no start may also be cause by a bad fuel pump. It can be checked by getting an amperage waveform. A bad pump motor will have even drops in the waveform. A bad pump will show a constant low amparage as soon as the plastic pump gets warm enough to break free from the motor.

 

Well, like I was hinting at, his problem depends on what his definition of "has spark and fuel, just no ignition" is. If it don't crank when hot, that's one thing. If it cranks but don't fire, that's another.

So, you mean to tell me that not only the set of injectors that are on my engine right now (2 partially clogged but still running), but the 2 other sets I have (for a 3.4 and a 305, both gotten by mistake), and the set on my perfectly running Grand Prix 3.1 (yes, it was a 3.1, 1993 year, sold 2 years ago), that ohmed out to 12.6 ohms on average (within .2 ohm) are or were all bad?

 

didnt mean to leave you in suspense.. but i replaced my ignition module and my problems were solved..