Alright so after driving the car around for a bit its stopped hunting for an idle speed when I'm coming to a stop.

I read somewhere on these forums that when the car detects the speed being 14mph or less and coasting that the ECM considers the the engine to be in an idle state, so something was up and it started to hunt when the car was in an idle state but still moving that it couldn't find the proper idle speed but when the car is not moving it was fine. I'm not sure why it was doing that.

But progressively as I drove it more it stopped hunting so much and it got better, and now after driving it for 40 miles on the highway, when I came to a stop it didn't hunt again.

And now it idles pretty smooth and it idles really nice actually, and yes Maverick when I adjusted the screw I also adjusted the TPS, so now its running really great. Its idling at about 900-1000RPM so thats fine with me just as long as it idles nice and smooth. It started to hunt once earlier today and there for a second it idles at 500RPM but then it lost it and idled up back to 1000 so whatever.

Thanks again guys for the help. I appreciate it!

 

Good to see you finally got the engine to behave.

The idle state, as I've seen in a lot of PROM calibrations, has the speed limit set for 2 MPH. Just FYI.

 

Yeah me too!

But alright thanks, I still don't have my service manual yet so just going off of what I heard on here, I just thought it was weird that I would get the car to about 20mph and let it coast and it would idle fine until it hit just under 15 then it would start to idle funny, but its not doing it now (knock on wood) so its whatever.

 

I've got a simular problem of hunting at Idle and stalling at long red lights with obvious fuel odor, So I've been following this thread pretty close, aways back you mentioned changes in engine speed when you applied the brakes you said you checked the vac lines but did you check the diaphragh in the brake booster, find a vent port in the canister with the engine running and spray some starting fluid in it( I don't use carb cleaner) might help might not.

 

No I didn't check the diaphragm, but now the problem seems to be minimal, it used to be so bad that when I would hit the brakes that the engine speed would be raised 250-500rpm, but now its maybe 100-200, I haven't touched it since its been working fine, I hope that this thread helped you and your idling problems animute. Good luck.

 

What condition are your vac lines in? If you can't touch one with a finger without coming out with a black finger, they need to go as they are deteriorating and are probably cracked really badly. Same for the booster hose. Also, check to make sure the vacuum tee in the rear of the upper plenum (that the booster hose connects to) is actually tightened in the plenum. On my 2.8, that thing was so loose it practically fell out, and it needed about 3 full turns to seal. Also, check the connections at the PCV hose ends and the grommet the valve sits in (may need to seal the valve with a bit of electrical tape), check the elbow thing that the air tube running between the pass side valve cover and TB bellows connects to (and the bellows end as well, better yet, the whole bellows), check for tightened bolts and nuts (especially the valve covers... BIG vac leak there if they're loose), and check the vacuum tank "ball" under the driver's side battery tray by plugging the hose where it tees into the cruise modulator (or at the upper plenum).