pm replied to

im not gonna lie lowered cars blow, one day i may put mine back to stock height if i ever get around to actually having it on the street again

 

I didn't want to go completely back to stock height... so i cut 1 coil off each front. They are finally installed (what a PITA). The spring compressor i rented let loose 6 times, thank god for the chain i had wrapped around the springs. It was actually the correct one for the job too.


Here is a spring pic, left is what was on my car, center is stock v6 minus 1 coil and right is stock v6.




I'll post pics as soon as i get it back on the ground.

 

no pics yet but it's at 27" after settling all day.. started off with around 25". The ground clearance looks MUCH better.

 

Ha, that's two cars that have had their altitude changed today...

You raised yours, I lowered mine.

 

It drives and rides much better now.

 

Same here.

 

263.1 whp @ 6500 and 263 wtq @ 3600. Has more in it but I was blowing a bit of white smoke past 4500 so we cut the session short. Vids soon...

 

Good #'s. Almsot 100hp/liter which seems to be a good aiming point now for n/a cars.

The 458 Italia makes 126hp/liter though. Thats alot for a n/a motor.

 

The same motor was making over 270 at the wheels in his other car and a single TB. Curious to see how this goes with the ITB's and tweaked.

What stall are you running? That will play with numbers as well.

 

thats pretty killer....now bring on the BOOOOOOOSSSSTTTT

 

Lol, no boost. I think I can get 280whp out of this combo. Which should equal mid to low 12's if I put the car on a diet.

3500 stall converter, and when it flashes the trans slips... Haha

 

Sissy!

 

Dave's afraid of boost.

 

I hope I land this asep sponsor....I am dying to get some cash to go hybrid and m90 my 3.4....esp now that its already setup for dis...well about to be, once I finish working out the kinks. Start giving the 12s fbody 60/6 guys a run for their money, lol.

 

lol. He does a good enough job tearing stuff up N/A

 

Video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxewiTeUMlk

 

Sounds pretty good.

Sounded like there was a little bog or hiccup just as the hammer went down for the pull.

 

that may have just been the camera taking a crap with the noise...i heard a few cut outs from the mic

 

i had to ease into it because the AE is still off. I posted the datalog over on v6z24 if you want to look at it.

At the 56 sec mark is where the 1st KR hit and it pulled 1/2 degree, it decayed to 0 then with no other knock counts it ramped up to another .7 degrees around the 59 sec mark and decayed back to 0, then again a few sec later.

I 0'd out the base coolant advance load correction table since it shows up as KR in the logs. Haven't taken the car back out yet to see if it still does it.

There is a puddle of trans fluid under it again so who knows what's wrong this time.... I'm really getting tired of this auto trans, almost enough to consider a 5 speed swap.

 

haha first a 5speed.....than a turbo....youll come to the dark side eventually

 

Knowing Dave, doubtful.

Dave the TB's definitely had a deeper tone, agree with Six on this one, almost a bog (lean?), but once the wheels were rolling, she was screaming.

 

i cant rember if u swaped to the th350 or that was somone else, but if ur runing the 700 crawl under the car and get ur hand ontop of the trans just behind the bellhousing and see if it is wet..

the 700 has a vent line that comes out there and if its wet its puking fluid threw the vent.

i had this same problem with my trans ,was a combination of being overfilled and overheated. trans cooler and proper fluid level helped fix it

 

That was Mars.

 

yea that automatic could be overfilled or have a leaking seal. i suggest a 5 speed manual would cure this.

 

I am Six_Shooter and I approve of this message.

 

I am Fallen2603, and I approve this message, too.

 

looks like i can get the newer T5 from a 3.8 4th gen for $300 - $500, most have near 100K on them though.


A T56 is pretty much out of the question, most are going for a grand+ around here.



I think for this year i'll put up with what i have. MFBA has the local track rented on October 2nd so i'll probably strip the car down to nothing but a dash and drivers seat and beat the hell out of it then. Still need to score some slicks or drag radials.

 

love the build man V6 Power

 

took most of the interior out today for some weight reduction.. shaved 178lbs and still have more to go.


I did find some rust, i'll have to break out the sandblaster to clean it up then weld in some new sheet metal pretty soon. I'll post pics tomorrow.

 

U gonna run the 1/4 soon or what ?

 

Is that 178 lbs, all interior weight o.O? I might actually be sub 3k if the interior stuff is that heavy.....my car started off at 3153, so I'm definitely in the ballpark of 3k.

 

Both pieces of carpet and all the padding. (except for the firewall pad) - 48 lbs
Headliner (what's left of it) - (didn't weigh)
passenger seat+ seat belt - 38 lbs
rear seat (all 3 pieces) and seat belts - 49lbs
Center console - 14lbs
Stereo, both 6x9's (3.5's are still in the dash) (didn't weigh)
Trim - 20 lbs
There was some other stuff too, that's just from memory... It's probably even closer to 200 lbs if you add in the spare tire, iron and jack.


I bet this car is around 2800 or so w/o me in it...

 

I wondered if the carpet weighed that much, sure seemed heavy but I figured the molded contour made it feel heavier due to making it more difficult to remove. Curious, how much you think the following is worth, weight reduction wise:
Basically completely gutted interior, EXCEPT the front seats and anything in front of them, ie. I still have door panels, center console, and still have my 6x9s, and aftermarket headunit replaced factory(aftermarket one seems lighter) and dash.(minus cracked dashpad), and carpet+padding is all gone as well.
-rear hatch struts
-hood hinges/struts, latch mechanism, cable release
-fiberglass hood, was bolt on, gutted substructure to utilize as full pin on
-IROC-Z rims(idk that they are any lighter than 14 steels, seems about the same..)
-AC compressor, radiator, and accumulator, EGR delete, headers, aftermarket exhaust
Think its safe to say I'm down to 3k or real close, starting with a 3153 lb car?

