Well, i've put a few miles on it but my pantyhose air filters were starting to fail so i finally got to work on a filter box. It's still very rough but the plan is to have it seal up against the hood and draw in all it's air through the cowl.

The "front" side will have a removable panel to make it easier to bolt down to the stacks. I'll probably end up using 1/4" lexan just to make it look better. The back side holds a 16"x8" K&N.


In this pic you can see the rough opening i cut in the back of the cowl hood, the filter is not in place obviously..




Here you can see how it sits on the engine, filter is in place.





I'll post more pics after it's all finished.

 

Thats just cool

 

Pantyhose lol.

 

Man that is flat out awesome. It looks good and sounds pretty good too. You must be very skilled.

 

You have no idea, lol. Purple is pretty nutty, much like a fruitcake haha.

Who isn't a little?

 

I blame Jim Beam.. haha



the lexan window is done and it's all set up to finish weld then paint.

I spent a few hours tonight working on the wiring, got the TCC wired in, 4th gear switch, cooling fan override, TCC override and some other small stuff like the check engine light.

I need to find a whole center console since mine is pretty much shot from the PO's Megashifter install.. but i think i finally got the shifter adjusted right so driving it should be a little more fun... and i found $5 in quarters under the megashifter.

 

I'm loving this, but please tell me you're going to seal the air cleaner to the underside of the hood so all the air comes from outside! it'd be too easy with your setup!

 

Make sure the filter is in place at all times, don't want to be sucking the leaves off your cowl. That motor is going to move some air.

What are you going to limit the RPM to? I've seen a Mazda 60v6 in a 323 with ITB's spinning to 11k...

 

Damn, 11 grand? Just once right? LOL. Link please!

 

Just 7K for now, i still haven't seen any official documentation on the limits of the stock 3500 rods. I'm also not sure what the limits of the 700R4 are.. lol



I'm in the middle of remodeling my upstairs bathroom, i have a day or 2's work left then i should be able to get back to work on the car.

 

700r4 limits are fairly low, you need to get a 10 or 13 vane rotor in the pump for it to enough line pressure to be strong much past 5-6k.

 

The picture from the interior is WIN, pure WIN.

Only pansies use filters on stacks. :P

I think one of the biggest problems with revving a 700R4 is that the sunshell expands at higher RPM causing it to interfere and come in contact with parts around it.

 

Intake is done and functional, I mounted the IAT right under the filter and so far the intake temps are ambient. The only problem now is that the air box is directing all the intake noise right into the car. At WOT it's loud enough to scramble your brains.



I put some more miles on it today, trans is still acting a little funny but overall it's doing pretty good.

Here is a short video of a bumpy ride around the block.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5rq_dxQgL0

 

so, when do we see dyno numbers?

 

Maybe June.. i dunno for sure. I have the local dyno reserved in August for the v6z24.com bash so it could be as late as then. track times will probably come first, they are higher on my priority list.

 

Best thing you can do with the trans...REPLACE IT. World-Class T5...ALL THE WAY.

 

Fail.

If you're gonna go stick, either a TKO, or T56.

 

I didn't mention either of those because I didn't know if there was an easy way to make either of those work on a 60*V6.

Am I wrong?

Besides, a G-Force rebuilt World-Class T5 would more than stand up to the power levels he's currently hitting.

 

It would take almost as much work to mate a WC T5 to a 660 as it would a TKO or T56.

Besides, the "WC T5" isn't all that much stronger than a "Non-WC T5."

 

TKO can be bolted up, no problem, finding the bell-housing is another story. Know a guy with one in his 4th gen that used to have a 3400/Borg Werner, now going with a 3500 and a billet turbo lol.

 

Powerglide with a trans brake

 

I'm not mad, just disappointed...

 

Fail....

4L80E if you want to keep the skirt on. :P

 

There is a 4L65E for sale locally for $200 but i think we're putting the cart before the horse here. My 700R4 is practically new, i have a feeling it's just the TV cable that's causing the shifting issues.

I'm planning on taking it out tomorrow for some troubleshooting. We'll see what happens then.

 

How is it hard to bolt a World-Class T5 up to a 60* V6 if they were bolted up to a 2.8/3.1/3.4 since 1988?

I know it's a bit trickier with the 3x00, but I know there's a bellhousing that makes it work. I think it's out of a particular year of S-10...

Correct, the stock World-Class T5 is not much stronger than a Non-World-Class T5. But I'm not saying stick a stock World-Class T5 up to his 3500. Even though, it probably could handle what he's currently putting out. The G-Force World-Class T5 is what I was suggesting, jokingly, as I already know that Dave won't go manual.

 

You could stick adamantium gears in a t5 and it would still break. The t5s weakness is it's case, not the internals.

T56 or the aisin 6spd that's in the new v6 manual camaro.

But there isn't anything wrong with a 700r4 for street duty.

 

There was never a WC T-5 behind a 660. they were only behind some V8s, mostly in the Mustangs. So this would require a custom clutch plate, or adapter(s) to use a V8 bellhousing and clutch. Hmm, the TKO and T-56 would need much of the same. I suppose the other option is to use a custom input shaft, but then you're swapping about most of what makes a WC T-5 a WC.

For the difference in strength, it's not worth swapping a WC T-5 in. Since the stock non-WC T-5 will stand up to what he has. I have personally "put way more the Non WC T-5 can handle" through a couple.

The dual pocket 660 bellhousing is out of an early F-body, I have one of those too.

 

I know the case is ONE of the MANY weak points of the T5. G-Force also happens to make there own, STRONGER, cases. Even with the stock case, it would probably handle the 300-350HP he's putting out. If he doesn't rev it past 7,500RPM too often...

