I have an 86 camaro, v6, without power door locks and windows. I want both of these in my car, but i have a few questions. I recently bought a door lock kit (yes, an aftermarket one) that works without a switch. you turn the key, and it locks and unlocks both doors, and you can hook up a secutiry system up to it, for keyless entry. (Which is what im doing) I want to know if theres anyway to hook up a door lock-unlock switch to this.
Also, I want to have power windows. I want to buy them new as well, because i know that if i buy them at a junkyard, i would have problems with it, and they would be slower. I want to know how hard it is to hook up the motor to the window, and how much this will run me $$?

------------------
1986 Camaro Sport Coupe MPFI V6
Current Mods: 2K&N Air Filters, ACDelco Rapidfires, new distributor cap and rotor.
"I always get compliments on how pretty my backend is..."

 

Where'd you get that door lock kit? Sounds pretty cool.

As for the windows, Summit sells an aftermarket universal type kit, so I'd say check with them.

-Reno

 

I got the door locks off of ebay for 56 bucks. That includes shipping. They come with al lthe wiring, the 2 actuaators, instructions customized to your vehicle, and relays to hook up keyless entry. i thought it was a pretty good deal. It's the same set-up they put on the volvos, without the switches. I want to have the switches, but i want to know if thats possible.

------------------
1986 Camaro Sport Coupe MPFI V6
Current Mods: 2K&N Air Filters, ACDelco Rapidfires, new distributor cap and rotor.
"I always get compliments on how pretty my backend is..."

 

Hehe....awww, power windows...the memories they bring back of Summer '00

This swap is NOT for the faint of heart. 1st off, you will need not only motors but regulators. New motors are about $45 each through Auto Zone, and I used the regulators out of the parts car. Here's a list of what you'll need:

1) 2 power window motors (boneyard ones may be OK...my passenger side one is an original and works fine...I did get to test it before I bought it though.)

2) Regulators. Boneyard ones are fine

3) Door hardware. When you grab the boneyard regulators, grab any and all door hardware (brackets, etc.)

4) Wire. I used 16 gague Radio Shack wire, about $8 per loom...needed 1 loom (I think)

5) Switches. New GM switches are $10 each. Boneyard ones are fine, but 99% of them will have the logos completely worn off. I'm **** enough to want the logos

6) Covers for the holes the absence of the window cranks will leave in the door panels. I got creative and ordered 2 '82-'92 15" rim center cap logos with "camaro" written in the center. They look factory with a light grey interior like mine!! (Caps are black with silver logo).
6) You need to know how to wire it up. Plugging it into an empty are on your fuse panel is fine. Your problem is that you don't have power locks, so you don't have the rubber boots attached to your doors to run the wires through You'll need those too (I already had power locks).

If you have any questions about anything above, feel free to post them or email me...I may be forgetting something. May I remind you though that this is NOT for a novice. Getting the junkyard motors off the regulators is evil!! Having someone hold the window all the way up while you slide the motor/regulator combo into the door is PURE evil. You will get tired. The person holding the window will get tired. You will throw things and swear more than you ever have in your life. Expect to take about 2 full days to do this unless you're Tom P

But in the end, being able to hit that button and watch the window roll down makes it all worth it

 

Just a tip on holding windows up while replacing/adding a power window motor....

Remove door panel.

Take 2 needle nose vise grips and clamp the window lightly with a rag between the jaws and the glass.

Put the grips as close to the bottom of the glass as possible so they rest against the rubber seal. One at the rear of the door on the outer seal, and the other on top of the "triangle" seal at the front of the door.

This will keep the window from falling and make this a one man job.

It sounds dangerous but I do it all the time and I haven't lost a window yet...(knock on wood)

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited December 20, 2000).]

 

Engineboy,

The loss of a window was the exact reason why I didn't try that LOL. But if it works as well as you say, if/when my passenger window motor conks out, I'll use your method. Nothing is worse than trying to keep the person holding the heavy window entertained while you struggle to get the regulator/motor in place

 

It works really well.

The key is not to have the clamps too tight. It just barely needs to hold the window.

The reason I use needle nose is so that the "clamping" portion of the grips is a large,flat surface, not a small area like the ends of regular vise grips.

Trust me though, every time that vise grip "snaps" into place I get weak. LOL

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited December 21, 2000).]

 

Thanks guys, I dont plan on doing it now, but probably after the first of the year. Im gonna clear the stuff out of my other garage to put my car in, and once its in, i will start on that. If I have any questions, I will put up another post later on.

------------------
1986 Camaro Sport Coupe MPFI V6
Current Mods: 2K&N Air Filters, ACDelco Rapidfires, new distributor cap and rotor.
"I always get compliments on how pretty my backend is..."

 

Engineboy, thanks for that window tip; I'll have to remember it! Last I played with my motors, both doors were off the car and on the ground.

My dad's truck was easy to do; he had the door frame above the window. We just duct-taped the window to the top of the door. His regulator was also 1/3 the size & weight of ours- but his window was smaller. Fun fact- the motor for his small window looked like ours for our big windows- no wonder our windows go up slowly.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

When my motor went i payed 150 bucks including the motor and labor to have it put in i didnt wana mess with it and like a week after i got one done it seems like my passangerside is lagging ALLOT but it hasent gone yet and hopefuly it wont.. Do they make high speed window motors for our cars lol . my friends windstar the wondows take almst a second to go down i swear its liek you turn your head and its down

 

There are devices that can double voltage (at the sake of current); for instance, you feed it 12 volts and you get 24 volts. It occurred to me that might be an idea to speed the motors up. The problem is, how fast would that burn the motors out?


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!