Alright guys here the low down.... n the car was in an accident got body damage repaired then it sat for awhile(til i came home, Moms car) When I got home it would run for about 20 minutes then die out........... and wouldn't restart. So far I have changed the dizzy(corroded to hell),knock sensor(set a code 43), EGR valve(was leaking), ECM( for the code 43),Fuel pump,timing chain, MAP,TPS,IAC sensor. It will crank hit the continue cranking......I checked the fuel pressure it's sitting right at 46 psi, checked the TPS voltage it's right at 0.36 volts. I am outta options here Please help. I am trying to get it running so my mom can enjoy her little V-6 hotrod. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

Check for a code 46... Or any other code, for that matter. And make sure that the 2-wire cable between the coil and the dizzy module isn't broken. Check all of the grounds on the backs of the cylinder heads as well.

:edit: And the TPS voltage is low... Should be a minimum of .45 VDC.

 

okay i'll check all that tomorrow... I was going off what the hanes manual said it said TPS voltage should be .35 to .5. Maybe they are wrong... Anyways how would i go about adjust the voltage on the TPS??? It doesnt seem as adjustable as my Trans am's is. Last i checked there were no codes..... it just blinks the 12 everything is fine code.

 

Well, let me put it this way. The troubleshooting section of the Haynes is useful as firestarter, nothing more. About the only thing the Haynes is good for is basic teardown info and torque specs. The wiring diagrams, for the most part, are incomplete (and the one for the 2.8 is WRONG), the sensor and trouble code info is incomplete and in some cases wrong, and there is some stuff missing.

Anyways, the spec for the TPS is less than .92VDC. That's all. But the spec for the older models is between .45 and .65VDC (should be around .55). And no, the TPS on the 90-92 cars is supposed to be non-adjustable, so you just go ahead and replace it. The ECM is supposed to adjust to whatever the base voltage of the TPS is when the engine starts. If it doesn't, then you may need to elongate the holes in the TPS to look kind of like bananas so you can adjust the voltage accordingly.

 

Okay so today I went and changed the ignition coil.....got a real weak spark out of the old one. Still nadda checked to see if I was getting fire to the dizzy and got nadda there either. So i replaced the plug wires and now I got spark but it's giving indications that it isn't getting fuel so I am like WTF mate. My step dad is thinking it's the damn key reader in the lock cylinder... but I am wondering is there any way to get rid of the VATS system ???? Cause if that turns out to be the problem then that will have been twice now in 2 years that we have had to change it ....

 

To confirm a VATS problem, check for a code 46 out of the ECM. Could also be a ground problem or ECM failure.

 

think we have the problem figured out.. my stepdad ordered the wrong fuel pump got one for a TBI car....

 

it sounds like the icm is bad(ignition control module)50$ when they get warm they short out,mine was doin it,does it restart when cool?if so its icm

 

it wont restart at all

 

As I stated before, check the ECM for a code 46. VATS kills both the fuel injection and the starter, so nothing would happen if there is a VATS error.

:edit: And to get rid of VATS, you need to either buy a bypass box or either reprogram or have the MEMCAL reprogrammed to turn VATS off.

 

it turns over just wont start

 

Did you check the ECM for a code 46 yet? It's possible that there is a problem with the VATS circuit in the ECM or somewhere between the VATS module and the ECM. That crank, hit, crank, crank is what mine was doing when I had to deal with the code 46.

 

I tried everything for a code 46. i replaced the knock sensor and the ECM as well as a bunch of other stuff. Think the ECm needs to be reprogrammed.... But unsure.

 

So did you ever change that TBI pump out for the correct pump? Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? If the pump turns on then it's not VATS.

Also, why did you change the pump in the first place? How did you know it was bad?

 

Umm, Tom, code 46 disables the FUEL INJECTORS, not the fuel pump.

And OP, you may have fixed your code 43, but you haven't done anything to work on a possible code 46... Code 43 is EST (spark timing), not VATS (starter and fuel injector anti-theft disable).

 

its not VATS, hes getting the starter to crank the engine. Vats wont you even turn the motor since it kills power to the injectors and starter. in his posts he says its running for about 20 mins then dies. Sound like your Ignition Control module in the distributor is getting hot and shutting off. then not even starting at all had the same problem in my 3.1!

The ICM is inside the distributor and has 2 connectors to it and its black. when you pull it it off look where it attaches to the distributor cap base plate. their should be a rubbery cement paste. if its the original like mine was, then its all dried up and burned off. The paste helps the ICM dissipate heat to the distributor plate so it doesnt overheat and burn up.

When you take it off take it to a local autostore that tests electrical components such as starters and alternators. Autozone does it for a fact. althought mine did pass all tests, my buddy hooked me up with a new one for free since his buddy had the same issue and did a swap out.

ALSO off the top of my head, did you change out the rotor? mine was only a month old and gave me all kinds of problems with a no start issue.

 

Got it running now.............. come to find out the dizzy was off by alot............

 

thanks for all the help and info guys............

 

i have a r s with a 3.1 getting code 43 also have had to replace plugs because they have filed out twice because it is getting to much fuel what can i do to fix it

 

Code 43 is for the Electronic spark control. try swapping it out. That should take care of your fouling problem since your not getting enough spark to fully ignite the fuel.

 

Um, what?

Yes, 43 is ESC. It has nothing to do with the quality of the spark, only when the spark is fired.

wildman, when you change the plugs again, before you start the engine, leave a plug laying against something metal and check for a bright white spark. Any other color requires replacement of the ignition coil.

After that, you can pull the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator (the round thing on the fuel rail) out of the throttle body and smell for gas. Other than that, you would need a fuel pressure gauge.

 

i have changed coil dizzy modal plugs plugs plug wire knock sensor and a bunch of other stuff
still the plugs fuel foul
any help please

 

Again, you need to pull a spark plug and note the color of the spark. If the spark isn't bright white, there are other issues that need to be addressed.

And also check for fuel leaking out of the pressure regulator. If you don't find any, your next course of action is to get a fuel pressure gauge.

You have either too much fuel or not enough spark. And if most of the ignition is new, the problem could be due to low power available to the coil.