Hello people,

So I been working and working on my Camaro for a very long long time after I bought it from a guy that never took care of it. I changed out many sensors and replaced many parts for those of you that know me....yup I'm still having problems with the camaro. So I was told that the Fuel pump was replaced and I did hear the buzz that you hear just before turning it on but kept having the symtoms of a bad fuel pump and hoping it was not the fuel pump. So heres my question and before I put it out there yes I did a search but did not find much for our v6 camaros.

I want to buy a new fuel pump but what do you guys recommend? The ones at autozone I was told do not last long. Should I just go stock or do any of you guys know of a upgraded one to get?

Thanks people in advance...

P.S. Bird it was the fuel pump EERRRRR!!!!!!

 

I'm running a stock replacement for a '91 Camaro 350 in my Z24, it's holding up just fine... I got it from Advance Auto about 3 yrs ago.


I got that because the V6 pump couldn't keep up with my engine.

 

i would say it doesnt matter which one you buy because i have talked to specialists on which one to get and i have replaced it over 3 times and it still dies anyways.

 

Anyone have a part number for the Corvette one a lot of guys are running, or a particular year range that is desirable? I've heard those are slightly better built than ours for some reason...

 

Corvette fuel pumps?....do you think that would work on our V6 camaros?

 

Unlike OBDII and newer models, our fuel system isn't a one-way thing (which is why newer cars' fuel pumps use the PWM system, IIRC). Excess fuel just gets dumped back into the tank through the return lines.

 

This bites man. I didnt know that fuel pumps go out even thou they make that noise or buzz before your turn the car on. Well heres the good news. When I had a leak near the tank I dropped it and realized that someone cut a hole on the frame to get acess it the fuel pump.


So should I just stick to stock?

 

What you could do to make things easier, since you already have the tank down, is to go to a junkyard and get a fuel pump hatch from an early-90's Grand Prix, Lumina, Beretta, Regal, or Cutlass Supreme (in the front of the trunk, by the back seat) and cut the hole in the rear floor. That way, you won't even have to get under the car to replace the pump next time it goes (and it will go again). That's what I plan to do when mine goes.

I would go with a stock Delco pump (if they aren't too expensive). You'll also want to replace the strainer sock and drain and clean out the tank while it's out. Maybe even seal the tank as well.

 

Oh no no the hole your talking about is already cut on the floor/rear hatch. I had dropped the tank to fix a leak awhile back and thats when I had realized that someone already made a cut out from the floor of the hatch. So this makes it easier for me to change out the fuel pump.

Why would you go with a Delco pump again? sorry man I just want to make sure I know what I'm putting in thats all.

Thanks again man...

 

I used what ever is sold at autozone, no complaints.

 

From the spark plugs to the oil filter to the ignition module to the fuel pump, unless I can't avoid it, I keep it factory (except the MAF sensor... that thing is WAY too expensive to replace every 2 years and I'm due to do it again). The other crap may work as well as the factory stuff, but it seems to burn out faster or just not work right in some cases because it's not held to guidelines and tolerances that are as strict as Delco. Heck, you could possibly go to a parts store and buy 4 alternators from their cheapo brand, and 3 out of the 4 could be bad... As a case in point, I bought a washer pump a couple of months ago thinking mine was bad. Mine is the kind that plugs into the wiper motor and is changed in like 30 seconds... So I change the thing, and right out of the package, the NEW pump is seized because it wasn't made right.

I think I'm going to have to stop going to my local AutoZone... They usually don't have what I need, and if I need anything other than my ignition module tested.. "Oh, we can't test that." Bullcrap... I saw the instructions and the harness to test my 730 ECM right there in the cabinet when the guy was hunting for the harness for the ignition module. And for synchromesh 5W-30 transmission oil, just 3 days ago... "Oh, we're out. It's ROYAL PURPLE (like $12 a quart) and we haven't had any in 3 weeks."

 

Wow good info your sharing man, thanks. Thank you very much man.

Autozone...thats my secound home lol....I love that place....

 

Whats up man....

I might have to do that. Have you bought a fuel pump from them and how long has it been?

 

been about 3 years

Was $75-80 or something like that.