Like I said, I was joking when I wrote the origianl post. His 700R4 will be FINE when he figures out the issue.

You might want to rethink that statement. What T5 do you think started coming behind the 2.8/3.1 V6's after '88? Also, what kind of T5 do you think sat behind the 3.4L V6 in the 4th-Gen?

It was the WORLD-CLASS T5. Or, at least that's what the people who rebuild these transmissions tell me.

 

There are internet rumours of them being "WC", but they are not.

 

I may be wrong but I believe the 4th gen manual 3.4s had t-56s.

 

I wish!

 

I'll give you a direct quote from my contact at G-Force about a rebuild I wanted them to do:

I wrote:
"I just picked up a T-5 that came out of a '95 Camaro with a 3.4L V6. Is this a World Class T-5? Can G-Force rebuild this transmission?"
These guys only rebuild the World-Class T5's. That's why I asked.

They replied:
"Yes, since it is a 6 cylinder."

No offense, six_shooter, but I'm gonna believe the group that actually rebuilds these transmissions over you. Believe what you want...

 

Do you have proof of this?

 

T5 transmission from a 94 Camaro 3.4L. Photo taken by me, 10 minutes ago.

 

He won't?

 

I used to, I did a bunch of research on it, and found some truthful links, that show why people beleive they are WC when they are not. IIRC it had to do with peole looking at one feature of the case and because it was the same as or similar to the WC, then it "had to be a WC," when it had none of the internal features that make a WC T5 and WC T5.

 

He seems to like wearing the skirt. :P lol

 

When I stopped by his way last year, he didn't seem at all interested in going with a manual for this swap...

 

lol, you guys are funny.


I went auto so i could have a consistent trans that shifts fast, T5's are junk and i'm not going to shell out $2K+ just for an upgraded one. If i went manual it would be a T56 since i believe someone recently found a bellhousing for one that fits the GM Metric pattern.


Problem solved with the 700R4, the TV cable needed tightened up a little more and it was also a quart low on fluid. I drove it around all day yesterday and other than some small issues it drove perfect.

Today I worked on cleaning up the engine bay. 99% of the wiring is loomed and cleaned up and i re-routed a few other things to make it easier to work on. I also flipped the fuel rail around so the fuel fittings are in the back, then flipped around the balance rail for the ITB's so all the vacuum connections are back there as well. Now the fuel lines are far away from the coil packs, and the brake booster has a better vacuum port.


One bigger change i made was that i found the original vacuum ball and modified it to use as a vacuum buffer for the MAP sensor. It's now on the firewall with a 3500 map sensor mounted to it. This should make the ECM a little happier since i've been getting a high MAP code almost every time i drive it.


More updates and pics to come...

 

Almost a month later.. (damn, i feel lazy). After some more miles and other random upgrades like a big trans cooler and a few other changes it developed another trans issue. I now only have 1st and reverse. Of course when it decided to do this i was in traffic so needless to say it was a fun ride home.

I've checked the governor, works/looks good and the TV cable is adjusted correctly so i'm probably going to drop the trans tomorrow night and pull the valve body out to see what's going on.


I've only datalogged it to around 6K RPM but so far it's almost 3 points leaner than it was in the Z24.. same VE tables so that basically translates to the fact that it's making quite a bit more power with the ITB's.

More updates soon...

 

Hmm thats no good. Let us know what it turns out to be!

 

found the "new"servo seals were weak, replaced them and also found the 3-2 valve stuck. It's all good now.. shifts a little late to 2nd at part throttle and 3rd is soft but the car is on the road at least.

time for more tuning, she's really lean at WOT.

 

be aware the 700 has issues above 7k rpms with the 4th gear clutch pack.
dosent matter what gear u are in above 7k the 4th clutch pack tries to aply

 

That sounds like it'll make for some fun carnage pics...


As long as it lasts for the rest of the year i'll be fine, i don't have my posi carrier in yet and there are a lot of small details to iron out before i'll hit the track. I'm still planning on some dyno time in August though.

 

it wont produce any real carnage,when u get that high u in the rpms it starts to aly the clucthes but not fully, just enough to heat them up and burn them up,warp the steels.

put the car in nutral and rev it and see if it moves foward,thats the easy test to see if its starting to warp the steels plates between the clutches

 

Been out driving/tuning and figured i should post some new pics...











Got the trans issues pretty much squared away. I broke down and ordered a VSS for a 90-92 Caprice with the D8B police interceptor option, it's got both the cable output and the magnetic so i can make my ECM happy and keep the stock speedo.

The car still needs an alignment bad but i want to swap in a new pair of front springs so i can lift it up an inch or so before i take it in. Lots of other rattles, squeaks and random things to fix as well. It is nice to finally be able to drive it around though.

 

Looks good.

 

No good shot of the grim reaper hood?! WTF?!

LOL! Looks great.

 

Hood was dusty.. lol

 

Just in case anyone ever needs this bit of info here it is... the 91 police interceptor dual output VSS for the 700R4 has a PPM of 4000.


Got my 3.73 gears and the posi diff installed this week along with the UMI LCA's and aluminum driveshaft. Pretty much down to needing an alignment before i can take it to the track. I really need to get some different springs in it though, it's sitting way too low.


I was able to open it up a little on the highway and was pretty impressed with how it's all working together. I'm at about 85% DC on the injectors at 6700 RPM running a mid 12 AFR. Now that i have a VSS input the tuning is going much better.


It'll be dyno time in just a couple weeks, i'll probably run it on the track as well but it'll be on street tires for now.