 

Gotta decide on some drag tires this week...


Down to 2 choices...

1. Use my spare IROC wheels and mount on a set of M/T 255.50.16 Drag Radials

2. Find some 15" wheels and get some regular slicks




I've been burned by drag radials in the past, the BFG's on my old J-body were worthless but people seem to have good luck with the M/T's on this platform...

What do you guys think?

 

get some 15" wheels and put a 26 or 28x9x15 slick on them.

i originally used to run a hoosier 26x9x15 slick on my car till i switched to a 28x10x15w but those would be overkill for ur build unless u plan on adding some nitrous or boost

 

I did fine with the BFG Drag Radial T/A, 235/60-15.

I never ran a 16 inch variant. I did the old 15 inch M&H Racemasters, too.

 

I don't remember if I posted about it but i had a shop install the Richmond 3.73's and the posi diff a while back and it whined like hell. The shop said to put some miles on it and see if it got any better, it got much worse. (you can hear it in the dyno video)


I finally dropped it back off to them Monday and got an interesting call today. Apparently the guy who did the swap completely screwed it up and the ring and pinion are destroyed. The shop is going to buy me a brand new set of 3.73's and get it all set up correctly this time. I have a feeling from our conversation that a guy might have gotten fired over this.. haha



I also got hosed on a pair of slicks from a local guy that turned out to be 2 different sizes.

September hasn't been a good month so far... We'll see if it gets any better when i hook up the new Holley 950 Commander and re-tune the car from scratch.

 

once a ring and pinion is setup and run thats it , if the mesh is wrong it ruins the gearset. some ppl will try to shim the pinion and carrier to get it right after that point but it will always make noise.

atleast the guy u spoke with isnt trying to do that to u if it makes any noise this time take it right back, and i mean if u notice it within a few blocks of leaving the place, any further then that and it would ruin the next set


also expect a tiny bit of noise from aftermarket gears lots of times the richmonds and motive gear gear sets will have a tiny bit of whine

 

There is no interior in the car which made it sound a bit worse but imagine a tornado siren going off about 5' behind your head.

 

I'm guessing you have no hood insulation too.

 

Who has hood insulation? lol

 

There is still a layer of oil/grease on the underside of the hood from the old 327, does that count?

 

Car is back with the rebuilt rear end, all is well again.



Of course it tried to overheat on the way home from the shop, i must have a crappy ground somewhere because the cooling fan didn't want to turn on and the override switch just shut off the interior lights.. haha


It seems to have fixed itself now, i checked all the grounds anyways and they were all good so who knows...


Just waiting on the Commander now so i can get back to work on it.

 

Well, i shook it down pretty well at the track today and found quite a few bugs.

The worst is that my wideband fowled out and since i use the NB sim to feed my ECM it was getting a lean signal and running way rich. I was trapping at best 98, should be around 110.

My 700R4 was also acting up which is no surprise.


I do have datalogs, videos and a picture, i'll post them when i can.

Best run of the day was a 14.1 @ 96 IIRC.. had a 1.9 60' on street tires which was cool i guess. Pretty disappointed but it was the first time it's seen the track.


There is a lot more in this thing, not sure when i'll get back to the track but hopefully soon.

 

Pic..




Datalog... you can see how a bad wideband o2 can really **** off the ecm.. lol

http://www.sdsgarage.com/Misc/Camaro...og-BadWBo2.xls


Moral of the story, never use it as your primary o2. Always add a 2nd bung and run a standard sensor for the ECM.

 

Your transmission seems to be a real headache! You may need to pick up another at the wrecking yard and build it up with some HD hardware.

I think it did great on its first run! Now, when you get your tuning done, you'll have a really respectable setup!

Good job!

 

4L60E.

Better yet, manual.

Why wouldn't you flip it to open loop?

 

as awesome as this build is, i think 110mph is a lofty goal. i think 105 is more likely. with a well setup car, 105 mph is good for 12.6x's or so though, which is still stupidly respecatable for the setup! good job doing something different and against the flow! i'm a huge fan of odd N/A setups, and this definitely fits the bill

 

thanks guys.



Six, i did flip it over to open loop for the last couple runs and was tuning by feel/trap speed which is where the best run came out of.


Trans is perfectly smooth through 1st and 2nd, once it shifts to third there is a very noticeable vibration. It's also 2-3 shifting on it's own at around 4500 RPM which was really hurting the times. I need to do something about that ASAP.


I'm picking up a new wideband today and going to sort through the tuning bugs, there is another track rental next Saturday. I hope to get back there and at least get some 13's out of it.

 

Thanks to the warm weather I'm back to work on the car...

New exhaust is going on, just waiting on some more parts from Summit (V bands & some other stuff) to wrap it up. 2.25" TD's, X pipe, pair of Aerochambers. Added in a crankcase evac system, slashcuts are after the X pipe. Wideband o2 is in the center of the X pipe to get a good signal. It's fairly symmetrical, had to try to leave clearance to get to the trans pan bolts and stay away from the main fuel line at the same time. Should be done in a week or 2 depending on the weather.





Relocating the alternator, swapping to a smaller PS pump (or going to manual steering depending on how things work out). Relocated the coils/ICM to the firewall, rebuilding the wiring harness. Relocated the fuel filter up to the hard tank line to get it away from the DS side muffler. Probably some other stuff that i'm forgetting as well.


Here is the filter and bracket relocated up to by the tank.






More progress soon..