Bought it will ill gotten gains, gambling

What kills the pumps quick is running low on gas all the time.
Belive it or not the gas is what keeps the pump cool.

 

Alright man autozone it is...

I'll look into it....

 

Even thou the fuel pump is making the buzz or that noise it makes before you turning the car on would that still mean that the fuel pump is gone?

 

Is the system pressurizing when you first turn the key on? Is the system losing pressure when the pump stops?

 

Hey Maverick thanks for the reply. Now if the system pressurizing when I first turn the keyon....how can I tell that without using a gauge?

Now theres a release valve on the fuel rail towards the back where if you press down in the center of that valve you see a stream of gas go up. Now when I turn the key I believe it pressurizing because when I release gas it builds up a stream and when the pump stops that stream of gas doesnt go as high as it used to. I remember that stream used to hit the hood, but now it doesnt.

Maverich I this info helps you out. I read somewhere that it could be my ignition module but I'm very very positive that its the fuel pump.

 

The only real way to tell if the system is getting enough pressure is with a gauge. The fuel pump could be supplying fuel but not enough to properly pressurize the system.

 

I kind of knew you where going to say that. So I guess you dont recommend buying a new fuel pump untill checking the pressure right?

 

Well, that depends on what the symptoms are. Is it stalling out when you are driving? Is it misfiring badly when idling or going down the road (you can feel it while driving and hear it quite well when idling)? Is it throwing either a code 44 or 45 (lean or rich)? What do the plugs look like?

Since you have the access hole, it might be a good idea to see if the wiring to the pump had been damaged during the cutting of said hole, along with the driveshaft hump connector and the rest of the wiring in the system.

BTW, some 90-91 models had a TSB regarding the wiring for the ignition module, and also for the module itself. However, if the module has recently been replaced with an AC/Delco replacement, the TSB part number will not apply to the module as the part has been superseded by the part/number Delco now uses for the module.

 

Thanks again for the reply maverich. As for the symptoms, yes showing all symtoms of a bad fuel pump. Just gets to me that I'm hearing the fuel pump work thou lol.

Thank you for the advice of checking the wire....checked them and they look fine.

Ignition module. I think I should check that out just dont like messing with the distr and all. I recall someone was having the same problem as I am and it just so happens that it was the ignition module. I'll do a search here to see how to replace it and get to it. . .

But the symptoms I'm having be similar to a bad ignition module....thanks again Maverich!!! You the man bro

 

I believe in the DFI/ECM section there is a sticky about the 3.1 TSB... I'll have to see if I can find a link...

Basically, the TSB has to do with electronic interference on the reference return wire (IIRC), and cutting/chafing of the wires in that area. Could also be a ground issue, I suppose. Maybe try a ground wire between one of the cap screws and the body to engine ground strap bolt (body side, of course... the engine end is a real PITA to get at).

 

Maverich if you had to put money on this question where would you put it...

After reading this post would you put your money saying its the fuel pump or not?

 

Well, what exactly are the symptoms? I've had problems with the module where it wouldn't let me time the engine (#1), and bucking and heavy missing along with the tach needle jumping around (#2, my $50 AC/Delco module) before it finally died (people at school DROVE the car into the shop, messed with it for 3 WEEKS, and I and a few other classmates had to PUSH my car OUT of their area, AFTER I spent almost $100 I didn't have at the time for them to "fix" my car, whereupon I replaced what I suspected was bad all along, the module).

Keep in mind this simple slogan: "No spark, NO squirt." The ignition module is the primary go-between for the ECM and the engine. Without the module, the pickup coil, the ignition coil, and the fuel injectors are useless. The pickup coil can't tell the computer the engine is turning over, the coil can't fire the spark plugs, and the fuel injectors won't spray because the ECM has no idea the engine is trying to run. This is the same with ANY electronically-controlled fuel injection engine, no matter who makes it.

 

I lnowthis isdeep into this post (i wish I had seen it earlier) but a pump for an 86 fiero is 15 bucks on ebay so there is no need to over pay for something Timmy

 

no worrys I dont mind anyone jumping in. As for fuel pumps on ebay....I dont trust them to much. If anything is wrong with the pump I can always take it back to the store with a warranty, ya know.

But I might have to looking into that...

 

you get what you pay for.


