evol

When im goning down the road slow(1-10 mph id say) or at a stop light the rpms drop to 100ish id say then bak up to like 600 or whatever it is and it keeps doing it till you either give it a little gas and then the rpms stay constant. Sometimes it will die. When i had it in the shop last they said the Egr valve was bad or erg valve which ever it is but would that cause it... any info would be great help

Roan

Until a pro responds, here's a couple of results from using the site search:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/5...dle-speed.html
91 V6 idle speed


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/3...g-problem.html
rough idle and stalling problem

evol

There is an idle learn procedure that can be done to hasten a better idle. Note that daily driving will also cause the idle to be learned. It just takes longer and the idle can surge and the engine stall in the mean time.

What could cause it to have to relearn the idol cause when they worked on it they did the intake gasket and the transmission got rebuilt... dunno if either of those has anything to do with reseting it

And i should also replace the egr valve and take out the IAC valve from throttle body and clean it?


also is there some special cleaner i need to use to clean the IAC valve? or just use a rag and wipe it clean?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You CAN clean the digital EGR, but you will need some security Torx bits to separate the parts. Use PB Blaster, carb or FI intake cleaner, or something similar to clean all of the carbon off of the IAC pintle and out of the bores.

mtwlkn122

Does cleaning your EGR ruin it at all tho?...if not wanna clean mine out for me! I will give you a free can of PB blaster if you do!...i need to come see you anyway once you get your car running cause i need to try out my laptop and cable on your car. I still cant get the stupid thing to connect to my car!...errr i really need to get some logs down so i can tune this stupid car!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The EGR coils are outside of where the pintles ride, surrounded by a steel core which is where the pintles sit. If my EGR had worked in my Grand Prix (computer or harness fault, the valves worked when hooked to a battery), I know I wouldn't have had any problem with it as ALL of the passages were clean. It took me 2 weeks and a lot of work to get everything cleaned out. I also need to return to the donor car and get the EGR assembly (and clean THAT) so I don't have to think about a code 32.

I'll need that computer and cable to help find something out. That is, once I figure out which injector I switched out with a bad one (have a pile of 6 extra ones and I need to find the one I took out of the #4 cylinder so I can put it back). I've been having intermittent stalling problems that seem to be ignition related and I want to look at the RPM signal to hopefully find the cause, be it the ICM or the PU coil. It should be done by Tuesday at the latest.

mtwlkn122

Haha alright man well ill PM with my cell...idk if i gave it to you yet. I really need to get this laptop and cable thing figured out cause I had to pass up on the ls1 car i was looking at due to financial reasons...mostly insurance reasons as you know im still young lol. Either way im back to my orginal plan of doing a turbo set up. Im still gonna need help this winter cause im going to pull the motor and go through it all and make sure shes all ready for a future turbo build. I have to get my hands on a rotating engine stand and crane...prolly borrow the crane and get the stand from summit or maybe even harbor frieght haha(cant beat $40). Either way man ill let you know.


Back to contributing to this thread lol....I would also check to see if you have any sort of vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks are a PITA to find but they cause so many problems that diagnose as bigger problems. Its easier to make sure you have that all figured out before you go and try and fix more expensive parts. Just my .02 cents