E3270 is rated for 50-60 GPH (189-227 LPH), that would be the one to use if the engine isn't stock.

 

I understand every ones thoughts, but I have personally had good luck with ebay items especially with companies (in the us i might add) I have one of these pumps in my cosworth vega as we speak and wouldn't be afraid to drive it far away from home the reason I don't has to do with the cosworth only belts that are on it being 34 years old wouldn't want to toss one of those puppies far from the house because I only know of 1 place to get them and it's an intenet purchase too, but just to share the fiero pump has the same pressure rating should be the same flow rating too and is $115 less expensivebut if you must get one from a store they are 50% less than the other listed,,Timmy

 

OK who wants to come replace my fuel pump? Driving home from my third neck surgery in three yes, mine went out on me. In my condition I can't drop the tank or do much of anything for the next few months. BUT... I need the car for therapy and Dr appointments so I'm kinda screwed. Don't have $300+ for a shop to do it either. :-(

 

Just do it from the top of the tank in the hatch area. I would never want to pull the tank to get to the fuel pump. Make a nice panel for it to seal it off when your done. Get a walbro 255lph pump and call it a day.

 

agreed my iroc has an acess panel i made and i can swap any one of my tripple fuel pumps in about 10-15 minutes

 

Will tin snips cut the panel? I'm kinda worried about cut off wheel sparks , especially not knowing if fuel vapors are present.
Got an air TeX pump for a decent price from a place in Florida.
Would love to get a top of the line pump. But disability check pretty much mandates otherwise. As is cause of having to get the pump I'll be on top ramen meals for about a week.lol

 

a good pair of tin snips will work , u still have to drill a couple holes to get the tin snips started , a step drill bit is perfect for this , just be carefull the tank isnt to far down under the sheet metal

 

OK thanks.
The air TeX pump will get me by thru summer won't it?

 

#1 TIP, DON'T USE THE QUICK CONNECT WIRE SPLICERS THEY INCLUDE.

twist, crimp, solder [ not with a flame]

 

Got the pump today! Cutting the panel and installing tomorrow. Gonna either crimp or twist. Not fond of unnecessary heat near gas.

The only extra crispy skin I like is from KFC.

 

The pump i got had the stock connection point for the 12vdc?? Is that what your talking about when you say the quick connections?

 

i dont think u will run into issues witht he air-tex pump i have 3 of them in my iroc , i bought the airtex vette zr-1 pumps each pump is 190lph i have 2 on full time and the 3rd comes on at over 12 psi of boost , ive had them in the iroc for over a year now with a base fuel presure of 68 psi and they have yet to die


yes i know my base presure is high but the lowest i can get it with my smallish return line is 64 psi so i set it to 68 psi so id be sure fuel presure wouldnt drop as fuel demand went up under boost

 

OK awesome. Just gotta get fuel hose and hose clamps.
Gonna double clamp everything.

 

Get the fuel line or high pressure (t clamp style) ones at a parts store. They are solid metal with a bolt and nut on them. There like 5 bucks for enough to get the job done.

 

my AZ pump came with those quick connects like you get with a tach, had to go back in as the thing melted and cooked away, the juice was jumping an arc a good half inch at one time, when the gap got about 3/4in it stopped working.

dunno why it didn't blow up cept for the lack of oxygen in the tank.

 

to make those hose do a sharp bend and not kink, put hose clamps in the mist of the bend and tighten just enough to force it to stay round.

 

ill take pics of my setup tommorow for ya , ill get yelled at though since i only have standard clamps on mine , even though i know better


just gota rember one of these days when im at napa to get the correct clamps

 

Ahh I see. I never got a az pump before so thats why i was lost on what quick connections they gave ya.

 

I'll see if I can get the good clamps. But funds are like dollar menu til the first.

 

You can find good clamp at the hardware store in the garden hose section.

I found that out the other day, had to buy a new end for the hose, it came with a clamp 3x better then anything ive gotten at an auto parts store. Which are all flimsy cheap.

 

the clamps are cheaper then replacing the car

 

True , but when you only have like $6 til the first and you have a wife to feed... budget is a major concern.

 

hell i understand that my gf dont get paid till the 28th and i wont get paid till the 3rd , i think between the both of us we have about 10-12 bucks left